Musk smell. LaParfumerie
Musk is one of the most mysterious ingredients in perfumery. It gives the fragrance sensuality, spaciousness, warmth and liveliness. So what is muscle?
Musk - this is a strongly smelling substance produced by the glands of some animals (musk deer, muskrat, musky duck) or obtained from some plants and used in perfumery (ennobling and fixing effect). word stress Musk falls on the 1st syllable, on the first letter y.
What is musk
Women like the musky fragrance, it can suppress the will of men. Musk natural or artificial (synthetic) substance with a tart and exciting smell.
It is produced by the glands of some animals and can also be found in the roots of some plants. The substance is considered one of the most expensive components in perfumery.
Emperor Henry III himself used this substance and forced his subjects to use it as a perfume. The natural smell, reminiscent of musk, Alexander the Great attracted the attention of many women. Musk was used not only in perfumery, but also in medicine. For example, in ancient China they were filmed headache, treated for migraines and snake bites.
Musk translated from Latin as scrotum, testicle. It is extracted from the gonads of the male musk deer, beaver, desman and musky duck.
It is this substance that is the main component of love potions. During the mating season, there is a pouch on the belly of the animal, which in an active state contains a dark yellow granular liquid musk. To get it earlier, you had to kill animals. With the mass destruction of the musk deer, it led to their almost complete extermination. And after they were listed in the Red Book, musk deer farms began to open. In modern times, the animal is euthanized during the mating season and the musky sacs are scraped out of them.
In 1888, perfumers replaced natural musk with synthetic musk, which is much cheaper. It was used as an additive to the main aromatic component. But after a while it turned out that artificial musk was toxic and dangerous to human health. After that, its composition was slightly changed.
Perfume and eau de toilette with musk
The main advantage of perfumery with musk is the DURABILITY of the aroma and the magical effect on others. The artificial component was included, for example, in the composition of well-known perfumes "Chanel No. 5" and .
Chanel №5 eau de parfum >>Buy >>
"Lair du Temps" by Nina Ricci Buy >>
Line of unsurpassed aromas with musk: Montal musk
Montale Roses fragrance Musk - rose and musk, Black Musk Montale - a unisex fragrance for both men and women, it belongs to the Oriental Spicy group, launched in 2007 by perfumer Pierre Montale. Montale Intense Roses Musk - rose, jasmine, musk and amber, fragrance of 2015. The same in gold, Amber, Jasmine, Musk, Rose.
Vegetable musk is obtained from the seeds of a plant belonging to the genus Hibiscus.
It is very thick and pure and serves as an excellent substitute for animal musk, extracted from the glands of the musk deer. Compared to animal, vegetable has a weaker flavor. Before use, the substance is subjected to special treatment.
Animal musk is very expensive, so it is rarely used in perfumery. It is not replaceable in medicine. It is used to treat impotence, nervous system and skin diseases. Musk is believed to help in the early stages of cancer.
It rejuvenates the skin and smoothes wrinkles, and when massaged, it relaxes and has an anti-inflammatory effect. Well, where without it?
So natural musk or artificial, animal or vegetable - this is a real love potion for men.
One of the most common perfume components is, along with ambergris, musk. Most modern fragrances have not used natural musk for a long time because of its high cost, but at the same time, the “base” of almost every perfume composition contains the name of this component. Perhaps, only in selective perfumery can one still “meet” natural musk, which has the most valuable perfumery properties: it has an ennobling and fixing effect on the aroma, and also serves as a natural pheromone and a powerful aphrodisiac.
Animal musk of natural origin is a specific product that is produced by the musk glands of males of some mammal species, such as deer - musk deer, desman, civet, muskrat, musk ox and some others. In animals, this substance acts as a special signal with which males "mark" the territory, attracting females and warning other males. And in waterfowl mammals, this greasy substance also serves as a means to protect the coat from getting wet. Such a prosaic substance, but, nevertheless, the price for it is incredibly high.
