Layout of electrical wiring in the house. Electrical wiring diagram in the apartment, a competent approach

Due to the need to power the home with electrical energy, it is necessary to install an electrical network indoors. For this purpose, electrical wiring and other elements for connecting, switching and lighting the home are laid. Since this procedure does not require special training, anyone can perform it independently. But first you need to figure out how to install electrical wiring in a house yourself, what stages it consists of, and what needs to be taken into account.

Stages of installing electrical wiring in a house

The entire process can be divided into several stages, the sequence of which will ensure a high-quality result and save time on performing the relevant work. The following installation stages are distinguished:

• Determining the installation method - external or external installation of the cable;
• Drawing up a power supply diagram for the premises;
• Transferring the drawn up diagram directly to the walls;
• Selection of the most suitable elements and materials for installation;
• Preparatory work on processing walls and other structures for installation of electrical wiring, installation of lighting groups, circuit breakers and others;
• The installation work itself;
• Obtaining permission from the power supply organization to connect to its networks, if it is necessary to form a new connection point (if you are replacing the electrical wiring with a new one, this procedure is not required).

Now take a closer look at each of the stages in practice.

Which installation method should I choose?

Of the existing options for laying the cable route, there are two installation methods in relation to wires - internal and external electrical wiring. Internal wiring means that the cable lines are located inside the walls. External electrical wiring is installed on the walls from the outside, and it can be done either with wires or with means of protecting the cable from mechanical damage, for example, cable channels in which the conductor is located.

Advantages and disadvantages of internal lining.

The advantages of hidden electrical wiring include greater reliability and durability due to the inability to cause damage during normal operation. Such electrical wiring requires lower financial costs for armored wires and components for their installation. In addition, hidden installation does not make any changes to the interior of the room.

The disadvantages of internal electrical wiring include labor-intensive preparatory work for producing grooves and poor maintainability in the event of any damage.

Advantages and disadvantages of external gasket.

The advantages of open wiring include a much simpler preparatory process and speed of installation of electrical wiring. During operation, it is easier to repair or change the wiring diagram.

The disadvantages of external electrical wiring are a much greater susceptibility to mechanical damage and an impact on the overall appearance of the interior of the room.

How to create a wiring diagram?

An electrical wiring diagram helps identify switches, lamps, and electrical wiring lines. Therefore, when drawing it up, you need to take into account the connection diagram of electrical appliances in the house. For example, for home electrical wiring, the location of sockets near the TV, electric stove, bed, etc. will be relevant.

Figure 1: Example of wiring diagram in a house

According to the graphical representation method, two-dimensional and three-dimensional wiring diagrams are divided. The first option is the simplest, as it does not require the use of graphic editors and other programs. To do this, take the plan of your own tenant and, on a copy of it, mark the connection points and the number of sockets for each room, wires, switches and electrical wiring lines.

A 3D model is a much more labor-intensive process, but is a great help when creating an electrical project. When, according to a completed assignment, the relevant specialists implement such a project (they are building walls, performing electrical wiring and other electrical installation work).

Rules for installing electrical wiring according to the PUE

When determining the location of wiring and installation of individual elements, you should be guided by the requirements of the PUE. Regarding electrical wiring and the rules for its installation in the PUE, Chapter 2.1 is highlighted. Therefore, the following requirements must be met for the wiring diagram:

• All lines must be installed exclusively in a vertical or horizontal plane, turns are made at an angle of 90º. It is strictly forbidden to shorten the distance diagonally or run wires along a curve.
• In relation to the structural elements of the room, horizontal lines cannot be closer than 20 cm to the ceiling or floor. Vertical lines should be located at a distance of no closer than 10 cm from door and window openings and corners.
• Sockets must be located at a distance of 80 to 100 cm from the floor in accordance with clause 6.6.30 of the PUE; in some situations, this value can vary up to 150 cm. If metal structures (radiators, pipes, stoves) are located near the socket, it is prohibited to bring them closer connection point more than 50 cm.
• Separate requirements are imposed on the arrangement of sockets, switches, electrical wiring in the bathroom and in accordance with clauses 7.1.46 - 7.1.48 PUE
• The switch is installed at a height of up to 1 m, 1.8 m or under the ceiling in accordance with clause 7.1.49 of the PUE.
• The connection of wires must be carried out in boxes; it is forbidden to leave them open or close them in the wall, clause 2.1.21 of the PUE.

Marking on site

To transfer the installation diagram data to an existing wall structure, you need to use measuring instruments (tape measure, angle, etc.), a level, thread and a pencil. To do this, retreat the required distance according to the distances indicated on the diagram and apply the appropriate marks on the building structures (walls or ceiling).

Figure 2: Wall marking

Markings can be done with chalk or a construction pencil. The main requirement for applying an image is to ensure good visibility and the absence of unnecessary details. If you have a laser level, this procedure is greatly simplified.

What elements need to be selected?

Structurally, electrical wiring in a house may include a number of elements:

Wires– for installation in the house, brands such as AVVG, PSV and the like are used. Copper wires are the most preferred due to better technical parameters: long service life, lower resistivity, etc. But, in some situations, aluminum wires can also be used for electrical wiring. The specific option is selected based on the maximum load and insulation requirements.

To determine the maximum currents flowing through electrical wiring, add up the power of electrical appliances that can be connected, and add 20–30% for the safety margin. Based on this, the appropriate cross-section of the core is selected. The insulation resistance must correspond to the characteristics of the room in which the cable is used and the installation method. It should be noted that the cables must be planned with a margin, since at the points of connection or output points they use more than the calculated length of the wire, and the margin must provide the possibility of reconnection.

Rice. 3. wires for wiring

– designed for connecting different sections of electrical wiring, separating and distributing electricity. They are divided into models of external and internal placement, which are selected in accordance with the project. Depending on the cross-section of the wires, boxes with the appropriate size of holes are selected.

Figure 4: Junction boxes

Sockets– may differ in design features: the presence or absence of a grounding contact, cover, hole size, etc. Also, various models can be designed for indoor or outdoor installation. Some options have paired connection point pins.

Switches– can have a design with one, two or three keys, a rotary mechanism or a sensor. It should be noted that some switches are equipped with a voltage divider, which can affect the operation of lighting fixtures.

Lighting– sold as lamps, chandeliers, spotlights, sconces and others. A wide variety provides the opportunity to choose for installation in certain rooms. By purpose, we can distinguish between high-power and low-power lighting devices for the bathroom, kitchen, etc.

