Preparing peonies for the winter: pruning, feeding and covering the perennial in the fall. Peonies in autumn: all about the proper preparation of plants for winter Preparing peonies and lilies for winter

In almost every garden you can find bright and lush peonies. They, despite their beauty, are quite unpretentious. Bushes grow in one place for 10-15 years without transplanting. Despite their unpretentiousness, they, like any other flowers, require care before the long and cold winter. Having given peonies their attention, they thank their owners with beautiful, fragrant and bright flowers next year.

Caring for peonies in autumn

In spring and summer, peonies do not require special attention. During the season, they only need timely weeding and watering. Since the flowering of peonies is lush and long-lasting, and the bush is voluminous, by autumn the roots of the plants lose a lot of nutrients and weaken. Therefore, in the fall, peonies require care, which consists of pruning, fertilizing, protecting plants from pests and diseases, and of course preparing for winter.

The first pruning of peonies is carried out after the end of their flowering. When pruning, use alcohol-disinfected, sharpened garden scissors, pruning shears or a knife.

When pruning, faded flowers are removed. Leaves and stems should not be touched. Early pruning of the above-ground part of peonies does harm to the plants instead of benefiting them. Flowers, after active growth and abundant flowering, are weakened and need good nutrition, and photosynthesis occurring in the leaves contributes to the nutrition of the root system.

Withered stems of peonies in the spring are difficult to prune and there is a risk of damage to the delicate buds, so they are pruned in the fall, 2 weeks before, or during the first frost.

There are no particular difficulties in pruning in the fall. The bushes are pruned when the leaves take on a reddish tint and fall to the ground.

When pruning peonies belatedly, especially in a rainy, cold autumn, there is a possibility of rotting of the withered leaves and subsequently the roots, so pruning of the bushes must be carried out strictly at the appointed time. Frozen stems also become soft, which prevents accurate cutting of the above-ground part.

It is also not worth pruning peonies earlier; early pruning has a negative impact on the flowering of peonies next year.

Tree varieties peonies are pruned upon the arrival of the first frost. They have the following types of pruning: shaping and rejuvenating. In the first case, pruning is carried out to give the bushes a beautiful shape. In autumn, all woody stems are cut off to 0.7-0.9 meters. At the same time, diseased, dry, damaged shoots and all leaves are also cut out.

The next year, a large number of young shoots and flowers form on the bushes. Trimmed bushes are easier to cover for the winter.

Anti-aging pruning of peonies in the fall is done once every 10-15 years. In this case, old shoots are removed to activate the growth of new stems. The need for the procedure is determined when the bushes begin to grow worse throughout the season, and flowering decreases or stops completely. With anti-aging pruning, the life of a perennial can be extended to 60-80 years.

Herbaceous varieties of peonies pruned 2 weeks before the first frost. In this case, the stems and leaves are cut out completely (to ground level) or stumps 2-3 centimeters long are left.

They tolerate frost well and are pruned at the same time as tree varieties. When pruning, all sprouts of Ito hybrids are removed to the root or 2-3 centimeters remain above the ground surface. These plants form buds in the fall that protrude slightly above the ground, so you need to be careful when pruning.

All withered foliage is cut out. There is no need to go deeper into the soil, as you can hit the buds and roots. It is also unnecessary to leave tall stumps when pruning.

Upon completion of pruning of any type of peonies, all leaves and stems, as well as debris accumulated under the plants, are removed from the site and burned.

If autumn is warm and dry at the time of pruning, at the end of the work the flowers are watered with water, but not much, since excess moisture prevents the plants from preparing for the dormant period.

Feeding peonies in the autumn is necessary for their lush flowering next year. When fed, the roots accumulate useful substances and in the spring, when the above-ground part of the plant grows, they give all the accumulated vitamins to the bush and buds.

Plants are fertilized 1 month before the arrival of the first frost. When feeding, potassium-phosphorus or complex fertilizers are used.

Fertilizers containing nitrogen are not used! You can feed peonies in 2 ways: liquid and dry.

Liquid feeding of peonies is used if autumn is dry and the ground under the bushes is dry. Fertilizers in the form of tablets are used for feeding. For one bucket, take 1 tablet of phosphorus and 1 tablet of potassium. The tablets dissolve in water. Peonies are watered with the resulting solution at the rate of 1 liter of liquid per bush. If the bushes are large, then the dosage is doubled.

