Needles in winter. Coniferous plants in winter
Coniferous plants make the garden look elegant at any time of the year, create a feeling of celebration on rainy weeks, and on winter days they remind you that spring will definitely come. Growing conifers is not difficult if you initially plant them correctly, prepare the right soil composition and choose a place in the garden.
Planting conifers in spring
The best time to plant conifers in the Moscow region is spring. In spring, survival rate is better, daylight hours increase, and there is no midday heat yet. To plant conifers, I choose the time when the ground has thawed about two shovels deep, this is approximately the end of the second - beginning of the third decade of May.
The earlier you plant conifers in the spring, the better and faster they will take root.
Planting conifers in summer
It is also possible to plant coniferous plants in the summer: in the first half of June, if the weather is not hot. When planting later, when summer has finally come into its own, there is a risk that the conifers will be very sick and will not take root.
The fact is that the first time after planting, the roots of conifers cannot provide the crown with moisture, and it begins to burn. What happens is approximately the same as in the spring, when the roots are still in the ice, and the sun's rays dry out the crown, deprived of moisture.
Planting conifers in autumn and winter
Autumn planting of conifers is also possible, it is advisable to do it in time before mid-September, otherwise in the conditions of the Moscow region the plants may not have time to take root.
It is better to avoid late autumn and winter planting, which is practiced by some companies. It is unacceptable for conifers; in winter the rooting process does not occur, and in spring the crown burns from the sun and the plants die.
Place for planting conifers
When choosing a place for planting conifers, it is necessary to take into account lighting conditions, the composition and condition of the soil on the site, and the groundwater level so that the seedlings do not get wet in the spring.
Conifers with a green crown are preferable to plant in the sun. They will feel good in partial shade.
Plants with yellow, blue and variegated needles need light partial shade. Fir is placed mainly in the shade - it is extremely susceptible to spring burning until the end of May.
Soil for planting conifers
The soil for conifers is preferably loose, with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction.
- Coniferous crops are good plants on peat bogs.
- If you plan to plant pine trees, regardless of the variety and size, I try to collect a couple of bags of soil in the pine forest, collect the top layer, and mix it with the soil when planting.
For decorative conifers that will decorate the garden for many years, it is better to choose specialized soil mixtures, for example, “Magic Bed” nutritious soil for coniferous crops from the Buysky Chemical Plant. Prepared on the basis of high-moor peat, such soil contains all the necessary supplies of nutrients. As a result, lush green trees - thujas, junipers, firs and pines - will take root better, will get sick less, show enviable resistance to the vagaries of the weather, and will delight you with healthy shiny needles.
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Preparing conifers for planting
Before planting coniferous plants in the garden, for better rooting, I soak them in a solution of sodium humate or HB-101. I lower the plant into a bucket of solution or into a tank, depending on the volume of the pot, and leave it for half a day. During this time, the earthen ball is saturated with moisture, and the plants receive a supply of water for the rooting period.
How to plant conifers correctly
Before planting, I take the seedling out of the container and, using a hoe or by hand, tear apart the earthen lump to straighten the roots wrapped around it. This will allow the plant to take root faster.
In low places, planting with drainage of at least 20–30 cm is required. Sand, expanded clay, crushed stone and cans can be placed at the bottom of the planting hole.
When planting, I add humus or well-rotted compost, 1 tbsp. l. long-acting fertilizer “AVA” and the same amount of Kemira, I add a bucket of sand per plant. After placing it in the planting hole, I water the seedling with the solution in which it was soaked, and when the liquid is absorbed, I fill it with the prepared soil mixture.
As soon as the seedling is planted, I make a roll of soil, retreating 0.5 m from the crown, or wrap it with a finished tape - a border, so that later it will be more convenient to water and mulch. I also place pegs around the plant and cover it with a light cloth to protect the crown of the not yet rooted seedling from the sun. I don’t use non-fabric - it allows the sun to pass through perfectly.
Conifer planting scheme
As for the planting scheme, this is a rather insidious moment when placing conifers in the garden. Even dwarf conifers manage to grow beyond their stated size.
When planning plantings with dwarf conifers, you need to leave at least 1.5-2 m between plants. The crowns will grow and close faster than it seems, and soon the issue of replanting will have to be decided.