Residual current devices– presented on the basis of electromagnetic, semiconductor or microprocessor circuits. The installation is necessary to protect both the electrical wiring in the house from short circuits and fires with household appliances connected to it, and people who may be harmed in the event of a breakdown.

Metering devices– monitor energy consumption. Their installation is required for a new electricity connection or if this is provided for by the project. Depending on the number of phases, electric meters can be connected to a three-phase or single-phase network.

Rice. 5: Typical electricity meter

Protective grounding– must be provided for all consumers with a voltage of more than 42 V. Because of this, when connecting new wiring, it is necessary to have a grounding loop to which the PE conductor from all consumers is connected.

Cable channels– required for external installation of wiring; depending on the material of manufacture, they can be plastic or metal boxes. The size is chosen so that when laying the wires, all the necessary conductors can fit freely in them. Structurally, they can have perforations for cooling or be made in one piece.

The procedure for installing electrical wiring in the house step by step

Please note that depending on the specific situation, certain installation operations may not be performed.

First make a small hole in the center with a drill, and then use a hole saw.

Figure 9: Drilling a hole with a crown

But at the same time, make sure that excessive force does not damage the insulation.

In addition to those allocated for separate rooms or objects, it is necessary to install an input machine with a higher setting. It is installed at the entrance of electricity into the house. You can also use other protective devices (voltage, differential, etc., if needed).

Figure 15: Shield with various protections

To do this, apply voltage at the cable input to the electrical panel. Then test the flow of electric current at all connection points using a test lamp or test the presence of potential using an indicator.

If your home is not yet connected to an external network, then you do not need to do this yourself. Since the connection to the air main is carried out by employees of the energy supply organization. Performing this procedure yourself is prohibited and extremely dangerous.

Video master classes on the topic

Designing electrical wiring in a private house is quite a troublesome task, but quite feasible even without special knowledge. It is enough just to approach this issue carefully. Well, our tips given in this article will allow you to step by step create your own electrical wiring project for any private home.

Any development of an electrical network project begins with determining the total power of the consumer, in this case our home, and its power supply circuit. And if the total power of the consumer in our case is determined by the energy supply company, which sets a consumption limit, then we have the right to design the internal electrical network diagram ourselves.

So:

• The electrical wiring in a private house is as follows. The energy supply company installs an input machine and a meter on the outside wall of the house. The connection of these electrical devices is also carried out by the energy supply company.
• But after the meter, we do the entry into the house, connection to the distribution board and wiring around the house ourselves. And here we have the right to choose a power supply scheme that is convenient for us.
• Typically, a home's power supply diagram looks like this. The cable or SIP wire from the meter is connected directly to the busbars of our distribution board. Separate power supply groups are powered from these buses. Each group has its own power circuit breaker installed on the phase wire. The neutral and protective wires of each group should not have switching devices.

Note! The neutral wire of individual groups can have a switching device only if connected through an RCD. The RCD can be installed either on a separate group or as an input for all groups. The issue of choosing the location for installing the RCD is not regulated by the PUE norms and remains a controversial issue. But based on operating experience and the personal opinion of the author of these lines, we advise you to install them separately for each group.

• Next, the wire or cable from each group machine is mounted to the distribution boxes. Each group can have from one to several distribution boxes.
• From distribution boxes, electrical wiring is distributed to end consumers - sockets and switches.

Designing a home electrical network

Based on the above general diagram of the house's power supply, to design the electrical network, we first need to calculate the number of groups and distribute the loads among them. In order to do this, we need to decide on the wiring installation method and calculate the possible load of our consumers.

Choosing a wiring installation method

Let's start by choosing the method of installing the electrical network. Electrical wiring of a private house can be done in an open or hidden way. And not only the number of groups, wire cross-section and total installation cost, but also the appearance of the entire house depends on the right choice.

So:

• First of all, we note that any type of wiring installation can be implemented in a house of any design and from any building materials. The only question is the cost of installation work. We will not provide installation standards for different types of wiring in different conditions. You can find this information in other articles on our website. Let's focus only on generally accepted norms.
• Open wiring has found wide application in houses made of flammable materials. First of all, this is wood, SIP panels and other types of flammable building materials. For such houses, the cost of installing open wiring is often much lower. Hidden wiring will require considerable financial investment, and its installation is labor-intensive.
• Hidden wiring is used mainly in houses made of brick, foam blocks and other non-combustible materials. After all, this type of wiring allows you to completely hide utility networks, while at the same time, in houses made of non-combustible materials, it does not impose any special requirements.

Calculation of the total load of the house

At the next design stage, you need to calculate the total load on the house and on individual electrical receivers. This is necessary for the subsequent formation of groups.

• To do this, we first need to determine the number of electrical points and their maximum power consumption. This often becomes the most serious problem for non-professionals, but de facto there is nothing difficult about it.
• Each socket or switch in the house is mounted for a specific electrical appliance or group of electrical appliances. We just need to select the most powerful of them and then carry out calculations for it.
• The power of an electrical appliance can be viewed in the device passport. It may also contain an instruction manual. If you don’t have one or the other, then you can find out the approximate power in our table.

• But in most cases, the power of devices is indicated in Watts, and we need to convert it into Amperes. To do this, you can use Ohm's law - . In general, this is a simplified version of the formula, but for our purposes it is quite sufficient. Based on this formula, it turns out that an electrical appliance with a power of 1 kW for a 220V network consumes an electric current of approximately 4.5A.

Distribution of loads by groups

After we have calculated the total load in the house and for each individual electrical point, we can begin to directly create groups.

So:

• According to clause 9.6 of VSN 59 - 88, the rated power of circuit breakers for powering group lines of sockets and lighting networks should not exceed 16A. Starting from this point, we distribute our loads into separate groups.

Note! To power powerful electrical receivers such as an electric oven, it is allowed to install group circuit breakers with a rating of 25A.

• Load distribution among groups should be based on their location and type of load. So quite often the group lines of the lighting network are separated from the power supply groups of the sockets. But this is not mandatory, and in some cases it is not advisable.

• It is also worth remembering that it is not easy to install electrical wiring in a private house yourself. Therefore, you should not place different electrical receivers of the same group in different parts of the house. Usually these are 1 - 2 adjacent rooms.
• Another aspect that is worth paying attention to is clause 7.2 of VSN 59 - 88. It requires connecting sockets in the kitchen and living rooms to different groups. Quite often, the kitchen outlet group also includes an outlet in the bathroom.

Note! Sockets in the bathroom can only be installed if there is an RCD circuit breaker in the group in which the socket is installed. Moreover, according to the PUE, the rated leakage current for such a switching device is normalized by a leakage current of 30 mA.