Peonies are fertilized using the dry method in rainy weather. The liquid method of feeding peonies is not used in case of frequent rainfall. For the dry method, granules are taken (15 grams of potassium and 20 grams of phosphorus per bush). Such fertilizers last longer than their liquid counterparts. At the same time, plants receive dosed beneficial substances.

An incomplete handful of granules is evenly scattered around the bush. For longer dissolution, they are embedded in the ground when loosening the soil.

When applying any fertilizers, they should not get on the root neck of the peonies, as this can harm the plant.

After pruning, each peony bush is fertilized with a mixture of 300 grams of wood ash and 200 grams of bone meal.

How to feed peonies in the fall, pruning peonies: video

Viruses spread very quickly among peonies, affecting a large number of plants. They are transmitted by pests and when flowers are trimmed with dirty, untreated tools.

Withered leaves and stems of peonies are an excellent place for the accumulation and reproduction of pests and diseases, so they must be removed in a timely manner. After pruning, they must be taken outside the site and burned.

A long period of rain, low air temperature, strong shading, dense planting and heavy clay soil, all this leads to diseases of the bushes.

Weakened plants are affected not only by viruses, but also by fungi. Terry varieties of peonies of American selection are especially susceptible to damage.

Only transplanted peony bushes also belong to a special risk group. In a new place, flowers go through a period of adaptation, and their immunity decreases. Prevents infection of flowers by treating them with fungicides or potassium permanganate.

To protect flowers from fungal diseases, the bushes and the soil around them are treated with a solution of Nitrophen, Skor, Topaz.

Preventative treatment of bushes against diseases and pests helps prevent the occurrence of diseases. The procedure is carried out before planting peonies. The plant is dipped in a solution of copper sulfate, Maxim, Fitosporin-M for half an hour.

Already growing plants are sprayed with one of the above preparations, and the soil is spilled with a solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Removing shoots in the fall, deoxidizing the soil with ash, dolomite flour or lime, moderate watering and planting flowers at a distance of 1 meter from each other allows maximum protection of plants from diseases and pest invasions.

Insects rarely have a significant impact on peonies, but they worsen their decorative appearance and spread diseases.

To protect against pests, bushes are treated with Iskra, Fufanol, Karbofos, Actellik.

To prevent harmful insects and diseases from accumulating in the soil, the soil around the bush is dug up before winter.

Pruning, fertilizing, pest and disease control is the first step in preparing this perennial for winter. It is important to properly cover peonies for the winter so that they do not freeze. This procedure is especially relevant in those regions where the winter is long, with little snow and very cold. In different regions, the timing of preparing peonies for winter differs due to the different timing of frost.

In outskirts of Moscow

In the Moscow region, preparing peonies for winter begins in the first days of October and ends in the last days of this month. All work must be completed 2 weeks before the onset of persistent cold weather.

In the Urals

All preparatory work in the Urals is completed by mid-October. The bushes must be well wrapped in order to safely endure the cold winter.

In Siberia, the preparation of peonies for winter continues until the beginning of October. All work must be completed before the onset of stable frosts. When carrying out work, you need to focus on weather conditions. Covering bushes is carried out only in dry weather.

In the Leningrad region

Work to prepare peonies for winter in the Leningrad region ends at the end of October. If the autumn is warm, then they can be extended until the first days of November.

How to prepare peonies for winter

Preparing peonies for winter depends not only on the region where they grow, but also on their type and varietal characteristics of the flower. Each species requires an individual approach, as it differs from others in winter hardiness.

In the European part of Russia, tree peonies do not need to be covered, but where the winter is long and frosty, the bushes require shelter. Young and weak shrubs are also required to be covered, regardless of where they grow.

Preparing peonies for winter begins with removing the leaves when the daytime air temperature reaches 0-5 degrees Celsius.

Tree peonies have fragile branches that cannot be bent to the ground. Before covering, the peony branches are divided into bundles and tied. Then the tree trunk circle is mulched with peat. The thickness of the layer depends on the region; the colder it is, the more mulch is required.