The history of the use of musk in perfumery is not very humane: the main source of this substance was the glands of a deer - musk deer, but for that. to get just 1 kilogram of this specific ingredient, hunters killed up to 40 individuals. This led to a sharp decline in the deer population, and could completely lead to the extinction of this species, but in 1979 hunting for this species was prohibited.
But people did not want to give up this component, which gives perfume a special depth, warmth and sensuality. And on an industrial scale, synthetic musk began to be produced - a substance based on nitroglycerin. However, soon the "musk" from nitroglycerin was banned, as its toxicity was proven. By the way, it is “nitroglycerin musk” or Musk Ketone that is included in the original version of the legendary Chanel No.5 perfume, created by Ernest Beaux. In this fragrance, almost a tenth of the entire composition falls on synthetic musk.
Currently, in most perfume compositions there are various types of synthetic musk, harmless to humans and the environment. For example, the famous Tresor by Lancome, which was created by Sophia Groysmann, includes an artificially synthesized musk called Galaxolide.
At the same time, chemists and scientists - naturalists have learned how to extract ... vegetable musk, which is produced from galbanum and practically does not differ from the animal, only less harsh and not so exciting, while retaining the main quality that was valued in animal musk - warmth and sensual softness .
A special kind of musk is white musk. Contrary to popular belief, white musk is called so not because of its color, but because of a cleaner and fresher aroma, comparable to the delicate smell of clean baby skin.
Unlike ordinary musk, which is mainly used in sensual evening fragrances, white musk is appropriate in perfume compositions intended for everyday "wearing" - to work, for a walk or a casual meeting with friends, even to the office. White musk is more refined, more neutral, it is less sexy and hot, but its sound is much more elegant and sophisticated.
Selective perfumery offers a huge selection of fragrances with a note of white musk. At the same time, it is important to know that white musk, like ordinary musk, is used in both male and female compositions, but it sounds differently in them: it adds confidence and brutality, sexual attractiveness to men, and makes women more tender and sensual. .
M. Micallef offers a whole collection of white musk fragrances: created by Martine Macalef and Geoffrey Newman, a fruity-citrus-musky fragrance for women ananda, and then a floral fragrance Ananda Parfum; chic perfume for chic women - Art Collection Ananda, woody spicy aroma automne, flawless and perfect perfume - Black Ananda, Rare in beauty and richness perfume Crystal Woman No. 11, spicy and warming - Hiver, carefree, light and charming - Lucky Charm, elegant and classic - note vanilla, passionate and deep watch, inspiring and dreamy White Wings.
A great connoisseur of white musk is and Montale, offering all its fans to enjoy the soft and seductive warmth of this amazing perfume ingredient :Aoud Blossom- oriental citrus perfume; aroma of flowers and fruits - fruits of the Musk, striking in its sound oriental - spicy Ginger Musk, sexy and luxurious Musk to Musk, floral-fruity gem - perfume pure gold, bright and sunny - Soleil de Capri, and finally, the quintessence of white musk - an enchanting perfume White Musk.
White musk gives a unique sound to many fragrances, and in all compositions it sounds differently, leaving a warm, enveloping and dizzying smell of something close and tender on the body and clothes. Judge for yourself: you will find white musk in such dissimilar fragrances as a majestic and mysterious feminine fragrance D`Orsay L" Intrigante; bold and daring, dedicated to Alexander the Great, chypre men's fragrance Parfum d'Empire Iskander; defiantly beautiful and immodest feminine fragrance Technique Indiscrete Indiscrete; divinely harmonious and idyllic perfume from the legendary Guerlains - Guerlain Idylle; a delightful, strong and masculine perfume Frederic Malle French Lover; heavenly and relaxing peaceful perfume Feel Good Woman by Sergio Tacchini; fragrance for unconquered and free women - Angel Schlesser Esprit de Gingembre for Women; refined, velvety and infinitely sensual - Roja Parfums Enslaved Parfum; charm, mystery, seductive mystery - this is Christian Dior Escale a Portofino; complex, luxurious, but dynamic perfume Amouage Dia Woman, and many others - just listing all the fragrances with this note would take several hours.