• As a result, we can get from 3 to 7 groups depending on the total load. Some may end up with more than 10 groups. But here everything depends on the size of the house and the number of electrical appliances. But according to the technical conditions, the introductory circuit breaker, which is installed in a house, rarely exceeds the value of 25A, sometimes 40A.
• This should be remembered when dividing the load into groups with your own hands. After all, the likelihood that all electrical appliances will work at the same time is quite low. Therefore, you should approach this issue soberly and perform the distribution more carefully, taking into account such a factor as the utilization rate.

Wiring selection

Before you carry out electrical wiring in a private house yourself, you should also worry about calculating its cross-section. After all, its durability and fire safety depend on this factor. This issue is especially relevant for houses made of combustible materials.

• According to clause 7.1.34 of the PUE, only copper cables and wires should be used in residential buildings since 2001. Previously, aluminum wires, which can often be found in old houses, were allowed.
• As for the cross-section of the wires, it should be selected based on the load on the group line. But in order to avoid making a lot of calculations and simplify the choice, you can proceed from the nominal parameters of group machines.
• In addition, when choosing a wiring cross-section, you should take into account the method of laying the wires. After all, the heat transfer for wires laid in a hidden and open way is different. In this regard, although slightly, their cross-section differs depending on the load.
• We make the choice according to Table 1.3.4 PUE. In addition to the loads and installation method, it also takes into account such a parameter as the type of wire.

• But no matter how you choose the electrical wiring in a private house, you should remember that the cross-section should be no less than that given in the table. 7.1.1 PUE. For group lines it must be at least 1.5 mm 2.

Conclusion

In our article we presented the main stages of designing an electrical network in a private home. As you can see, there is nothing complicated about this, and the video on our website should make this task even easier. The main thing is to approach this issue carefully and carefully and you will probably succeed.

When starting repairs, you first need to take care of replacing utilities. After all, the functionality and durability of electrical appliances depend on them. Old wiring can, at best, damage household appliances, and at worst, cause a short circuit that can cause a fire. Therefore, electrical wiring in a private house must be carried out in compliance with safety requirements and in accordance with the work plan.

Planning

As a rule, electrical systems in new homes do not need to be replaced. In this case, you may only need to place additional lighting fixtures and new sockets. In older houses, the damaged area, preferably all wiring, needs to be analyzed and replaced.

When replacing electrics, the first stage of work is to draw up a diagram in which the intended location of household appliances and other electrical equipment (computers, hoods, air conditioners) should be clearly defined. Also, do not forget that in a modern kitchen you need to install a lot of sockets.

After placing all household appliances, it is necessary to calculate the resistance and load. Only after this is the need to install additional machines determined. High-power appliances require a separate wiring diagram. This will allow you to properly distribute the load and, accordingly, prevent power outages throughout the entire house.

Installation methods

Replacing electrical wiring begins with determining its location. If you are planning to completely replace the power supply system, then it is enough to find out the exact location of the wire entering the house, and then route the cable from it according to the established diagram. The search is carried out using special devices.

Electrical wiring in a private house can be done in two main ways - closed and open. Let's look at them in more detail.

Closed method

In this case, complete concealment of the power supply system is provided. Hidden electrical wiring allows you not only to create an aesthetic interior, but also to protect utility lines from various damages.

However, this installation option requires a careful approach. To hide the cable, you will need to additionally purchase corrugated pipes for electrical wiring. For each point (switch, socket), you will need to buy a special box that will protect the installed mechanism.

In places where utility lines are laid, grooves are installed in the walls. As soon as the electrical wiring in a private house is completely completed, it is necessary to connect the wires together and check the functionality of the system. And only after this a layer of plaster is applied.

Open way

The open wiring diagram provides easy access to wires and every point of the system. In this case, the wire is placed in special plastic boxes, which, if desired, will fit perfectly into the interior. The electrical wiring is connected using special bundles.

Safety precautions

Electrical wiring in a private home should be freely accessible. All meters, sockets, panels and switches must be located away from gas appliances and in open areas.

Sockets must be mounted at a height of at least 300 mm from the floor level, and switches - at the level of the lowered hand. It is not advisable to install sockets in the toilet and bathroom. However, if such a need does arise, you will need to lay a separate line and high-quality cable insulation.

It is important to strictly follow safety requirements. Electrical wiring must be installed in a completely de-energized room. It is necessary to follow the recommendations for cable installation and ensure that it does not come into contact with metal structures.

Main stages

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring must be done in series. The whole process consists of the following main steps:

• Drawing up a wiring diagram.
• Marking.
• Construction works.
• Cabling.
• Installation of lighting fixtures and sockets.
• Cable connections into a single system.
• Commissioning works.

Drawing up a diagram

Before making electrical wiring, it is necessary to develop drawings. This is required to determine the number of electrical energy consumers and how to connect them. The diagram will allow you to find out the installation locations of all elements, the optimal distance between them, as well as the exact amount of consumables.

Drawings can be drawn up in any order, but it is advisable to comply with some requirements.

Powerful household appliances (boiler, electric stove, washing machine) must be grounded. To do this, you will need to install 3 wires for electrical wiring (“phase”, “zero”, “ground”). The lines for connecting lamps and sockets should be separated.

Marking

In accordance with the design documentation, it is necessary to carry out marking work. The places for laying cables and installing sockets should be marked. At this stage, you can also study the features of providing other utilities (water supply, sewerage, heating, etc.).

Construction works

After marking, you should start drilling the walls. This is required for laying communications. Grooves are drilled - special channels in concrete or brick. These holes can vary in depth and size. If you don’t have professional equipment for drilling grooves, you can use an ordinary chisel. But in this case the process will take much longer. Therefore, it is advisable to use a hammer drill or grinder. To create holes for switches and sockets, you need to drill round recesses with a diameter of 80 mm.

Cabling

As mentioned above, do-it-yourself electrical wiring can be done in two ways - closed and open. In the first case, installation is carried out in the grooves under the plaster. Traditionally, such communications are created during the construction of the building. This option is used in the construction of houses to ensure maximum safety. But it is worth noting that this option is characterized by significant disadvantages - for example, they are difficult to access if additional connection of current receivers is necessary. Also, with hidden wiring, the cable can be laid in the floor structure.

In the second case, the wires for electrical wiring are laid openly along the surface of the walls and ceilings. This option is more suitable for technical rooms and country houses.

Installation of lamps and sockets

Electrical installation equipment can be divided into several types - lamps, switches and sockets. All of them can belong to open or hidden wiring.

