The best homemade garage heating stoves. Garage stove - we will make an effective heating structure ourselves! The main structural elements are
We make a stove in the garage with our own hands
Unlike electric heaters, garage stoves are cheaper to operate - depending on the design, they can be heated with firewood and wood waste, woodworking waste, used engine oil, etc. To minimize financial investments in organizing heating, craftsmen make a garage oven with their own hands.
A homemade stove in the garage is made mainly of sheet iron, thick-walled barrels or pipes. There are also compact brick stoves. The design is selected based on the availability of materials and fuel, the requirements for the functionality of a garage oven - for example, it can be equipped with a hob.
Homemade stove has a combustion chamber open type, this means that the oxygen for combustion comes from the room. In addition, part of the flue gases enter the air. For this reason, exhaust ventilation must be provided in the garage. The stove is installed away from flammable objects, the wall and floor finishes must be resistant to combustion.
Consider how to make a furnace in the garage, using the example of the most common designs that have proven their effectiveness and ease of use.
Potbelly stove
The metal wood burning stove for the garage is characterized by:
- high level of heating with compact dimensions;
- "omnivorous" - allowed to use various kinds solid fuel;
- light weight - installation of the foundation is not required;
- the ability to use for heating water and food;
- a simple design that you can do yourself, having the skill of welding.
Wood-burning home-made potbelly stoves, despite external differences, consist of the following elements:
- firebox (the size of the firewood and the volume of a serving of fuel depend on the dimensions of the firebox, which affects the burn-through time of one bookmark);
- grates (a grate on which fuel is placed) necessary to create traction;
- ash pan (compartment where ash from burnt fuel gets into);
- chimney (a pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm, which serves to remove flue gases).
Attention! When planning to install a potbelly stove in the garage, decide in advance on the choice of fuel. If, in addition to firewood, it is planned to use coal, sawdust and other types of fine-grained fuel, the size of the holes or the distance between the bars of the grate should be reduced to 15 mm. For wood-burning stoves, this figure can be 40 mm.
The disadvantage of wood-burning stoves is the high rate of fuel burnout, as a result of which a significant part of the thermal energy escapes along with the flue gases. A metal furnace for heating a garage is equipped with a chimney that leads through a wall or ceiling to the street. If the chimney pipe is mounted from several bends located at an angle relative to each other, the air in the room will additionally warm up. If there is free space, a long inclined chimney is installed for the same purpose.
Scheme for mounting the chimney in the stoveFor the manufacture of a cylindrical body of the simplest potbelly stove, a 40-liter propane cylinder, a pipe or a metal barrel with a thickness of at least 2 mm is suitable. Sheet iron allows you to make a rectangular stove.
The cylindrical body can be positioned vertically or horizontally, depending on the available space in the room. The vertical stove is more compact, but the size of the firebox greatly limits the size of the firewood.
The branch pipe for the chimney is welded into the hole on the side or lid of the stove. At the gas cylinder, a hole for the pipe can be cut in the center of the upper rounded part, but in this case the stove remains without a hob. To create a more practical unit in a vertical design, a convex cover is cut off from the cylinder and replaced with a piece of sheet metal.
Cylindrical horizontal gas cylinder furnace
If the cylindrical body is horizontal, to create a hob, a steel sheet is welded to the top and its edges are provided with supports for rigidity. Or a metal burner is welded into the body.
A hole for the firebox is cut out in the side of the vertically located cylindrical body and below - for the ash pan, metal doors are installed on them - ready-made or made from a cut-out piece of metal with welded hinges and a valve. A round grate is laid on the corners welded inside the body.
If the body is located horizontally, it can be divided by a rectangular grate into a furnace compartment and an ash pan, while corresponding doors are installed at the end of the body. The second option is to weld a rectangular box made of sheet iron to the bottom of the body, in which holes are drilled or a grate is welded.
Do-it-yourself cylindrical vertical ovenPotbelly stove with increased efficiency
To increase the heat transfer of an iron stove, it is recommended to make it two-way - that is, to force the hot gas to pass through special channels inside the case, actively giving off heat to the room.