Musk is one of the most expensive ingredients in perfumery. It is difficult to say exactly when a substance extracted from deer glands was first added to perfume. The bearer of musk, in the classical sense of the name, is the musk deer. This hornless deer lives in Siberia and Northern Mongolia. The gonads of the male produce a substance resembling honey, of a reddish hue. Over time, the musk hardens and turns black.Until the middle of the 19th century, only musk of animal origin was used in perfumery, until vegetable musk was discovered in 1888. Similar in smell, but extracted in a more humane way from plants or artificially created substances are used to this day.
Just imagine, to obtain 1 kg of musky substance, 140 deer had to be killed. That is why now the extraction of animal musk is under the strict control of various international organizations for the protection of animals.
What does musk smell like?
Each person hears this component differently. To some it smells like soap, to another it smells like a soft iridescent milk haze, and to another it smells like a hard animalic with a woody tint. With a complex, multifaceted aroma, musk is a bit like the smell of clean skin, angelica root and hibiscus seeds.
Musk in perfumery
Musk can be found in the base notes of many fragrances and is a powerful fixative. It can easily decorate a rich oriental or fresh floral or fruity scent. I will not review these editions, but rather tell about the compositions in which this component is the leading violin.
Musk fragrances by Narciso Rodriguez
In just seven years, an American perfumer Narciso Rodriguez released more than a dozen musky compositions. Having become a recognized specialist in this direction, he conquered many with his very first edition. Narciso Rodriguez For Her. Sweetish-musky shades create a feminine and sexy pyramid that does not leave anyone indifferent. Here, appearing through the sharp and aggressive top notes, gentle, thick and sweet shades turn into soft balsamic undertones.
Not to mention perfume Narciso Rodriguez For Her Musk where musk performs accompanied by ylang-ylang, jasmine and orange blossom. Another woman comes to mind For Her Musc Intense and male For Him Musk. There is also Narciso Rodriguez Musc for Her where musk opens up against a backdrop of orange blossom and osmanthus.
The pair edition is also interesting. Essence and Essence Eau de Musc. This pure yet dominant scent is truly long-lasting and sensual. The pink and iris duo adds a femininity to the edition for the beautiful half. Essence Eau de Musc very similar to his pair, but here the iris becomes more pronounced.
Cacharel Noa
A clean, delicate, classic & feminine fragrance. The composition is modest, restrained and feminine, surrounded by a transparent haze. Powdery floral notes and sweet woody undertones show through the musky veil.
M. Micallef Royal Muska
A mixture of musky and floral shades that captivates from the first breath, barely noticeable, but forever. The perfume melody mixes with the scent of the skin and forms a special intimate harmony. A truly royal fragrance, where musk and rose complement each other, creating the perfect combination.
Montale Musk Fragrances
Montal distinguished himself with a special love for musk, releasing a whole series of musks. These are ginger Musk, and pink-musky Roses Musk, oriental Aoud Musk and fruity-strawberry Fruits of the Musk, as well as pomegranate-floral Dew Musk (pomegranate, ylang-ylang, patchouli).
Tom Ford Musk Collection
After experimenting with vanilla, tobacco and vetiver, Tom Ford decided to move on to musk. Last year, four musky-based fragrances appeared at once.
For a designer, a true musky fragrance doesn't have to be pretentious or heavy. Inhaling musk is like inhaling the scent of naked skin. The collection features a floral-musky Jasmine Musk, Urban Musk with slightly more pronounced animalistic notes, pure creamy Musk Pure and White Suede, a fragrance that combines notes of musk and leather.
Also you can try Amouage Gold for her, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Fraicheur Muskissime, I ncense & Musk Henri Bendel and many others.