This equipment must be mounted on special socket boxes with a thickness of at least 10 mm and a diameter of 70 mm. Products must be made of non-conducting materials - textolite, plexiglass, wood. The boxes are installed in grooves and secured with gypsum mortar.

The top cover is removed from the switch, a cable with a margin of approximately 50-60 mm is connected to the terminals. To slide the product body from the spacer bracket plates into the box, it is necessary to remove the screws. Then they should be wrapped, the spacers moved apart to fix them in the installation device. To prevent the socket from tilting, the screws must be tightened one at a time. Finally, the cover is installed in place.

The switches are installed in the gap in the “phase” wire leading to the lamp socket. In the event of a short circuit, this will allow you to de-energize the network as quickly as possible, and ensure safety when replacing lighting fixtures.

During the installation process, you need to ensure that the shutdown is carried out by pressing the top key. Sockets are connected parallel to the main line of the electrical network.

Connecting the cable into a single system

The line is connected into a single whole using special terminals. In order to further ensure convenient operation of electrical wiring and the possibility of disconnecting or connecting additional consumers, it is recommended to mark the cable connections.

Commissioning works

Checking the functionality of the electrical network is one of the important points, as this will prevent many problems in the future. Commissioning work involves the following stages:

• Visual inspection of the electrical installation for compliance with the requirements for electrical installation work and design documentation.
• Insulation resistance measurement.
• Checking the presence of a circuit and the quality of connection of grounding devices.
• Testing of fasteners for installing lamps and socket assemblies.

Connection permission

The installation of the electrical wiring of the residential building is completed, the facility is ready to supply voltage. The owner of electrical networks, on the basis of acceptance and delivery measures, draws up an act of admission to connection. During the acceptance process, voltage is allowed to be supplied to the new house on the basis of a contract for the entire test period. To carry out these tests, you will need to contact the owner of the electrical networks to which the power supply is connected, with an application for a technical inspection and permission to connect. The following documents must be attached to the application:

• Current technical conditions.
• Project documentation with all necessary approvals.
• Information about installed electrical energy meters.
• Act of operational responsibility of the parties and balance sheet.
• Single-line power supply diagram.

If you decide to replace electrical networks, then you need to understand a few basic rules:

• Before installation, you need to draw a wiring diagram indicating the locations of switches, lighting fixtures, sockets, metering devices and electrical energy protection.
• Replacing electrical wiring is not like wallpapering a room. It is advisable to install it as quickly as possible and in one go.
• It is important that the installation is carried out by qualified specialists.
• As a rule, wiring is replaced every 30-50 years, it all depends on the quality of installation and the materials used. Therefore, in this case there is no need to save money; this primarily concerns protective devices and cable products.
• It is advisable to use copper cable for electrical wiring. Despite the fact that, unlike aluminum, it is much more expensive, copper wire has excellent mechanical and electrical characteristics.

Electrical work in the private sector in our country is more bad than good. For most would-be electricians, protecting people from electric shock and property from fire, unfortunately, means nothing. At the same time, one gets the impression that ordinary users skipped physics classes at school and do not understand at all what electric current is. But they believe very well in marketing tricks and happily attack “branded” automation, rejecting any other.

I propose to understand step by step all the issues of power supply to a private country house using the example of a single-phase input. This guide can also be applied to apartment use. I would like to note right away that my specific solution for certain nodes is the optimal balance between functionality and price, but without compromising security!

I hope there is no need to retell the full course of physics and explain what alternating electric current is. We will also omit the moments of how this electric current appeared at the power plant and entered the power line through a step-up transformer. I will only note the important nuance that the entire power supply system in Russia is three-phase. The single-phase voltage of 220 volts in your outlet is only the phase voltage on one of the three phases. And the line voltage will be 380 volts. This circumstance should be taken into account in view of such a phenomenon as “phase imbalance,” which, nevertheless, is relevant only with old wiring that is not designed for modern loads.

2. So, a step-down transformer in SNT. A high voltage of 10 kV comes through three wires. Then 4 wires (3 phase and one neutral conductor) diverge along the SNT. In the photo you see a modern transformer and taps in the form of SIP wires. At the moment, the air lines in our SNT are undergoing modernization.

3. With single-phase input, two conductors are connected to each consumer: phase and neutral. In the photo you can see old aluminum wires on the pole closest to the house. The outlet to the house has already been made using SIP wire. Particular attention to the fact that all overhead line supports must have re-grounding of the neutral conductor (top right photo). This is necessary in order to eliminate emergency situations, such as “zero break”. In this case, you should pay special attention to your own grounding in the absence of repeated groundings on intermediate supports, otherwise in an emergency your own grounding may be the only one for the entire village.

4. Get to the point. The last section of the overhead line from the nearest pole to the building is stretched with SIP wire, in our case 2x16. It stands for self-supporting insulated wire; it is aluminum with a cross-section of 16 mm². For ease of installation and laying in the place of anchor fastening, using special clamps (the SIP wire implies installation of the line under voltage; on special clamps the nut is not under tension, and also has a shear thread that guarantees the required tightening force) goes into a VVG with a cross-section of at least 10 mm² . It is in this form that the two wires enter the input panel. In the panel we have a two-pole input circuit breaker and a surge suppressor (mandatory at the end support for overhead input), which will protect the network when lightning strikes the phase conductor of the overhead line. It is connected in front of the machine to the phase conductor. Here in the panel the grounding is connected strictly BEFORE the input circuit breaker. We are considering the TN-C-S grounding scheme, since the TT system is still created for mobile buildings, and not permanent buildings, and it has its own specific safety requirements. The TN-C-S system has no disadvantages if installed correctly. Even if we go deeper into this topic, if you make a TT, then this will only be your end section, while the entire overhead line from the transformer will be TN-C.

5. Mandatory grounding. Three corners with a wall of 50 mm (steel thickness 5 mm), 2 meters long, are driven into the ground with a sledgehammer and welded together in the shape of a triangle. A steel strip 40 mm wide goes to the wall of the house. The last meter to the shield is done using a copper conductor with a cross-section of at least 16 mm². It is strictly forbidden to underestimate the cross-section; in the event of any accident on the line, your grounding may become the only one for the entire line/street/block. The switching in the panel is as follows. The combined PEN (Protected Earth + Neutral) conductor from the overhead line is divided into two busbars into N and PE. After this, the input circuit breaker is switched, next to it is the surge suppressor. From the machine, the power line goes to the electric meter. A three-core copper wire with a cross-section of each core of 6 mm² goes directly into the house. The phase and neutral conductors come from the meter, grounding from the corresponding bus.