The two-way heater is made of mild steel sheet. It is important to use steel grade St10 or St20, since the construction of high carbon or alloy steel is less reliable - when heated to high temperatures the metal is hardened, which provokes cracking of the welds.
Dimensional diagram for the manufacture of a stove in the garage
Two-way wood-burning garage oven requires the use of:
- sheet steel 4-5 mm thick (for the body, chimneys, firebox and ash pan doors);
- sheet steel 6 mm thick (for the roof of the firebox, which experiences the maximum thermal load);
- pipes with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney pipe;
- corrugated reinforcing rods with a diameter of 16-18 mm for grate grate;
- rolled metal for the manufacture of legs ( profile pipe 40x40 mm, corner with shelf 40 mm, etc.);
- metal latches, hinges and handles for doors.
The above drawings will help determine the basic dimensions of the elements of the stove. To make it, you need to know how to weld metal with a continuous seam. All seams are checked for strength and tightness.
Increasing the efficiency of iron stoves
A potbelly stove of standard configuration or a two-way stove will be improved in order to increase heat transfer. The easiest way to do this is to weld metal corners or pipes to the body, which perform the function of convective fins. The total heat transfer area increases, plus the intensity of air exchange increases, due to which the room warms up noticeably faster.
A rectangular potbelly stove can be bricked on one or more sides - the masonry will serve as a heat accumulator, and the stove will continue to heat the garage even after the firewood has completely burned out. If the furnace body is cylindrical, a barrel-in-barrel construction is made for the same purpose. In this case, a special backfill between the furnace body and the outer shell serves as a heat accumulator.
The design of the furnace "barrel in a barrel" for heating the garage
The oven in the garage is made from two barrels different diameter. At the one that will serve as a casing, cut off the lid, cut a hole for the furnace door in the side part, placing it at least 12 cm from the bottom. The edges of the hole are bent inward, as is the upper edge of the barrel itself. The door is made of sheet iron, several holes are drilled in the lower part for air inflow, hinges, a handle and a valve are welded.
The made casing with an attached door is installed on a channel or brick base (it is important to leave an air gap between the bottom of the stove and the floor, so the base should not be solid). A layer of pebbles mixed with sand, dry clay or soil (not peaty) is poured on the bottom of the casing. The backfill is pre-calcined. Do not use stones of rocks that crack when heated or emit harmful substances.
The backfill layer at the bottom is lightly tamped so that there are no voids left. In the barrel, which will serve as the inner body of the stove, a hole is cut corresponding to the hole in the casing, its edges are also bent inward. In the upper end part of the body, closer to the edge, a hole for the chimney is drilled and a pipe is welded in. The rest of the lid space can be used as a hob if necessary.
The inner casing must be installed along the same axis as the casing so that the backfill layer is the same around the entire circumference. Tiles of brick or stone hewn to size are fixed around the holes for the firebox, they are attached to clay mortar. The rest of the space between the housing and the casing is filled with backfill.
Another improvement option is the creation of a heat gun based on a simple vertical-type potbelly stove from a gas cylinder or a pipe with a wall thickness of 4 mm or more. A detailed diagram gives an idea of the device of the heating unit.
Diagram of the device of the heating unit: front view, top view
Sectional view of the heating device
The lower part of the furnace from a gas cylinder is made according to standard technology. The future heat gun needs to equip a compartment for heating the air. For this purpose, the upper part of the body is cut off, a horizontal round plate is welded in, the diameter of which corresponds to the inner diameter of the cylinder. Strips of steel are pre-welded onto the upper part of the plate - they serve as air exchanger fins and increase the heating efficiency.
Air heating compartment with steel fins
From opposite sides of the cover of the resulting air chamber, holes are drilled and branch pipes are welded. On the supply side, a small fan is required to increase the intensity of the air flow. Fan power depends on the size of the room. The chimney pipe is welded below the air chamber.
Homemade oven for heating a garage from a gas cylinder
Such a garage oven is convenient to use and has a high efficiency, but its disadvantages include energy dependence, since electricity is required to operate the fan. The second drawback is that the homemade product does not have a hob.