The top of the bush is covered with spruce branches. The frame is fixed with a rope, and non-woven material or burlap is spread on top and pressed down on the ground with bricks or boards.

Young bushes are covered with a 20-centimeter layer of peat, an inverted bucket or box is placed on top, which is covered with any non-woven material.

During snowy winters, snowdrifts fall on the bushes, they additionally protect the plants from freezing.

Herbaceous peonies take cover with the onset of stable cold weather. A layer of peat, crumbly rotted humus, and sawdust is used as a cover. During cold winters with gusty winds, the plants are covered with spruce branches and a layer of lutrasil or spunbond from above. When snow falls, a snowdrift falls on top.

Ito hybrids are cold-resistant, but even they require additional shelter in cold regions with little snow. Young and weak plants are covered in any case, even if the winter is warm. The soil around the plants is covered with a layer of mulch, and on top everything is covered with leaves of forest trees, spruce branches and spunbond.

In order for peonies to always be beautiful and healthy, you need to listen to the advice of knowledgeable gardeners.

• If the peony bushes have grown, they need to be replanted. Thickening of flowers leads to them being affected by diseases and pests, and complicates the covering of bushes (tree-like). This procedure is carried out at the end of August - the first half of September, when the weather is dry and warm. Peonies adapt to a new place, take root and quickly grow with the arrival of spring.
• Peonies can be fertilized only for the 3rd year after planting.
• Before pruning, peonies are covered with non-woven material at night.
• If there is a need for earlier pruning of leaves, then 2-3 leaves are left on each stem.
• The concentration of the fungicide solution when treating young plants against diseases is reduced by 2 times. Adult peonies are sprayed in accordance with the dosage.
• To protect flowers from frost, the height of the peony cover should be 10-20 centimeters.
• Cut peony foliage is not used as a covering material. It attracts pests and diseases.
• During winter, peonies can be additionally covered with a layer of snow. This serves as additional protection against frost.
• Bushes growing along fences, buildings or under trees are the least covered. Snow cover is retained on them naturally.
• In the spring, after the soil has thawed, as soon as buds appear on the peonies, the cover is removed, the mulch is removed and replaced with a new one.

When and how to trim peonies: video

Peonies, if provided with good care and shelter in winter, grow quickly in the spring and bloom luxuriantly. These bright and beautiful flowers envelop the entire garden with their aroma, delighting everyone without exception.

With the onset of cold weather they require special care.

Many people do not bother themselves with such work, leaving everything to chance.

But experienced gardeners know how to prepare for winter, and willingly share their knowledge with everyone.

Stop watering and fertilizing

After the flowering period is over, moisture is no longer needed in the same volume as during active flowering. The summer watering norm for peonies is 10-25 liters of water per bush at weekly intervals. With the beginning of autumn, there is no need for such quantities of liquid, and moisture is gradually reduced.

Precisely gradually: even adult flowers, not to mention young ones, have a hard time with immediate rejection. Remember that caring for peonies after flowering is necessary so that in the future they will delight you with bright buds, and not in order to quickly “close the season.”

You can apply the following watering scheme: 25 liters, after a week or two already 15-20, and so on until it stops completely.

Important! To achieve the maximum number of flowering buds, fading inflorescences are immediately removed from herbaceous peonies. If they want to get large flowers, then only the upper inflorescences are left.

September and early October are the ideal time to apply.

Peonies themselves are very sensitive to such feeding, and in mid-autumn it is better to strengthen them. The fact is that in the first autumn weeks, when flowering has ended, the roots continue to grow deeper, and adding a new portion of nutrients will be very helpful.

For this purpose, potassium-phosphorus solutions are used. 15 g of phosphorus and potassium will be enough for 10 liters of water. The resulting mixture is poured so that it does not fall on the neck of the plant. These same elements can also be added in dry form (they are sold in tablet form). Before such application, the bush is watered abundantly and the crushed tablets are evenly sprinkled into the hole.

Did you know? In China, a special attitude towards peony has developed, where it is still considered a royal plant. It was from the Middle Kingdom that he came to Europe.Peony is one of the main symbols of Chinese culture. The combination of such a flower and a butterfly has long become a classic image in Chinese literature and painting.