6. Let's move on to the internal wiring of the house. I repeat that when designing the electrical network, the principle of reasonable sufficiency was used. Of course, it was possible to make 2 times more sockets and increase the number of power lines by the same amount, but I believe that this is completely unnecessary. Explanations for the diagram: red squares - distribution boxes, yellow circles - lamps. Blue indicates wiring in the screed, red - in the walls. Everywhere in the house only LED lighting is used (the total consumption of all lamps turned on at the same time does not reach 300 watts). The lighting is powered from the power line to a specific room, I don’t see any practical need for separation, and besides, this significantly increases the amount of installation work. The diagram shows all existing consumers in the house. If you have questions, ask.

7. So, let's get started. This is a temporary electrician for the period of construction work. Let's move on to laying power lines. There are 10 of them in total. Some of them will go along the walls, some in the floor in the corrugation.

8. Let's start with the floor power lines. We use NYM cable with a cross-section of 3x2.5 mm² in corrugation (the gray corrugation does not burn at all, the black one does not support combustion and has ultraviolet protection - it doesn’t really matter what to use in the screed, it’s not so easy to find a durable gray one, but I would trample the soft one while the preparatory work was underway work). A frequently asked question - why not VVG? In terms of performance characteristics, they are completely identical, but NYM has the advantage of triple insulation, while it has the disadvantage of a non-UV resistant shell. Therefore, VVG is preferable for open wiring. In other respects, NYM is more convenient, including because of its round shape (round VVG also exists, but it is extremely difficult to find it in stock). A round NYM can be easily pulled into a corrugation with a diameter of 16 mm, which is extremely convenient. It is worth documenting the routes for laying lines along the floor as a keepsake, although nowhere except for door thresholds is there even a theoretical possibility that you will need to drive something into the concrete floor screed.

9. Corner of the kitchen area. Aerated concrete is simply an excellent material for processing - you can even scratch the walls with an ordinary screwdriver. So, we drill holes for mounting and distribution boxes. The wire in walls made of NON-COMBUMBABLE bases is laid in the form in which it is. No corrugations are required. All attention to the tracks. Power lines are laid only at right angles. The main line runs along the floor at a height of 20-30 cm, then rises strictly VERTICALLY to sockets and switches. Diagonal laying is prohibited and is dangerous with the risk of getting into the wire, for example, when driving a nail into a wall (and so you know for sure that you cannot drive nails exactly under sockets and above switches). The cable is attached to the wall using plastic round brackets (two holes are drilled and the bracket is inserted).

10. The floor screed is filled. The question at what stage to lay the cable along the wall is purely a matter of your personal preference. Someone first plaster the walls, then make a groove, lay a cable and seal the groove back. I prefer to do the wiring before plastering the walls. This method may seem inconvenient because... During plastering work, increased attention will be required to the points with mounting boxes (you need to plug them with something and then pick them out). Pay attention to the left corner - all switching on the pass-through lines of sockets is made not in socket boxes, but in separate distribution boxes.

11. I will repeat with the type of wires. NYM is an ideal and universal cable. The cross section is selected in accordance with the load. Usually a 3x2.5 mm² cable is used. For powerful consumers, such as an electric hob, a wire with a core cross-section of 4 mm² may be required. For lighting lines, where in my case LEDs are used (maximum power consumption in the largest room is 80 watts), I use a PUNP cable 2x1.5 mm² (grounding in the lighting network is not needed, there is nowhere to connect it). In general, standards prohibit the use of PUNP due to the fact that technical conditions allow the cross-section of the cores to be underestimated by up to 30% compared to the standards, and with widespread savings everywhere and in everything, this can cause a fire due to exceeding the permissible load. In my case, my maximum load is more than 30 times less than what a cable with a cross-section of 1.5 mm² can safely carry. Therefore, a larger cross-section is not required, and this cable is most convenient for installing a lighting line. Yes, keep in mind that for fixed wiring only rigid cable with a single core is used. Socket boxes and distribution boxes are mounted into the wall on building plaster (alabaster), as the fastest-drying solution.

12. Now comes the actual stage of assembly and installation of power lines. You will need a few handy tools. The uppermost one is used for crimping the ends of multi-core cables, for example PV3 (currently being replaced by PuGV), which are used when assembling an electrical panel. The middle tool is useful for quickly stripping the NYM cable sheath - clamp, twist, pull. Below is a simple tool for stripping the end cores, not very convenient, but more than enough for a one-time job.

13. It is also necessary to have such a thing as an indicator screwdriver. There are two varieties of them. The original device with a neon lamp without a power source is capable of detecting only phase voltage. This simple Chinese device with a power supply has more advanced functionality and allows you to determine not only the phase (important! to determine the phase, you must not touch the screwdriver cap with your fingers), but also the integrity of the line, as well as the location of the conductor break. On the right is the initial blank for the electrical panel. When switching, it is important to distribute everything in such a way that it is intuitively clear where everything is.

14. I’ll immediately note a nuance that “specialists” will definitely get to the bottom of - the neutral conductor should be blue, but I have it black since in our tree called Moscow there is never anything in stock at the moment when I need it (since the shield obviously single-phase, there is no obvious catastrophe and error of confusing zero with the second phase). For switching in the electrical panel, I use a PV3 wire (you can use a modern PuGV) with a cross-section of 6 mm². It will also require special NSVI lugs (insulated pin sleeve lug), they are needed in order to assemble a stranded wire before switching it under the screw (the strands will spread out - there may be poor contact). It is also convenient to use special single-pole and double-pole busbars (in the right photo in the background) to connect a number of circuit breakers.

15. Switching in distribution boxes is as follows. The terminals used are WAGO 2273 (left) on conductors with a cross-section of 3x1.5 mm² (why and why - below) and WAGO 222 (right) on conductors with a cross-section of 3x2.5 mm². Be sure to always follow the color coding of the conductors. WAGO 222 series is perhaps the best option if you don’t want to bother with soldering and crimping.

16. Installation of sockets and switches. I really like Schneider Electric products, the Unica series. According to modern standards, switches must be turned down. Switching upwards is an old school from the time of switches, the switching of which upwards was due to their design. Unica series switches are switched downwards, this is their standard position.

17. Switching of double sockets standing next to each other is as follows. The power wire comes to the terminals of one outlet, and then a branch is made to the adjacent one. Rules of good manners require that when installing sockets, the phase conductor must be connected to the right.