Heater in operation
A stove in a garage for mining is a convenient option if it is possible to extract liquid fuel inexpensively or for free (such units can run on other oils, diesel fuel). The heater is a fire hazard - it is important to ensure that the fuel does not contain water, otherwise splashes of burning oil will fly out through the holes in the afterburner (perforated pipe).
A do-it-yourself heater is made on used oil from sheet metal, pipes or barrels. The fuel tank and upper chamber may be cylindrical or rectangular.
Waste oil stove design
Guided by the proposed drawing, you can make a classic furnace for testing in the garage. Fuel is poured into the lower tank, a combustible liquid is used to ignite it. The released pyrolysis gases in the perforated afterburner are mixed with air and burn out already in the upper chamber, equipped with an internal partition.
Such a garage stove is easy to assemble, but not very economical - about 2 liters of mining is required per hour of work. During its operation, the smell of burning and fuel is noticeable, the room should be well ventilated.
Dimensional scheme homemade stove in used oilA furnace for working out in a garage can be a design with drip fuel supply. This is a safer option for garage use. There are several options for such heaters, but the principle of the device is general: it is necessary to provide a metered supply of fuel and air flow to the combustion chamber.
Furnace for testing with drip fuel supplySince the oil pipeline runs along the afterburner pipe, the fuel has time to heat up and evaporate more actively, once it enters the combustion chamber. The walls of a working furnace are red-hot, so the craftsmen from the dropper stove at working out with their own hands create a full-fledged liquid fuel boiler, equipping a water jacket around the body. The water circuit makes it possible to fully warm up your large garage.
A universal option can be called a wood-fired oven and mining. Usually this is a hybrid of a small wood-burning stove, the body of which, if necessary, can serve as the upper chamber of a classic heater for testing. The reservoir for liquid fuel is located outside the body of the potbelly stove and is connected to it by a straight or curved perforated afterburner.
Another option for a hybrid stove:
- the lower part of the body is a classic wood stove;
- the upper part of the housing is removable, it consists of a cover, an afterburner and an upper combustion chamber;
- the afterburner is completed with a removable casing, which turns it into chimney when the stove is running on wood;
- inside the housing there is a reservoir for liquid fuel, which is removed or inserted depending on the type of energy carrier used.
When making such a unit, it is required to qualitatively adjust the size and weld all the elements. The convenience of universal stoves lies in the wide choice of fuel.
Conclusion
Having figured out how to make a stove of one type or another, you can choose the best option, taking into account the complexity of the design and efficiency. Making a heating unit in a garage with your own hands makes it possible to optimize the costs of creating a comfortable environment for car repair and maintenance work.
Video on the manufacture of a stove for working out for heating a garage:
Thermal equipment, safety and reliability are important. In order not to worry about anything after installing the oven, you need to initially know what nuances to take into account when installing it, with regards to the room itself:
- There must be a space opposite the door where the stove is to be installed. Its size should be half a meter larger on each side of the furnace, in order to avoid ignition of nearby objects.
- Be sure to have a ventilation system in the room, at least a natural type.
Do not place anything near the stove, especially those that are easily flammable, and make sure that when moving around the garage you do not get burned due to close contact with the heating device.
No matter how logical it seems ventilation in a garage with a heating system, it is a must. The reasons for this are as follows:
- for a car, the accumulation of moisture and condensate is categorically harmful, which is implied by the conditions of any garage, especially in which there is heating. For this reason, ventilation is necessary, it will be able to take away excess moisture with the flow of incoming air and remove it from the room;
- the accumulation of toxic and dangerous substances for the body also implies activities that are usually in a garage room. A ventilated room will exclude the possibility of toxic poisoning of the body, even with a very long stay in the garage.
Furnace types
Given the specificity of the heating garage system, it there are a number of characteristics that it must meet:
- be small;
- allow the use of solid and liquid fuel fractions;
- high heating rate;
- the ability to maintain a high level temperature for a long time;
- simplicity of design;
- budget cost;
- be easy to use;
- ease of maintenance.
Based on such compliance criteria for garage ovens, they are divided into several types. The classification is based on the type of fuel:
- Gas heating. Convenient in cases where a nearby location has a central gas heating. The price of such a system is acceptable, but there is a danger of an explosion.