Beginner gardeners often have a question: the peonies have faded, and what to do next with them. Everything is simple here: the roots are fed with liquid from (in proportion to water 1/10).
At this stage, it is not recommended to get carried away with either strong mineral water or water. Complex formulations are also not always useful.

Trimming Features

This is the most important part of preparing for frost. It is undesirable to leave it until early spring - then the pruning shears may simply not “take” the stem that has softened over the winter. The main thing is to catch the right moment. Depending on the region, this could be either the last ten days of October or mid-November. If we take it “by science,” then preparing peonies for winter determines the best time for the first days after frost. It is important that the soil is dry.

By this time, the shoots will have already fallen to the ground, and such manipulation will not harm the plant. Trim herbaceous peonies as low as possible, without leaving a high stump (2-3 cm is enough). The entire above-ground part (flowers and stems with leaves) is removed. They are then collected and burned.

Important! Peony is readily accepted on almost any type of soil. The only exceptions are “acidic” soils and areas abounding in insects.

For tree lines, the algorithm is slightly different: they try to preserve the ground part.

Some people use cut ones for shelter, but this should not be done - it can be a good place for hibernation and breeding of pests. Leaves lying nearby are also collected and disposed of.
After such an event, some gardeners apply a combined fertilizer of tree resin and bone meal (60/40%).

Did you know? The ancient Greeks believed that peonies could heal 20 diseases. Therefore, there was not a single monastery in which they did not grow up. Until the 1800s, such flowers were used only as medicinal plants, some varieties as a seasoning for food.

There is no difficulty here, although beginners make mistakes due to inexperience. Here are examples of such “misses” when pruning:

• Early shoot removal. If the autumn turns out to be warm, the stems will grow again and have time to grow just before the frosts. A drop in temperature in such a situation weakens the plant.
• The other extreme would be to delay pruning. So the rhizome can simply rot.
• Leave a small part of the stem much higher than the ground level (3-5 cm). It is a mistake to think that this hardens the perennial. On the contrary, this procedure inhibits growth and flowering in subsequent years.

Situations are different, but you still need to take the time to remove the stems at the dacha, otherwise the last flowering risks being the last. So pruning peonies in the fall is simply necessary.

Peony shelter

To protect the rhizome from frost, holes are used. The best materials for a “blanket” are dry. The thickness of the layer depends on the weather conditions in a particular area: if 10-12 cm is enough for areas with a temperate climate, then 15-20 cm will be needed for northern areas.

Many inexperienced gardeners or those who have not dealt with peonies believe that these flowers are unpretentious to care for. However, peonies are perennial plant species and therefore, with the arrival of autumn, they require special care.

By fulfilling certain requirements, you will receive healthy and strong burgundy, bronze, pink, white or yellow buds next spring. Therefore, we decided to devote today’s article to caring for peonies in the fall.

Pruning peonies in autumn

The most important thing in preparing peonies for winter is pruning; if you ignore it, then in the spring you will have to face difficulties, since softened shoots are not so easy to trim with pruning shears. Peonies are pruned in autumn from the second half of October to the first ten days of November (depending on the region).

Peonies should not be pruned before this time, because the plant will weaken and be vulnerable to disease, as well as bloom worse next spring. The most optimal time for this procedure is after the first frost, when the faded shoots fall to the ground. Peonies are trimmed at the same level with the soil, so that no stumps remain.

If the weather is dry outside during pruning, do not forget to water the root area of ​​the soil generously. To protect plants from diseases, remove leaves and cuttings from the lawn and burn them. Most gardeners add fertilizer to the soil after pruning: tree resin (300g) and bone meal (200g).

Lush, abundantly flowering peony bushes will decorate any garden plot. Moreover, they look effective not only when they bloom. Tall, straight stems with dark green, dense leaves look great in various groups and tapeworms and provide an excellent background for most garden plants.

However, only strong and well-developed peony bushes are highly decorative. In order for peony bushes to look attractive, it is necessary to follow certain rules of agricultural technology. Peonies are usually planted in the fall. Depending on climatic conditions, this procedure is carried out from late August to September.