When, after 6-7 years, the crowns of conifers creep on top of each other, the question of replanting arises; by this time the plants are already large, and the replanting process is not always painless for them. It is no longer possible to leave them without replanting; branches growing on top of each other create an unsightly picture, and the view of the conifer garden becomes untidy.
If in the first years the voids between conifers are confusing, they can be filled with dwarf carnations, bells, spring bulbs, various ground covers, and simply decorated with interesting stones and other decorative items. Conifers grow quickly and soon nothing will remind you of the voids among them.
By force of will, you should maintain the distance and when planting rooted cuttings of conifers, adult plants will need at least 2-3 m between each other. The free space can also be covered with perennials or flowering annuals.
Caring for conifers after planting
After planting, conifers require special attention - this is the most important time in their lives. In hot weather, seedlings are watered every other day; I moisten the plants using a watering can with a strainer, watering not only at the roots, but also the crown to create additional moisture. After watering, I check to see if the roots have been washed away by water.
When planting adult seedlings, I use a watering can per plant every two days, especially if planting occurred on hot days.
I remove sun protection from conifers two weeks after planting, choosing cloudy weather for this. In the evenings on hot days, be sure to moisten the crown of conifers with water, use a garden hose with a sprayer or a sprayer.
In the first year of planting, I do not feed the plants; in the second year, I only mulch them with compost in the spring and at the end of August I water them with a superphosphate solution for high-quality ripening of the growth.
In the first winter after planting, I, without exception. I put a frame of small blocks around the plant in the form of a hut and wrap it in burlap, securing it on top with ropes. Such a shelter will save you from frost and protect you from sun rays. I mulch the tree trunk circle with earth.
Planting conifers with seeds
They plant conifers and seeds, do this in March or before winter, in October.
For spring sowing of conifers, I prepare the soil in the fall, take one part each of compost, sand and garden soil, sift it, pour it into a plastic bag and leave it in the garden to freeze. At the end of November, when I come to visit the shelters, I also take the prepared soil.
In March, I take out a low plastic box, put it on a pallet, fill it with soil, sprinkle a 2-3 cm layer of sand on top, spill it with a phytosporin solution and lay out coniferous seeds, sprinkle it with 1 cm of sand, and then with a small layer of soil and moisten it with a spray bottle. I place the seeds 5 cm apart, then thin them out and leave the strongest ones at a distance of 10 cm.
I insert the tray with the box into the bag and put it in a warm place until shoots appear. I try not to keep seedlings in apartment conditions for a long time; I put them on a glassed-in balcony. If you avoid sub-zero temperatures, the plants will grow strong and strong. I place a box of seedlings in the garden as soon as the threat of frost has passed, towards the end of May. I prepare a hole in the garden bed according to the size and height of the box and carefully move the box from the pallet into it. In the conditions of the Moscow region, it is possible to move mature conifer seedlings to permanent places in the third spring. There is no need to delay replanting, otherwise the conifers will get sick.
It is possible to sow conifers before winter; to do this, I dig a box at the level of the bed with nutritious soil, do this at the end of September, and cover it with a piece of plywood, for example. After the onset of small daytime frosts, in the Moscow region they usually occur in the second half of October, I remove the plywood and sow conifers, sprinkle with pre-prepared soil. In the spring, I inspect the seedlings and thin them out, because they will have to grow in the box for two years before being moved to their designated place in the garden.
Coniferous trees are very popular in landscape design. To get an attractive and healthy plant, you need to know and follow the rules of planting and care, as well as correctly use fertilizers for conifers in spring and autumn. Such plants in adulthood are more difficult to tolerate transplantation than deciduous crops, but young specimens show a fairly high survival rate.
How and when to plant and replant in the fall
Soil and climatic conditions in different regions of our country differ significantly, and in order to properly plant conifers on a site, weather factors should be taken into account. Planting can take place in October or November. Preparing plants for winter is a complex chemical process during which the chemical composition of cells is adjusted by reducing the amount of water and increasing the carbohydrate content. After the plant goes into so-called hibernation, it can be safely replanted and planted in a permanent place.
According to the advice of specialists and experienced gardeners, autumn planting of conifers can be carried out in August or September, at the stage of active growth and development of the suction root system. High survival rates are ensured by the ability of the root system of a coniferous plant to quickly regenerate. In any case, it should be remembered that conifers should be planted without violating the integrity of the earthen ball around the root system. In this case, the plant takes root very quickly.