- Bake, heated with solid fuel. The installation and heating costs are low, the thermal effect is good. Convenient and easy to use.
- electric oven. There will be no questions about the quality of heating for such a furnace, however, the cost of heat in the garage will not be cheap.
The best option, which is popular, is a wood-fired oven. Such a furnace can be purchased at the store, or you can design it yourself.
Do-it-yourself stove design for a garage on long-burning wood
holding on to homemade production ovens, some safety rules must be followed:
- the floor under the stove should be overlaid with a sheet of metal that will protrude 1 m beyond the door;
- protect the walls that will be located near the furnace with a brick or metal sheet;
- between the chimney and the ceiling, a gap of 2.5 cm wide should be left, which must be filled with basalt fiber;
- protect the flue from wind by installing a deflector.
materials, which will be needed for the manufacture of heating equipment for the garage (the number and dimensions depend on the individual characteristics of the selected furnace option):
- a barrel of any size and volume made of metal, with a volume of 200 l;
- steel pipes, one is longer, the other is shorter;
- a little metal channel;
- hacksaw for metal, hammer, ax;
- devices for measuring length;
- reflector;
- small steel sheet
- welding;
- brick for the foundation for the furnace;
- cement and materials to prepare the mortar.
Instructions for making a furnace:
How to make a stove in the garage with your own hands?
- It is best to make such a furnace from a finished 200 l barrel made of metal.
- The next step in the design will be cutting a circle from a steel sheet. It should turn out to be slightly smaller in size than the main diameter. In the same circle, you need to cut another circle for the pipe. Next, you need to weld a small diameter pipe to a cut out circle of steel.
- Further, the channel cut off and prepared in advance is welded downwards of the same steel circle, already with a welded pipe.
- The next step is to make a cover for the heating structure. If a barrel is taken as the basis for it, then the upper part from it will be the lid. And if the pipe is taken as the basis, then you will have to cut a metal circle of the same diameter. In the lid you need to make a hole for a small pipe.
- To ensure the possibility of laying fuel, you need to cut a hole for the door. Attach a handle to the door for easy opening and closing. The door can be installed independently, put on hinges and welded. You can use the purchased.
- Just below the main door, a hole is made for another one, through which burnt firewood will be removed.
- Before installing the furnace, the foundation for it will be an obligatory step. This is done for the reason that a prerequisite is its refractory and durable base. It is very simple to make it, you just need to lay a layer of 1 brick and cement it.
- No stove is complete without a chimney. In this case, it can be made from two pipes with a diameter of 15 cm. One should be welded on top, the other on the side and bent up.
- You should also take care of the reflectors, since fast heating and a constantly heated state of the furnace are ensured. The reflector will be able to redistribute the heat fluxes. It is especially needed in small spaces.
- The last step is to collect all the resulting elements together and weld.
Initially, you need to prepare it for further manipulations. To do this, the top is cut very evenly and neatly.
If it is not possible to use a barrel, then a large diameter pipe is suitable, to which the bottom should be welded. In this case, it is better to make the bottom in the shape of a square, and not a circle, so that in the future there will be no problems with stability.
It is worth making measurements in such a way as to ensure free movement of the channel in the interior of the barrel. This structure will allow you to press on a mass of fuel that has already burned out due to the lowering of the steel circle.
Some technical points that will facilitate the installation and further operation of the furnace:
- At the assembly stage, all parts are recommended to be connected to each other in the opposite direction of the gases.
- As a precautionary measure, it is worth determining the distance at which objects that are unstable to combustion and ignition should not be placed, as well as people should not be and mark it.
- The design of the chimney itself must be such that, if necessary, it can be disassembled into parts and cleaned, after which it can be easily and quickly assembled and installed in place.
- After installing the furnace, it must be checked for operability in different modes so that you can select the appropriate option.
To definitely avoid any problems with the homemade heating system, it is recommended to consider the following factors:
- the pipe must be at least 4 m high;
- pipes can be rotated a maximum of 3 times;
- pipe rotation angles can only be 30 degrees, in exceptional cases 45 degrees can be made.