Planting peonies in autumn

Every plant needs its own “favorite” place. Varietal peonies love light and open areas. Light shading is acceptable during hot midday hours. A peony planted in dense shade will be weak and it will be very difficult to wait for it to bloom. Wild peonies (Maryin root, milky flowering peony and Caucasian species) are not so demanding of light. You can even plant these plants under the crowns of trees.

Selected areas of land must be well ventilated, otherwise stagnant air will provoke the occurrence of fungal diseases. Therefore, do not place peonies near buildings, tall bushes, or trees that will interfere with free air circulation.

You should not plant peonies in soil where groundwater is close, otherwise the roots of the plant may rot and it will die. Dry sandy and clayey soils are also not suitable for the normal development of peonies. To improve the mechanical composition, in the first case it is necessary to add clay, and in the second, sand.

Acidic soils must be limed (200-400g of lime). The optimal soil substrate for planting will be cultivated loam with a pH close to neutral 6-6.5.

Replanting peonies in autumn

Any experienced gardener knows that peonies are unpretentious and usually do not require replanting for 10 years. However, if you want to propagate old bushes or rejuvenate them, then you need to know how to do it correctly. If you transplant peonies at the wrong time, you will not be able to admire its lush flowering for a long time. And errors in replanting can have a detrimental effect on the plant. To prevent this from happening, it is better to follow the recommendations below.

The best time to transplant peonies is the velvet season, but if you did not have time to do this, then it is better to wait until spring. Peonies are replanted in warm and not rainy weather. In this case, moving the peony to a new place of residence will be less painful, and it will bloom next summer. The peony root will get used to the new place over the winter, and as soon as the snow melts, it will actively begin to grow.

If you replant a peony in the spring, the bush will be sick all summer and is unlikely to bloom. You will have to be especially careful with the bushes and you should not separate the roots for propagation. A spring transplant will be justified only if the flower is threatened by something more dangerous than the difficulty of adapting to a new place.

For example, moles or mice began to gnaw on the roots of the plant. It is not recommended to replant peonies in late spring and summer, since at this time suction roots have not yet formed on the rhizomes of the plant (they will appear at the end of August), but fragile buds have already appeared, which will produce new shoots next year.

This state of the plant can be compared to pregnancy - in the summer, organic processes are aimed at preparing the plant for the future generation, and not at strengthening and maintaining the old bush.

That is, if you transplant a flower at this time, it can die with one hundred percent probability. Here are some tips that you need to follow when transplanting peonies in the fall.

We've sorted it out over time, now let's talk about the transplant process itself. In principle, this is not difficult if you have at least a little experience in growing perennial plants.

The first step is to prepare holes for planting in advance (about 2 weeks in advance), with a diameter and depth of about 0.5 m and at a distance of about 1 meter from each other.

If you want to create artificial drainage, then you should dig the holes a little deeper, about 15-20cm. Place small pebbles, gravel or sand at the bottom and add water to help the soil settle better. The freshly transplanted rhizome should be surrounded by rich, fertilized soil.

It should also be prepared in advance - mix chernozem in equal parts with sand, humus, peat, manure and ash. You can add a little fertilizer (double superphosphate, urea, iron sulfate). We fill all this before planting in the hole and mix it with garden soil.

We cut off the stem, leaving a tail, approximately 15 cm long, and remove the rhizome from the old place using a fork. By removing the rhizome with a shovel, you can chop the roots. Carefully dig around the bush at a significant distance - if you feel an obstacle, then retreat a little further.

After removing the root from the ground, wash it and inspect it. Cut off any existing traces of rotting with a knife and disinfect with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Tools and any cuts are also disinfected, and it would not be superfluous to place the entire rhizome in potassium permanganate for a while and then dry it. If you replant the peony in the spring, then no treatment is necessary. The peony rhizome can be divided into two or more independent bushes.

Count how many buds are on the plant; if there are more than 6, then feel free to start dividing. How many peonies you end up with depends directly on the age of the bush. However, you should always adhere to the rule - there must be at least three buds on each divided plant.

Each division is placed in a separate hole, so that the buds are at a depth of about 3-5 cm from the surface. If the root is higher, the plant will freeze in winter, and if it is deeper, the peony will not bloom.