How and when to plant and replant in spring
Planting blue spruce, juniper, fir and others, which are popular in our country, can be done not only in the fall, after the heat subsides, but also in early spring, even before the onset of very hot weather. The technology and rules for planting coniferous plants are as follows:
- If the site is represented by heavy and clayey soils, then it is necessary to provide the plants with drainage from broken bricks and sand.
- The distance between planted conifers depends on the growth and development of the tree: dwarf varieties should be planted with a distance of 30-35 cm, and tall plants should be planted with a distance of 50-70 cm.
- Most types of coniferous crops grow well on soils that include turf soil, peat, humus and sand in a ratio of 2: 2: 2: 1, with the addition of 0.25 kg of nitrophoska or 0.15 kg of Kemira-universal.
- A good result is achieved by adding about 8-10 kg of sawdust into the planting hole when planting fir seedlings.
- When planting seedlings of yew, pine and Cossack juniper, it is advisable to add lime to the planting hole.
Coniferous trees: planting and care (video)
The area for planting should be prepared depending on the biological characteristics of the crop being planted:
- most varieties of pine and juniper are characterized by light-loving properties, and they are best planted in open and well-lit areas;
- for the arborvitae, you can allocate a place with sufficient lighting and partial shade;
- Fir, spruce, and hemlock should be planted in the presence of sufficient shade, and yew belongs to the category of the most shade-tolerant.
Name of coniferous crop | Soil substrate composition | Component ratio |
Pine | Sand, peat, turf soil | 2: 1: 1 |
Spruce | Sod and leaf soil, peat, sand | 2: 2: 1: 1 |
Larch | Leaf soil, peat and sand | 3: 2: 1 |
Juniper | Peat, sand and turf soil | 2: 1: 1 |
Fir | Leaf soil, clay, peat and sand | 3: 2: 1: 1 |
Thuja | Turf or leaf soil, peat and sand | 2: 1: 1 |
The root collar of the plant must be located at the same level with the soil. For better survival rates, it is recommended to carry out foliar feeding with Epin. A prerequisite for faster adaptation of a plant to a permanent location is abundant watering.
Feeding and fertilizers
Fertilizing for coniferous crops is important mainly for young plants that have a weak root system. The following means are used to feed conifers:
- compost is the best traditional fertilizer and imitates forest soil well; the standard layer of compost in tree trunk circles is 8-10 cm;
- Ready-made compost-based fertilizers, including “BIUD” and “NOR”, which need to be applied in early spring, have good efficiency;
- vermicompost in liquid form, as well as in granules and powder, is applied scattered over the soil in tree trunk circles and then mixed with the soil; the best and most popular fertilizers based on vermicompost are “Greenworld”, “Pokon”, “OMU”, “Bona Forte”;
- Treating conifers with a special nutritional spray in spring and summer is very effective.
All feeding should be accompanied by abundant watering at the rate of 150-180 liters for each adult plant. Arborvitae and fir need abundant irrigation the most. It is also recommended to carry out sprinkling of conifers in spring and autumn, which allows you to remove dirt from the above-ground parts of the plants.
Trimming and processing
As a rule, when growing coniferous plants, thinning and removal of dried tree branches is carried out according to the following rules:
- pruning should be done no earlier than the second year after planting the plant in a permanent place;
- at one time it is necessary to trim no more than 25-30% of the total green mass of the plant;
- Pruning is required in special clothing, which is due to the release of resin by plants, which cannot be washed off;
- To trim coniferous plants, you should use a well-sharpened garden tool, which should be periodically treated with disinfectants.
For conifer varieties with spring flowering, pruning is carried out in August. Larch and cypress are best pruned in November.
In order to treat coniferous crops as effectively as possible, it is very important to correctly assess the type of damage to the plant. Most often, conifers are affected by larch and pine rust, blister rust and cedar rust, common and snow rust, as well as fusarium and other fungal diseases. For the purpose of prevention, tank mixtures are used, as well as insectofungicides, which are sprayed several times during the growing season.