- if necessary, bring the pipe horizontally, such a section can be no more than 1 m;
- on the street, it is recommended to insulate the pipe with basal wool in order to prevent the formation of condensate;
- ensure attachment to the wall of the chimney, removing the load from the main structure of the furnace.
Ensuring comfortable conditions in the garage requires some effort, patience and expense. At the same time, it should be remembered that it is very important to make not only the ability to heat the room, but also keep safe being in it.
A garage stove that runs on cheap fuel is an excellent solution for those motorists who do not want to equip their “car house” with a full-fledged and expensive heating system.
Garage heating - what are the options?
Vehicle owners (TC) know that the car must be left to rest in garages with a temperature of +5 ° C and above. If this indicator is not maintained, it will be quite difficult for the driver to start the engine after a long parking of the car. At low temperatures, antifreeze sometimes freezes, which brings a lot of problems during the operation of the vehicle. There are even more serious problems.
It’s easy to avoid them - to provide the very required temperature in the garage at +5. In cases where the "car house" is built as an extension to a residential building, where there is central heating, the garage is usually equipped with a heating unit, connecting it to a common network. But in those garages that are far from heated houses and buildings, you have to install autonomous heaters.
These include:
- Buleryan stoves are high-efficiency devices that operate on any solid fuel (wood waste, coal, peat, and so on). These units operate up to 8–10 hours on one tab of combustible material. They are very compact and easy to use. It would seem that - perfect option for the garage. But there is a problem - the objectively high cost of such installations.
- Oil, infrared or electric heater, heat guns - devices connected to the mains. There are no difficulties with their installation, but they consume a lot of electricity. Thrifty people do not use such devices as a garage oven, since the costs for them are really high.
- "Potbelly stove" - a simple wood-burning stove. It is well suited for heating garages. It doesn't have to be bought in a store. An elementary and at the same time very effective “potbelly stove” in operation is easy to make yourself.
Also, any driver, with due diligence, can make an economical do-it-yourself garage oven that will run on used oil. About how to make such a design yourself, as well as a "potbelly stove", we will tell further.
Homemade wood-burning stove - elementary and effective
A simple "potbelly stove" for a garage is characterized by a number of advantages:
- low cost of installation and maintenance;
- “omnivorous” (charcoal, firewood, and sawdust can serve as fuel for such a stove);
- a sufficiently high indicator of efficiency with objectively small dimensions of the structure;
- the possibility of cooking or heating food on the "potbelly stove";
- no need to build a foundation for heating device.
A wood burning stove can be made in different ways. Moreover, any such design necessarily has the following components:
- The combustion chamber is a firebox. Everyone chooses the geometric parameters and configuration of this part of the "potbelly stove" to their taste.
- Piping for the exit of smoke. It is performed in a spiral or curved form. If you plan to use straight pipe sections to create a furnace, keep in mind that their length cannot be more than 100 cm.
- Grid-irons - a special lattice on which they lay solid fuel. It is necessary to create good traction in the heating device. The grate is always placed at the base of the "potbelly stove".
- Ashpit - a small compartment under the grate. It collects ash from the burnt fuel.
The curved shape of the chimney is due to the need to reduce the speed at which the air heated in the furnace moves through the pipe. "Turns" of the pipeline trap the smoke. As a result, he does not go into the pipe, but actively gives the garage thermal energy. As you can see, such a garage oven has a simple and understandable design. We attach drawings of similar devices for heating to the article. Making a stove, guided by them, is not at all difficult. It is only important to remember two things:
- The installation of the "potbelly stove" is carried out in that part of the garage where consumable combustible materials and various lubricants, wooden elements, and objects subject to easy ignition are not stored.
- In the garage, it is imperative to make holes through which air from the street will constantly flow into it, as well as the simplest exhaust ventilation to remove waste combustion products.
We make a "bourgeois" on our own
The wood burning stove is made of metal. Can be used:
- pipe with a cross section of 30 cm;
- metal sheets 5–8 mm thick;
- barrel with walls from 5 mm thick.