Musk is one of the most used ingredients in perfumery. He gave the name to a whole family of fragrances. Musk is a sensual, warm, sweet, powdery, leathery-woody, spicy scent. In addition, the ingredient makes the composition resistant. fashion time I learned what musk is and why else it is needed.
animal musk
The word "musk" comes from Latin, where it came from Sanskrit. "Muskus" means - pardon - "testicle" or "scrotum". In fact, everything is not so intimate, although physiological details are indispensable. But we are all looking "Doctor House", we are not surprised. So, the musky secret is produced by the glands of males of some animals (deer, musk deer, roe deer, musk ox, beaver, desman). Musk glands are not at all what our ancestors thought, but an internal “pouch” located between the hind legs / legs of the animal.
Outwardly, the muscle looks like buckwheat honey, only smells not so sweet at all. Quite the opposite - the smell of musk is sharp and strong. Otherwise it can not be. After all, males need this substance to mark their territory and flirt with females. The composition of musk is multicomponent. We are only interested in one, the most important ingredient, the macrocyclic ketone muscone. It is he who gives the animal secret flavor.
Until 1979, for the sake of extracting musk, animals (most often it was a musk deer living in Tibet, the Himalayas, Korea and Sakhalin Island) were killed. For the sake of one kilogram of perfume fixative, up to fifty deer had to be exterminated.
In the 80s, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Fauna and Flora took the musk deer under its protection. Now they are listed in the Red Book and nothing threatens them. And in the middle of the twentieth century, farms for growing these animals appeared in Saudi Arabia. Musk is mined there without killing or injuring anyone.
vegetable musk
However, the most commonly used musk in perfumery today is vegetable or synthetic musk. The first is extracted from galbanum, angelica and angelica roots, hibiscus seeds and ambrette. This vegetable musk has a fresh green aroma.
Synthetic musk
Nitroglycerine musk was invented Albert Bayer in 1888. The chemist named it modestly - musk bayer - in his honor. Then several more types of synthetic musk were obtained. So, musk ketone was used by a perfumer Ernest Bo (Ernest Beaux), and ambrette musk is part of the perfume composition L'air du Temps from Nina Ricci.
Almost a hundred years later, nitroglycerin musks were recognized as toxic and harmful to the environment due to their low ability to decompose and banned. Therefore, the harmful ingredient in already released perfumes had to be replaced, since work in this direction was in full swing.
In 1951, Fantolide was introduced, the first of a long list of multi-core musks. The sweet woody galaxolide can be found in Lancome Tresor.
Finally, synthetic macrocyclic musks, they are also called “white”, were noted in the field of aromas. Nirvanolide is used in Elizabeth Arden, and gabanolide - in Emporio Armani.
Seven musky fragrances worth trying on
This is an upgrade of the classic musk oil fragrance, the "oil of love", created in 1963. Top notes: bergamot & orange blossom. Base: rose, neroli, ylang-ylang, lily. Loop: patchouli, tonka bean, musk.
The chypre fragrance is dedicated to the Mongol Khan Kublai. Top notes are civet, labdanum, and castroneum. Heart: ambergris, ambrette seeds, cumin, Moroccan rose. Base: cactus root and patchouli.
French fashion house Nina Ricci one of the first to conquer America, so their perfume had to survive short-term fashion trends. So in 1948 appeared L'air du Temps. Innovative floral-spicy composition created Francis Fabron. Top notes are gardenia & jasmine. Heart notes: carnation and rose. Base notes: musk, iris, chrysanthemum, sandalwood.
Niche brand creative director Byredo Ben Gorham (Gorham) and perfumer Jerome Epinette came up with this fragrance for Ben's girlfriend. But all the other girls fell in love with him too. Aldehydes, rose and Madagascar pink pepper are heard at the beginning. The heart is a bouquet of peonies, violets and jasmine. The base is woody notes and musk.