The most widely used method is cutting to the bud, which involves performing pruning according to the following rules:
- the inclination of the cut to the kidney should be no more than 45 degrees;
- the elevation of the lower edge above the base should be about 2-2.5 mm;
- having lifted the branch, you should cut to the outer bud, and if there are inclined branches, the cut should be made to the inner bud;
- if it is necessary to rotate the branches in the tier, then a side cut is performed;
- shortening the shoots requires the length of the bacon to be no more than a couple of centimeters.
Juniper and thuja: plant characteristics (video)
When creating a crown on garden conifers, experts recommend performing formative pruning only after the growth of the shoots is completed.
Coniferous plants are decorative and easy to care for. At the very least, spruce, pine or juniper, due to their unpretentiousness, are considered residents of the “lazy” garden. Therefore, if you are planning to buy coniferous trees, then this is an excellent solution for quickly greening your landscape. And coniferous trees and bushes can almost immediately after planting become a real decoration of your garden, especially if you plant an adult plant. But young conifers are also very suitable for express gardening. In addition, decorative conifers can be planted even in winter! But they have one peculiarity. Mistakes made during relocation make themselves felt only 3-6 months after the autumn transplant, or 1-2 months after the spring transplant. Therefore, the process of planting conifers in the garden is extremely important. To make sure it goes as it should, read this article.
When can you plant conifers?
Unlike most deciduous trees and ornamental shrubs, coniferous plants can be planted almost all year round. In this case, as a rule, young seedlings are planted in the spring - up to three years old. Winter is the ideal time to relocate mature coniferous trees and bushes.
Features of spring transplantation
When to plant conifers in the garden in spring? The question is very important, because the calendar spring consists of three whole months with very different weather conditions. Spring planting of coniferous trees and bushes should be done as soon as the ground has melted enough to allow it to be done. That is, in early, early spring, almost immediately after the first thaw.
Young coniferous roots begin to grow at a soil temperature of + 3 degrees. And they are not afraid of possible frosts. If you did not have time to replant before the active growth of the aboveground part of coniferous plants began, it is better to wait until the fall.
Important! During the period of bud growth, decorative conifers cannot be replanted!
What conifers can be planted in summer
In summer, coniferous plants can be planted, but only those that have a closed root system, that is, sold in pots. But there is one unpleasant moment here that can nullify all good intentions.
The fact is that, as a rule, we cannot be completely sure whether the seller transplanted a coniferous plant into a pot from open ground before selling it to us as a container crop.
If such a phenomenon occurred, there is practically no chance that the conifer transplanted in the summer will take root in the new place. Even if the plant looks healthy when you buy it, you will create very attractive conditions for its growth.
That is why experienced gardeners do not recommend planting container conifers purchased from unverified sellers in the summer. Such plants have a better chance if planted in spring or autumn.
Autumn planting of conifers
Gardeners' advice on when is the best time to plant conifers in the fall is divided into two camps:
Some believe that it is better to plant conifers in the fall in late August - early September, when the roots of the plant are actively growing. This ensures its success.
Others argue that the best time for autumn replanting of ornamental coniferous trees and bushes is when they have just entered winter hibernation. In our climatic conditions, this is usually November.
Important! During the period when the plant is preparing for winter hibernation (up to three weeks), it cannot be replanted. At this time, complex chemical processes occur in it, which should not be interfered with.
Features of winter transplantation of conifers
In winter, you can replant any conifers. Winter, oddly enough, is the ideal period for this. But it is better to plant large adult plants only in winter! In general, “aged” decorative conifers are considered very capricious when transplanting. But the survival rate in new conditions during winter transplantation is close to 100%.
The article was prepared based on materials from the website http://evasad.com/katalog.html of the EvaSad plant nursery.
Keywords: When to plant coniferous plants, Planting conditions, Time of year, transplantation, l, thuja, juniper, pine, cedar, winter, summer, autumn, spring, planting rules, when to plant, temperature, land, soil, buy coniferous trees, Ornamental plants, Catalog, plant nursery, Kiev
It would seem that coniferous trees feel great growing in central Russia, and they are not afraid of any winter. Indeed, many of the coniferous plants are unpretentious, but even local pines and spruces may not be able to withstand all the vagaries of winter, not to mention exotic plant species. Therefore, you need to worry about how to help your plants survive the frosty time well and preserve their beauty. Each type of coniferous plant requires an individual approach, but there are some general points. So, let’s reveal a couple of secrets on how to prepare conifers for winter.