18. We return to the electrical panel. I would like to draw your attention right away - always take a shield with a very large reserve, it will definitely not be superfluous. I seemed to have done everything to the minimum, but almost all 36 positions (3 rows of 12 positions each) were occupied. Be sure to leave a supply of power line wires equal to at least one and a half times the height of the shield. On the right you can see the first version of switching, and in fact this is the moment when the house was switched from a temporary electrical circuit to a permanent one. In the process, a couple of consumers appeared and the scheme was slightly modified.

So, I’ll tell you in detail what, how and why. Go!

A few words about the components of the shield.

Automatic switch or just a machine. Provides short circuit protection and also provides protection for electrical wiring. Consequently, it contains two releases - electromagnetic and thermal, respectively. The first one is triggered in the event of a short circuit on the line; the response time is determined by the time-current characteristic, which in any case is several times higher than the current rating of the machine. The thermal release is a bimetallic strip with different coefficients of thermal expansion and is designed to protect electrical wiring. It is in accordance with the cross-section of the cable and the sockets used that the rating of the machine is selected. The most common mistake is to install a 25A breaker on a power line with a 2.5 mm² wire, assuming that the cable will withstand it. No you can not. And the reason lies in the sockets. Conventional sockets are designed for current up to 16A. Therefore, this is exactly what the machine’s nominal value should be. And in general, it is better to play it safe and reduce the rating of the machine, as it will be the one that can protect the wiring from overheating or, even worse, fire.

An RCD is a protective device that detects leakage current. The simplest mechanical device is a differential current transformer. To put it simply, the amount of current that “arrived” through the phase conductor should be equal to the amount of current that “went out” through the neutral conductor. If “out” is less than “in”, there is a leak and protection is triggered. If there is grounding, the RCD will trip as soon as dangerous voltage appears on the device body; if there is no grounding, the RCD will trip as soon as a person touches the body (he will get a slight electric shock). It follows from this that RCDs should always be used, and the presence of grounding only increases the level of safety. At the same time, it is strictly forbidden to make homemade grounding in an apartment in the absence of it; the consequences can be very sad. About the RCD, it is worth noting that it itself needs to be protected from short-circuit current, so after it in the line there must be a circuit breaker(s) with a lower rating than the RCD itself. The rating of the RCD itself implies what maximum current it is designed for; it is better to focus on a 20-30% margin from a constant load. The simplest way to check the functionality of the RCD and the correct grounding is to short-circuit the neutral and ground conductors in the socket. The RCD should turn off immediately.

To summarize: a circuit breaker protects wiring and equipment, an RCD protects people. There are also difavtomats (here and earlier I use the terminology that has developed in our country, although it is not entirely accurate), a device that combines the functions of an automatic machine and an RCD.

Now let's move on to the shield:

We start from the upper left corner. This is where the 3x6 mm² cable comes from the street panel. Input RCD with leakage current 300 mA. Popularly called “fireproof”. It is used in conjunction with an RCD for a lower leakage current, firstly to ensure selectivity during shutdown (first of all, the “junior” RCD will trip), and secondly, to increase fault tolerance. Next to it is the ABB C11 meter, which I use exclusively for technical metering of electricity (to report to you the consumption figures of the air source heat pump and not to run to the street panel for this). After it there are two two-pole circuit breakers that also act as switches. The left one, rated at 40A, is used to de-energize the entire electrical system of the house with the exception of the air source heat pump. The right one controls the air source heat pump). To the right there is a thermostat for the anti-icing system (20 meters of heating cable in the gutter and drains) and three automatic devices: for it and two lines of street outlets (which in turn are powered by one RCD from the next row).

Second row. In the left corner there is a common ground bus for all lines. Pay attention to the switching. You should not lay wires behind the slats; it is better to route them as openly as possible. Next we have a line of RCDs in the amount of 6 pieces, according to which all consumers in the house are evenly divided. The leakage current of all RCDs is 30 mA, although ideally for a bathroom it is worth using an RCD with a leakage current of 10 mA.

Third row. Consumer finite state machines along lines. On the left, right and bottom are the corresponding zero buses extending from a specific RCD for each line. They must be separate, otherwise there will be no point in dividing the RCD into separate lines. The machines are grouped into groups according to load types.

How to choose the rated current of the machine? As we explained above, the rating of the machine is selected based on the cross-section of the conductor (a copper conductor with a cross-section of 2.5 mm² can withstand 25A long-term load) and switching devices (household sockets are designed for currents up to 16A). Everyone knows how to convert amperes to watts - multiply by voltage (220 volts).

20. Close-up of the bottom row of machines. Single-core cables are connected directly to the screws; multi-core cables must first be crimped with a lug. There are a lot of unfounded claims from “experts” about IEK products, and very in vain. This is an excellent option in terms of price/quality ratio. They are made in China, Russia and Turkey. And they perform their function no worse than the “racially loyal” ABB and Legrand. Don't believe me? Ask real electricians, not charlatans selling what is more expensive. All of Moscow, after the recent modernization, is electrified using IEK automation; of course, on a scale of millions, the quantitative statistics of failures will be higher than in the case of other brands, which are used in the housing stock by several orders of magnitude less. What bad can happen to IEK? And nothing that can harm a person. Once triggered, the RCD or circuit breaker simply will not turn back on and will require replacement. That's all.

21. Complete shield assembly.

22. And a layout along the lines with signatures. Simple and functional. Groups along lines are highlighted in color. If an accident occurs, for example on a line with a pump, then only it will turn off, and the power supply to the entire house will not be affected. This number of RCDs may seem excessive to many. Indeed, a sufficient minimum is one incoming RCD for the entire facility with a leakage current of 30 mA. Remember - there should always be an RCD. Even if your apartment does not have a modernized input and uses a TN-C connection with two wires. Yes, you do not have a separate grounding, and the RCD will not handle the situation of phase leakage to the device body without the “help” of a person. But the RCD will protect the person.

23. Well, the final types of sockets in the premises. Let me remind you that on outlet lines the circuit breaker should not exceed the rating of 16A (for example, the line to the bedroom is made with NYM 3x1.5 mm² cable (I don’t see the need to include a load of more than 2 kW there), and therefore the circuit breaker on this line has a rating of current 10A.

24. And a few words about lighting. Everywhere in the house there are inexpensive lamps chambered for GU10. As for LED lamps, I ordered several models from China for testing, and also took “Russian China” ones under the Camelion and Woltra brands. With the price of the latter being about 230 rubles per lamp, I’ll honestly say that buying anything from China is pointless. All samples priced at less than 150 rubles apiece have a serious spread in color temperature, not to mention too low (Ra<70) индексе цветопередачи.