A woody-oriental fragrance dedicated to the beauties of the Ancient East. The composition is appropriate. Top notes are verbena, bergamot & grapefruit. Heart notes: cedar and guaiac wood. Base: musk and Indian sandalwood.
Musk is one of my favorite notes Tom Ford. It is no coincidence that a whole collection of fragrances is dedicated to him. White Musk Collection. It included Urban Musk,Jasmin Musk,White Suede and Musk Pure created in 2009. Top notes: pepper, bergamot, ylang-ylang, pepper. Heart: jasmine sambac, violet root, lily of the valley. Base notes: musk, benzoin, tonka bean, beeswax.
A floral fruity fragrance created by my daughter Carolina Herrera (Carolina Herrera).Caroline Jr. wanted to reflect the spirit of Manhattan in it. Top notes: mandarin, bergamot, orange blossom. Heart notes: camellia, gardenia, lily. Base notes: sandalwood and musk.
Musk is the name originally given to a deep-smelling substance derived from the glands of the male musk deer (musk deer). This substance has been used as a popular perfume fixative since ancient times, and is one of the most expensive animal products in the world. The name "musk" refers to a wide range of substances that have a similar smell, although many of them have completely different chemical structures.
Musk has a unique ability to balance the perfume composition. It gives the spirits a special languor and sensibility. When heated, it enhances all the components of the aroma.
Among all the fragrances in the world, musk is one of the most attractive scents for women. Its ability to magnetically influence the weaker sex and suppress the will of men was known even by the ancient Arabs and Jews, who used the miraculous qualities of the substance even in the time of Moses.
According to historians, the great commander Alexander the Great enjoyed increased popularity among women, not only because he was handsome and rich, but also because his natural smell resembled that of musk. Musk served as the main component of love potions and was an integral part of love magic.
Sources of musk include the secretory secretions of animals such as musk deer, desman, muskrat, musk duck, musk turtle, musk beetle, some species of crocodiles, members of the cat family and artiodactyls.
In animals, this substance acts as a special signal with which males "mark" the territory, attracting females and warning other males.
Musk deer lives in India, Pakistan, Tibet, China, Siberia and Mongolia.
To obtain musk, a deer is killed and its musk gland is removed. After drying, the reddish-brown paste found in the gland turns into a black granular material, which is called musky grains. They insist on alcohol. The tincture acquires a pleasant smell only after it is thoroughly filtered. No other natural substance has such a complex flavor that has received such conflicting descriptions. Most often this smell is described abstractly as "animal", "earthy" or "woody", the smell of clean skin.
Until the end of the 19th century, only natural musk was used in perfumery.
Because deer gland musk requires the killing of endangered animals, almost all musky fragrances used in perfumery today are synthetically produced.
Organic component, mainly responsible for characteristics the smell of musk is called muscone.
A special variety of musk is white musk, which exudes a clean and fresh scent, comparable to the delicate scent of clean baby skin.
Unlike ordinary musk, which is mainly used in sensual evening fragrances, white musk is appropriate in perfume compositions intended for everyday "wearing" - to work, for a walk or a casual meeting with friends, even to the office. White musk is more refined, more neutral, it is less sexy and hot, but its sound is much more elegant and sophisticated.
Selective perfumery offers a huge selection of fragrances with a note of white musk. At the same time, it is important to know that white musk, like ordinary musk, is used in both male and female compositions, but it sounds differently in them: it adds confidence and brutality, sexual attractiveness to men, and makes women more tender and sensual. .
M. Micallef offers a whole collection of fragrances with a note of white musk: created by Martine Macalef and Geoffrey Newman, the feminine fruity-citrus-musky fragrance Ananda, and then the floral fragrance Ananda Parfum; chic perfume for chic women - Art Collection Ananda, woody-spicy aroma Automne, impeccable and perfect perfume - Black Ananda, rare in beauty and richness perfume Crystal Woman No. 11, spicy and warming - Hiver, carefree, light and charming - Lucky Charm, elegant and classic - Note Vanillee, passionate and deep - Watch, inspiring and dreamy - White Wings.