Moisture-recharging irrigation
Preparing conifers for winter begins in the fall, when deciduous trees shed their crown. At this time, it is necessary to water the roots of the plants well, about 5-8 buckets for each. Such watering is especially desirable for plantings made in this and last seasons, varietal specimens and exotics - in any year of life.
What is it for? The needles of such plants wake up from frosty sleep earlier than those of others. And it often happens that the roots at this time are not yet able to “extract” enough moisture due to frozen soil. As a result, the needles burn.
If the soil is well and promptly moistened, it will freeze less and the risk of spring damage will be minimal.
Strengthening new plantings
Coniferous trees collect large amounts of snow on their branches. And if winter also pleases us with heavy snowfall, then a sticky snow mass may form on them. This weight is sometimes too heavy, especially for seedlings that have not had time to take root. Therefore, in order to avoid them falling and prevent the roots from breaking, it is better to secure the plants with guy wires. This material will be useful for owners of blue spruce trees.
Burn protection
Cypress trees, columnar junipers, some varieties of thuja and Canadian spruce must be protected from sunburn. To do this, cover the conifers for the winter with special material.
Good for this purpose:
- sackcloth;
- wall mesh;
- woven propylene panels.
Having chosen the appropriate material, it must be placed on the plant and tied with twine, without tightly tightening the branches. There is no need to “wall up” the entire crown down to the last branch. If there are “windows” left, this is even good, since there will still be access to fresh air. If the plant is very large, then simply shade its southern side. It will be useful for fans of dwarf conifers.
Preparing conifers for winter (video)
Crown tying
Tying the crown is necessary for those plants that are resistant to wind and are not afraid of the spring sun. It is necessary to tie their branches loosely so that they do not bend or break under the weight of snow or freezing rain.
What to do, if…
- Did a lot of sticky snow fall?
“ListParagraphCxSpMiddle”>Snow can be knocked off plants using a board or pole pre-wrapped with soft cloth. There is no need to shake the trees and hit them with all your might; tapping them lightly with small dots is enough. This way you won’t damage either the bark or the branches.
- was it freezing rain?
“ListParagraphCxSpLast”>In this case, try to give the branches their original position using ties and supports. There is no need to try to melt the ice with a hairdryer or warm water.
“ListParagraphCxSpLast”>Together with artificial heat, the kidneys may wake up prematurely. When sunny weather arrives, the ice will come off on its own; you just need to support the plants until this period.
- To avoid branches breaking off under the weight of snow, in the fall many columnar and spherical forms of junipers, thuja and yew must be tied up, and in winter, after heavy snowfalls, the snow must be shaken off the branches.
- Newly planted coniferous trees and shrubs should be protected from frost and sunburn if possible. Particular attention should be paid to the burning of young plantings in the bright winter or spring sun. The reason is that the root system of plants under snow or in frozen soil is not yet “working” - it does not supply the moisture they need, and the sun and wind mercilessly dry out the needles. Many plants suffer from this throughout their lives, for example the Canadian spruce "Conica". A reliable way to protect against burning is to cover conifers during this period with spruce branches or other covering material during the winter.
- Some gardeners, even before the onset of frost, tie conifers and evergreens - thujas, conical spruces, cypress trees - with twine, starting from the bottom, or swaddle them with agrofiber (lutrasil) so that they are not destroyed by snow. In addition, agrofibre additionally protects conifers from winter sunburn, to which young plants planted this and the previous year are especially susceptible.
- In warm and snowy winters, coniferous shoots located under the snow suffer from damping off, and fungal diseases develop in damaged areas. In such winters, it is necessary to care for conifers and free the branches from under the wet snow.
- Before the onset of cold weather, it is imperative to check whether the soil under coniferous plants is sufficiently charged with moisture - it should be moist to a depth of at least 30 cm. If the soil is dry, it is necessary to continue winter watering in order to wet the soil to the required depth, because moist soil retains heat better.
- It is better to tie the crowns of conifers, as well as evergreens, with ropes or special nets for the winter so that they are not destroyed by snow. A traditional ritual of caring for conifers in the garden in winter should be shaking off the snow caps from coniferous plants - thujas, junipers, pyramidal fir trees, yews, pine trees, so that their crowns, especially trimmed ones, do not lose their shape.
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