For several years now, peonies have regained their popularity and continue their victorious march in flower arrangements at various events. Flowers look especially chic in wedding bouquets and hall decorations. Like other flowers, they require proper care. One of the most important agricultural activities is preparing peonies for winter.

Inexperienced flower growers may think that in the fall, when the active phase of peony vegetation is already completed and the flower is preparing for a dormant period, no care measures are required. Naturally, some procedures end with the end of summer, the number of waterings is reduced, and frequent loosening of the tree trunk area and destruction of weeds is not required. But experienced gardeners know that in the autumn, in addition to seasonal care, there are also preparatory winter procedures. From the beginning of September, the following procedures are usually carried out:

• feeding of shrub varieties that continue to bloom;
• transplantation (if necessary);
• autumn pruning;
• mulching the tree trunk circle.

It is in the fall that the amount of watering is gradually reduced. It is important not to limit moisture too quickly: first reduce the amount of moisture with each watering, then reduce the frequency.

Video “Preparing peonies for winter”

From this video you will learn how to properly prepare peonies for the winter.

Preparing for frost

The preparatory stage for the winter period begins with pruning peonies and ends with insulating the bush if necessary. For those who spend most of their time at the dacha, it is easy to allocate time for procedures. The main thing is not to miss the moment and carry out activities before frost.

Trimming

Plant pruning is often postponed until spring, considering the process of dying leaves and shoots to be natural. It is difficult to dispute this fact - the flower is preparing for a period of rest. However, you can’t argue with the fact that fading foliage and inflorescences continue to draw juices from a living peony and are an ideal place for overwintering various pests and fungal spores. That is why sanitary removal of wilted, damaged and dying parts of the bush is mandatory.

Severe frosts and drying winds can destroy the flower. Therefore, shelter is simply necessary in regions with a harsh climate and poor rainfall. Since the depth of the deposit of growth buds is no more than 6 cm, the first step is to hill up the pruned shrub. Then a layer of mulch is laid on top. You can mulch the peony using sawdust, high peat, spruce branches, humus or compost.

A special approach to tree varieties

Preparing a tree peony for winter has its own characteristics not only in the pruning process, but also in terms of insulation. In most regions with not too severe winters, tree peonies do not need to be covered. They perfectly tolerate temperatures up to 30 °C when the ground freezes to a depth of 1 m. But it is recommended to cover young, fragile bushes with a thick layer of peat (at least 20 cm), and place an inverted bucket on top.

Emphasis on regional features

It is possible to properly prepare a peony for winter only taking into account the climatic characteristics of the region. The regions of Siberia and the Urals have frosty winters, so shelter is a must. In this case, the bush is covered not only with peat, but also with buckets, cardboard boxes or large plastic containers.

For the Volga region, additional cover other than mulching is not needed. In the conditions of the middle zone, in particular the Moscow region, where winters can be unpredictable, you need to decide what and how to cover peonies for the winter.

Common mistakes

Beginning flower growers or ordinary gardeners can make a number of typical mistakes when preparing shrubs for winter. Omissions or errors in care can cost the flower its life. The most common mistakes:

1. Untimely pruning of the plant. Too early (before the first serious frost arrives) will prevent the plant from accumulating the nutrients necessary for wintering.
2. Rescheduling sanitary cleaning of bushes. Leaving dry foliage is fraught with the rapid proliferation of pests and the spread of fungal infections in the spring.
3. Application of liquid fertilizers during the rainy season. Liquid fertilizer is not completely absorbed in rainy weather.
4. Wrong cover. Without taking into account the characteristic features of winters in the region, the use of natural materials, which can become a breeding ground for pathogens and pests.

Preparing a peony for winter is not the only condition for healthy growth and development of a flower. This requires a whole range of measures, including proper planting and selection of healthy seedlings, as well as all seasonal procedures.

Transplanting peonies to another place in the fall is a fascinating and easy task even for beginners. You just have to master the technology of this transplant and how to care for them. The peony lives for a long time, but it comes into full force slowly. How to help a flower take root confidently, bloom profusely every year and survive the winter comfortably - in detail in this material.