Everything related to electrical networks is described in detail and clearly in the PUE (Electrical Installation Rules). There are some differences between chapters, but overall everything is correct.

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Modern human life cannot be comfortable at all without electricity. When it is absent, it seems that life has stopped, because any household appliance or electrical tool requires connection to the electrical network. Sometimes without electricity you won’t even be able to cook food, let alone provide adequate lighting to your home. Therefore, if you are planning construction, then the electrical wiring diagram in a private house should be a priority issue that should be given special attention. It is necessary to think through and calculate everything down to the smallest detail, so that no slightest mistake or inaccuracy in the installation and connection of the electrical network will lead to further breakdown of household appliances, or, even worse, to fire.

What is the need for a diagram?

The electrical wiring diagram in a private house is a drawing on which all the main power supply components are plotted:

• The input line, which is carried out by branching from the main power line to the house itself.
• Installation location of the distribution panel.
• Protective devices and electrical energy meter.
• Places for installing distribution boxes, switches and sockets in rooms and premises.
• Electrical wiring routes from junction boxes to switching devices.
• Places for installing elements of the lighting network (chandeliers, sconces, lamps).

By the time you do electrical wiring in the house, it is advisable to clearly decide where the main household appliances will be located - refrigerator, air conditioner, washing machine, water heater, dishwasher. This is necessary in order to immediately install sockets next to the equipment, and not then stretch the carriers across the entire room.

If your building is a typical one, which was built by a construction company (this is how entire cottage communities are now being built), then you should be provided with a building design and a wiring diagram. In the case when the construction is carried out independently, each house develops its own personal scheme. But in both options, the main purposes of the circuit are the same:

1. If you have a ready-made schematic drawing, you can make a list of materials that will be needed to install electrical wiring in the house. This will help save money. That is, having a list in hand, you can go to different retail outlets, calmly decide, and choose the best quality and most affordable electrical goods. You won’t buy anything unnecessary and at the same time save yourself from the situation when installation is already being done, but some materials are missing, and you urgently run to the first store you come across to buy them at any price.
2. The wiring diagram will make it possible to determine the maximum load of each electrical unit, which will allow you to select the correct cross-section of wires, calculate the total power, select the necessary protective devices and input cable.
3. The diagram will also help you competently and rationally plan the order of work.

Paperwork

Be prepared for the fact that electrical wiring in a private house will also require your nerves, because to obtain permission to carry out work you will need:

1. Contact the organization that owns the power line from which you plan to connect the input. They must issue technical specifications (TU) for this connection.
2. The next one will be an organization or commercial company, which, according to the issued technical specifications, will draw up a project.
3. Again, the energy supply organization will need to agree on the project and write an application for connection (on the main line this should be done by their electricians).
4. The completed input line must be tested by a special electrical laboratory, after which a protocol is issued stating that the input has passed the test and is suitable for use.
5. Now the input cable is inserted into the distribution board and connected to the input of the electricity meter, which must be sealed by energy sales representatives. After the meter, you do the electrical wiring in the house yourself, or you can invite specialists; you will no longer need any other organizations.
6. The last thing left for you is to conclude an agreement with the energy supply organization for the supply of electricity on their part, and on timely payment of the consumed kilowatt-hours on yours.

Input planning

The most important difference between electrics in an apartment and a private house is the input process. In multi-storey buildings, the input comes to the switchboard, and from there the wiring goes to the apartments. And for a private house, it is necessary to make a branch line from a nearby main line. The reliability, quality and safety of the power supply depends on how competently and correctly you do this. There are two ways:

• Installation of air inlet with cable or insulated wire.
• Laying underground cable entry.

Before you install an introductory line for a private home, it is very important to think through and plan it so that it is resistant to strong winds and also does not pose a risk of electric shock to a person in rainy, snowy or damp weather.

Air input

This overhead entry involves pulling a wire or cable from the nearest support of the main power line to the building.

I would like to warn you right away that the air input will be rational if the distance from the support to the house is less than 20 m. In the case when the span is more than 20 m, you will need to install another additional support, which may be on your site. This measure is necessary in order to reduce the mechanical load on the wire. When the span is very large, there is a possibility that the wire may break under the influence of strong winds or under its own weight.

How to make an air entry correctly?

1. It is necessary to drill a hole in the wall of the house construction and insert a piece of metal pipe or a special plastic corrugation into it (the diameter of the hole and pipe will depend on the cross-section of the input wire).
2. A bracket with an insulator installed on it is fixed to the wall outside the house.
3. Now you need to tension the steel cable between two insulators (one on the bracket, the second on the traverse of the support from which the branch is made).
4. The input wire or cable on the support is connected to the line wires. Then it is laid along the cable to the house, where it is pulled through the hole made into the building. Every 0.5-0.6 m, it is advisable to secure the wire to the tensioned steel cable with plastic or metal clamps.

That's all, the input cable has entered the building, where it will be inserted into the distribution panel. As you can see, there is nothing complicated, but some nuances should be taken into account here:

• It is very important to ensure sufficient tension in the steel cable.
• The wire should be attached to the cable freely, without tension.
• The distance from the ground to the wire should not be less than 3.5 m.
• The cable and the input wire attached to it along its entire length should not touch any ancillary buildings, trees or tall bushes.
• The place where the wire enters directly into the house must be sealed. After it is pulled into the pipe, all remaining space must be filled with polyurethane foam. Another option can be used - compact it tightly with mineral wool made of non-flammable material.

The best option for air entry into the house is a SIP type wire (self-supporting insulated wire). Firstly, its insulation is made from materials that are suitable for use in conditions of sunlight and precipitation, and also withstand significant temperature fluctuations. Secondly, under the insulating layer, in addition to the aluminum conductors, there is a steel cable. That is, when installing such a wire, there is no need to stretch a separate support cable.

If single-phase voltage (220 V) is required for private housing construction, then a two-core wire will be needed. In the case when three-phase voltage (380 V) is needed, a four-core wire will be required. The minimum cross-section of SIP wires is 16 mm 2.

You can see how to install the air supply for electricity in this video:

Underground input

Laying the input cable in the ground has a number of advantages compared to the overhead method:

1. Reliability increases due to the fact that the cable is not exposed to sudden temperature changes, precipitation, or strong winds.
2. The style and architectural design of the site has a complete look, that is, they are not spoiled by a stretched cable with a fixed wire or additional support. As a rule, it is for this reason that all fashionable cottages and country houses have underground input.
3. If this is a country house in which people live only in the summer, and in winter the building is empty, there is a possibility that hooligans or vandals will cut out and steal the air inlet. With underground installation, this situation is unlikely.
4. In the event of a short circuit and an electric arc during underground input, there is virtually no chance that property and people could be harmed. And with air entry, the fire that occurs can spread to buildings. So high fire safety when laying cables in the ground is a very important advantage, especially for houses made of wood.