Montale is also a great connoisseur of white musk, offering all its fans to enjoy the soft and seductive warmth of this amazing perfume ingredient: Aoud Blossom - an oriental citrus perfume; the fragrance of flowers and fruits - Fruits of the Musk, striking in its sounding oriental-spicy Ginger Musk, sexy and luxurious - Musk to Musk, floral-fruity jewel - Pure Gold perfume, bright and sunny - Soleil De Capri, and, finally, quintessence white musk - the bewitching White Musk perfume.
White musk gives a unique sound to many fragrances, and in all compositions it sounds differently, leaving a warm, enveloping scent on the body and clothes. and dizzy the smell of something close and tender. You will find white musk in such dissimilar fragrances as the majestic and mysterious feminine fragrance D`Orsay L "Intrigante; bold and daring, dedicated to Alexander the Great, chypre masculine fragrance Parfum d' Empire Iskander; defiantly beautiful and immodest feminine fragrance Technique Indiscrete Indiscrete; divinely harmonious and idyllic perfume from the legendary Guerlains - Guerlain Idylle; delightful, strong and masculine perfume Frederic Malle French Lover; heavenly and relaxing peaceful perfume Feel Good Woman from Sergio Tacchini; fragrance for unconquered and free women - Angel Schlesser Esprit de Gingembre for Women; refined, velvety and endlessly sensual - Roja Parfums Enslaved Parfum; charm, mystery, seductive mystery - this is Christian Dior Escale a Portofino; complex, luxurious, but dynamic perfume Amouage Dia Woman, and many others.
In the middle of the 20th century, musk deer farms were first opened in Saudi Arabia. The essence of collecting musk is to euthanize the animal with drugs that are safe for health, and after inserting the catheter into the gland on the abdomen, the substance is taken by mechanical extrusion (decanting).
Before using musk in perfumery, it is subjected to a special treatment, removing sharpness and unnecessary substances (protein, fats, and so on). Modern perfumers use musk to fix subtle notes and give the fragrance sensuality, warmth and increase sexual desire. Animal musk in the 21st century is used very rarely and only to create expensive niche fragrances. The cost of a unique black musk of the highest quality, according to some sources, is from 50 US dollars per 1 gram.
Some plants, such as angelica (Angelica archangelica), nutmeg (Abelmoschus moschatus), musk flower (Mimulus moschatus), argoleaf olearia (Olearia argophyla) produce substances with musky smell. These components are widely used in perfumery instead of animal musk, or as a substitute for a mixture of other musks.
These well-known fragrances mainly use vegetable musk:
L'Instant de Guerlain by Guerlain
Very Irresistible by Givenchy
Pure Poison by Christian Dior
Chanel Chance
Agent Provocateur
Crystal Noir by Versace
Jadore by Christian Dior
Miracle So Magic by Lancome
Forever Elizabeth by Elizabeth Arden
Amor Amor by Cacharel
Muscenone
In perfumery compositions, according to experts, musk goes well with such essential oils like jasmine, ylang ylang, lemon and lemongrass, sandalwood, rose, bergamot and geranium.
Arab doctors use the natural power of musk to treat impotence. Beaver musk is part of Viagra, it is used to prevent diseases of the heart and nervous system, to treat bronchitis and skin diseases. Musk tree is also used - a drug of ancient Tibetan medicine. It is also believed that musk helps in the early stages of cancer. In European medicine, it is used extremely rarely.
In cosmetology, musk is used to rejuvenate the skin of the face and smooth wrinkles. It activates the process of formation of young cells and strengthens intercellular bonds in the epidermis, replenishes the deficiency of moisture, vitamins and minerals. Used in massage for relaxation and anti-inflammatory effect.
Musk is also used in aromatherapy: it relieves negative thoughts and relaxes during meditation.