When to replant peonies - in spring or autumn

Replanting a peony is a difficult process and does not always end positively for the plant itself. Many gardeners believe that the least harm to the flower system is caused when planting peonies in the fall. What is good about this period:

• the active growth of young roots has just begun, the growing season of the green mass of the bush is ending, and replanting will not harm them;
• There is time before frost, and this is important for the peony, since it does not take root immediately;
• Autumn care for this representative of the Asteraceae is simplified due to the beginning of the rainy season.

In August, adventitious roots do not form, but suction roots appear. It is necessary to have time to transplant peonies before they form en masse. Then the roots will not be damaged during digging, and the cuttings will take root well in the soil.

In the spring, these roots form already in April, so the bush is transplanted as soon as the snow melts. During this period, sharp temperature changes are observed, which adversely affects the seedlings. Experienced gardeners consider it correct to plant peonies in the fall.

Dates for planting peonies in autumn

The timing of transplantation and measures for caring for seedlings at this time depend on the regions where the peony grows:

• south of the country (climate is humid and warm, winters are similar to autumn), transplantation - September 25 - end of October;
• Chernozem region (winters are relatively mild, frosts are usually in November), transplantation - August 20 - September 25;
• Moscow region (winters are relatively cold), transplantation - August 20 - September 25;
• Siberia (cold winters, early frosts), transplantation - August 15 - early September.

Planting peonies in autumn in the Moscow region

The natural conditions of the Moscow region can be characterized in one word: moderation. The winters here are relatively mild and the summers are not too hot.

The first frosts occur at the beginning of November, so it would be optimal to transplant the cuttings in the last trimester of September (40-45 days before the onset of frost).

Advice! Sometimes the transplant is carried out later than all planned dates. Then the peonies need special care: they are insulated with a layer of non-rotting spruce branches or oak leaves.

How to transplant peonies to a new place in the fall

Transplantation of young 1-2 year old specimens is scheduled for early autumn. At the same time, watering must be included in plant care. The stems of the peony are cut off, and the seedling with a lump of earth is transferred to a new place.

Planting adult peonies and caring for them in the fall is carried out according to the scheme of planting young divisions, but it is recommended to plant adult specimens only if necessary, when you urgently need to save a plant (rotten or deeply buried).

Selecting a location

Peonies feel good in areas where there is a lot of space and light, but there are no cold northern winds. The groundwater level should not be higher than 1-1.5 m from the ground surface. Stagnation of water, even for a short time, is not allowed.

Important! You cannot plant a peony in a place where a tree or shrub grew, because their powerful roots greatly impoverish the soil.

In this case, it is worth enriching the soil composition or changing it. From buildings, transplantation is possible at a distance of 1.5 m.

Peonies prefer loamy soil (pH 7.0), heavy, but cultivated and well-drained. If the earth is over-acidified, it is worth adding dolomite flour or lime.

Soil preparation

Representatives of the peony family are long-lived. They can grow in one place for more than 30 years, but after 5-6 years they need to be transplanted. The upper soil layer is rich in humus and biologically active, but the lower layer becomes significantly depleted during this time.

The powerful rhizomes of the peony penetrate into the soil up to 1 m deep and 80–100 cm wide. The depth of the holes dug for them is 60 cm, the width ranges from 60–80 cm. The cuttings are transplanted into prepared fertile soil.

Any organic matter (humus, peat) and mineral salts (200 g of superphosphate and the same amount of potassium sulfate) are added to 2/3 of the depth of the pit.

If the soil is acidic, add 200 g of slaked lime. In the case of clay soil - 0.5 buckets of sand.

The top of the pit is filled with earth taken from the upper soil layer.

Planting flowers

Before transplanting peonies in the fall, you need to dig them up in a certain way:

1. Before extracting the roots, cut the stems at a height of 15 cm from the ground. Digging out large bushes is not easy, because the roots go down to a meter depth.
2. They first dig them in a circle, and then, shaking them, carefully remove them from the soil.
3. Leave the plant alone for 2 hours so that the rhizomes become sluggish and do not break when dividing.
4. The rhizome is not cut, but carefully separated into several parts, trying not to harm the renewal buds.
5. Long roots are cut to 20 cm at an angle of 45°. Each divided bush should have at least 3–5 eyes and the same number of young or shortened old roots.
6. Before planting, sections are treated with colloidal sulfur or crushed coal. It is advisable to disinfect with copper sulfate (15%).