But not everything is so ideal; the soil is also quite an aggressive environment. Over time, the chemical composition of the soil can cause corrosive processes, which will render the cable sheath unusable. At the same time, the soil itself can subside and swell, shift and freeze. Groundwater, rodents and microorganisms, as well as pressure from the roots of large trees will also have an impact. Therefore, if you decide to supply electricity to your house underground, take care to protect the cable and lay it in a plastic or metal pipe.

Well, the main disadvantage of underground input is excavation work. Firstly, they need to be coordinated with a bunch of various organizations that may have something laid in this land - water, gas or sewer pipes; heating mains; main cable power lines; telephone communication lines. Secondly, to lay a cable in the ground you will need to dig a trench, and this is an additional (and decent) cost. If you do it yourself, you will spend a lot of time and effort. If you hire someone to do excavation work, you will have to spend money.

In order to better understand the scope of work, we recommend watching the following video:

So before you make electrical wiring in your house, first weigh the pros and cons, take into account the advantages and disadvantages, and choose the appropriate input option for yourself. And when you are done with the external power supply, you can safely begin installing the internal one.

Load calculation

Installing electrical wiring in a private house with your own hands requires preliminary work with your head, that is, mental work, namely, you need to calculate what kind of load your home electrical network will have. To make it easier for you, divide all electricity consumers into groups:

• Lighting elements.
• Kitchen appliances (refrigerator, range hood, bread maker, electric stove and oven, electric kettle and coffee maker, multicooker and microwave oven, etc.).
• Low-power household appliances and electrical appliances (computer, TV, stereo system, etc.).
• Air conditioners.
• Electric heating.
• Bathroom appliances (water heater, hair dryer and washing machine).
• Power tools that are used in utility rooms (hammer drill, electric drill, electric lawn mower, pump, etc.).

Sum up the power of all devices. Correct the resulting figure by multiplying by 0.7 (this is the generally accepted coefficient for simultaneous switching on of devices). Please note that the power of each group should not exceed 4.5 kW. Based on the calculated load, decide on the cross-section and brand of wires. Electrical wiring in a private house is carried out using copper wires. For hidden installation, choose brands VVGng, PUNP, VVG, for open installation - PUGVP, PUGNP. Wiring made in a private home with such wires will have a decent service life (about 10 years), minimal losses and safe operation.

Distribution panel

The place where the shield can be installed is not regulated in any way. The only condition is that it must be located no closer than 1 m from the pipelines (this means any pipes - gas, water, sewer).

In which room it is better to mount the shield is also not specified anywhere. Many people prefer to install it in some utility rooms, where it will be convenient to perform switching, or they place it at the entrance to the house. In any case, try to adhere to simple rules:

1. This room should not be a fire hazard (such as a boiler room). It is prohibited to store gas cylinders and flammable substances near the distribution panel.
2. It is necessary that the room where the shield is located is dry, that is, it is not advisable to install it next to the bathroom.
3. There must be free access to the panel; do not arrange a warehouse from the room where it is located.

The following are mounted in the shield itself:

• electricity meter;
• input machine, it is responsible for the power supply to the entire house;
• several machines for connecting outgoing pantographs according to their breakdown into groups;
• a residual current device (RCD), which operates in tandem with an input circuit breaker.

The shield can be installed in a niche specially made for it or simply hung on a wall surface.

If the house is huge on several floors with baths, saunas, garages, then one panel will not be enough. In such cases, one input panel and additional ones are installed on each floor.

Internal power supply layout

There are two ways to conduct electrical wiring in a private house - open and hidden. Let's briefly consider each of them separately.

Open wiring

The open method of laying wires is also called external, and is most often used in wooden houses.

Wires can be routed:

• in special plastic boxes;
• on porcelain insulators using a special cable (the so-called retro style).

The diagram should show which route you are going to route the cables along and mark the places where the fixing elements (insulators) will be installed.

For open wiring, special outdoor switching devices (sockets, switches) are used.

Hidden wiring

If the structure is concrete, with many technological voids, a hidden method of laying wires is used. It is more complicated, since you first need to make special grooves in the walls, called grooves, into which the wire or cable will be laid. And after this, the laid conductors will need to be fixed using alabaster or gypsum mortar.

You will also need indoor switches and sockets. Before installing them, holes are made in the walls, the socket boxes are also fixed in them using a solution, and only then the switching devices are installed.

Hidden wiring with your own hands is not difficult to do; the only thing that can cause difficulties and take a lot of time and effort is making grooves and holes.

Everything related to electrical installation work is regulated by a set of Electrical Installation Rules (PUE). For those who are seriously involved in electrical wiring installation, it is useful to familiarize yourself with this book at your leisure. Here we present the most basic and important points that should be taken into account before doing the wiring in the house with your own hands:

1. All distribution boxes, sockets and switches must be within easy reach (not covered with wallpaper, not hidden under plasterboard sheets, not filled with bulky furniture that cannot be moved).
2. The grounding conductor must be attached to household appliances using a bolted connection.
3. The switches are mounted at a height of 60-150 cm from the floor level, the wires are connected to them from top to bottom.
4. All wire connections should be made in junction boxes. The connecting nodes must be reliably insulated; it is forbidden to connect copper conductors with aluminum ones.
5. Sockets are mounted at a height of 50-80 cm from the floor level. The distance between sockets and gas stoves, pipes, heating radiators should not be less than 50 cm.
6. Electrical wiring wires should not touch the metal building structures of the building (this is especially true for hidden wiring; be sure to take this point into account when laying wires in grooves).
7. The number of sockets per room is taken into account at the rate of 1 switching device per 6 m2 of area. The exception is the kitchen, where you can install as many sockets as needed to connect all household appliances.
8. Horizontal laying of wires is carried out no closer than 15 cm to the ceiling and floor. The wires are placed vertically at a distance of 10 cm from door and window openings. Electrical network wires must not be brought closer than 40 cm to gas pipes.

We hope that all this conversation we had was not in vain. You will definitely start installing the external and internal power supply of your home by drawing up a diagram. Think with the whole family about where and what equipment you want to place, put everything on paper, draw all the switching devices and wire routes. This will make it much easier for you to calculate the amount of materials needed. Then all that remains is to transfer your diagram from paper to real walls and start installation work.