After the preparatory measures, the transplant is carried out:

• soil is poured into previously prepared planting holes (60 cm wide and 50 cm deep);
• plant the plant, sprinkle it with the top layer of soil and, lightly pressing, ensure its tight fit to the soil;
• Peonies should not be deeply buried when transplanting. Otherwise they will not bloom. Shallow planting is also detrimental for them, since the opening of renewal buds will cause damage to the root collar from above;
• the depth of the growth buds should be 3–5 cm on heavy soils and no more than 5–7 cm on light soils, so it is best to prepare holes a month before transplanting so that the soil settles well;
• actively water the flowers until the soil settles;
• Over time, the buds become bare, and to protect them from the winter cold they are covered with a substrate 10-15 cm thick.

How the peony transplant process occurs in the fall is discussed in the video:

Caring for peonies after transplantation

Filling the planting holes with properly prepared soil substrate allows the seedling to do without fertilizers and fertilizing in the first year of its life. In this case, caring for peonies in the fall consists only of weeding the grass, loosening and subsequent watering. The rhizome with growth points is close to the surface, so you should loosen the soil next to the stem no deeper than 5 cm. Away from the stem, the loosening depth is 10-15 cm.

Loosening

Such systematically carried out care forms a mulched soil layer saturated with air. Even in dry weather, the seedling will not have to be watered frequently, since this layer protects the soil well from drying out.

The next year after transplantation, peonies are visually inspected. If buds come to the surface, it is worth limiting the flower around the perimeter with a box and adding soil to the desired height. Now caring for it will include constant monitoring of the seedling. It will need to be transplanted in the fall.

If the root is deeply buried, the plant can be helped by carefully lifting the root along with the lump with two shovels and adding a little earth under it.

Pruning peonies in autumn

During transplantation, the height of peonies' stems is reduced. They are cut off, leaving short 10-15 centimeter shoots. Over the following years, autumn care consists of cutting off the stems when they fall to the ground (they are pruned, leaving practically no stumps). Usually this is the last trimester of October, less often, the beginning of November.

How to feed peonies in the fall

When planting peonies in the fall, a sufficient amount of necessary substances is added to the prepared hole, so only the next year after transplantation, fertilizing is included in their mandatory care. Stop it a month before frost.

Peonies are fertilized in the fall with solutions of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers: 30 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium salt are dissolved in 10 liters of water (used per 1 m² of land). From organic matter, peat is used in combination with humus. It is poured under the peonies at the rate of a bucket per 1 m². If there is a pond or lake nearby, then sapropel (rotted algae, silt) will be a good fertilizer. Fertilizer makes the soil especially fertile.

Common mistakes when planting in autumn

Beginning gardeners may find peony to be an unpretentious plant, but experienced gardeners know how responsive it is to good care. Here, mistakes can have serious consequences. The main mistakes made by flower growers:

1. The transplant is made to the wrong place. Peonies need sun. They can grow in the shade, but will not bloom.
2. The plant is deeply buried or planted shallowly. It requires careful care and replanting in the future.
3. They plant a very large division or do not divide the bush at all when replanting. It is unacceptable to plant cuttings with a large number of buds (more than 5) and old unpruned roots. In this case, the seedling lives off old rhizomes without developing new ones.
4. Excess of mineral salts. The gardener's golden rule: less is more. Do not overfeed!
5. Incorrect watering. Top splashing disrupts the structure of the soil layer. A dense crust is formed, which is loosened to remove weeds. You need to water with a small stream of water directly under the root.
6. The stems are cut early. Rapid formation of absorbing roots does not occur, development slows down, and the plant weakens.

Video about planting peonies:

Preparing peonies for winter in autumn

Peonies tolerate winter well, so their care is minimal. If the transplant is carried out on time, the young bushes do not need to be covered, but in case of late planting it is better to be on the safe side. At this time, plant care includes covering them with spruce branches and compost with a layer of 15-20 cm.

Conclusion

Transplanting peonies to another place in the fall once again proves that a good peony can only be grown from a young plant. It is important to correctly and timely apply the acquired knowledge in practice. And then every year these wonderful, fragrant flowers will delight everyone with their lush bloom.