Sheets of metal should be cut with a grinder into the pieces you need in size and connected into a cubic structure using. A barrel or pipe is used in the form in which they are, cutting them to the specified geometric parameters. On the back wall of the structure (or on its top), you need to mount a pipe to remove smoke. The diameter of the tubular product is taken about 12–16 cm. The thickness of its walls is 2–3 mm (otherwise the pipe will simply burn out).
Then we cut out a section for the firebox in the structure, and under it we make a place where the ash from the burnt fuel will fall. These two sections are separated from each other by grates, which are made of a metal horizontal plate with several slots (the finished product can be bought on the market or in a hardware store).
If you plan to build a fairly large heating device, the grate slots must have parameters of about 4–5 cm. For a small stove that you will heat with small wood and coal, 1–1.2 cm slots are enough.
The ash pan itself is usually made in the form of a removable metal container. It is made of steel (sheet) 3 mm thick. Such a box is easy to remove as needed and free from ash. To improve the efficiency of the device, experts advise welding 4–5 mm steel plates to the sides (perpendicular to them) of a self-made structure. Due to this, the area of \u200b\u200bcontact of the stove with the surrounding air will increase, and the garage will heat up much faster.
Heating device for burning waste oil - "gratuitous" heat
A homemade garage stove of this type is very popular among motorists. It works on any type of oil (gear, machine, shale, industrial), on stove and diesel fuel, and even on the remnants of paint and varnish materials. In terms of heat transfer to the air, such a design is identical to a conventional heater operating on electricity.
The scheme of the described device is simple. The stove is made of two containers. They are connected by a pipe located vertically. Holes must be made in this pipe. The recommended geometric dimensions of such a furnace are 0.7x0.5x0.35 m, the total weight is within 30–35 kg, the volume of containers used is 12 liters. As the latter, old compressors from Soviet refrigerators or cylinders in which propane was stored are most often used.
- From a metal corner you make 20–25 cm legs, on which you horizontally install one tank.
- Weld the container to the legs-supports.
- Drill holes on the top of the first tank and on the bottom of the second (approximately in the middle) and weld a pipe vertically to them, connecting the two containers into one structure. The thickness of the tubular product is 5–6 mm. Even better - make a collapsible design. In this case, you weld the lower part of the pipe to the lower tank, and fit the upper one tightly onto the opening of the second container. A collapsible device will be much easier for you to clean from soot and soot.
- Drill 10-14 holes in the pipe (in its middle section). Please note that holes are not made within 9-10 cm from the containers.
- Cut a small hole in the top of the lower tank, fit it with a simple lid that is easy to open and close. This hole is necessary for filling oil (another used fuel).
- At the top of the second tank, you also make a hole, weld a pipe to it and mount an exhaust pipe on it. The latter is best done from "stainless steel" (galvanized).
We hope that the drawings and videos with which we have provided this article will help you quickly make an effective stove for the “home” of your car.
Often, a full-fledged heating system is not installed in the garage. This is due to relatively rare use premises and its small area. But for long-term work in the cold season, it is recommended to make a metal garage oven, which is quite possible with your own hands. Design drawings and specifications may vary depending on heating requirements.
Homemade garage oven: parameters and operating conditions
It is important to initially determine the location of the structure. It should not take up much space, during operation it should not interfere with free movement around the garage or the performance of certain operations. Most often, the angular location of the furnace is chosen.
The manufacture and installation of the furnace is carried out according to the following conditions:
- Mandatory arrangement of the chimney. Its height must be at least 3 meters.
- Choice of fuel. The best option is to use wood, coal or diesel fuel. Much less often do electric ovens or those running on bottled gas.
- Preparation of the base for installation of the boiler, installation of heat-resistant materials on the walls.
Before starting these works, it is necessary to choose the optimal design of the furnace for the garage. The choice depends on the volume of the heated area, the presence of the hob and the total budget. As an example, consider the drawings of the most suitable homemade products.
Scheme of a simple "potbelly stove"
it the best option to save space. Structurally, the furnace consists of a cylindrical or cubic body, divided into a combustion chamber and an ash pan. It can be made from barrels. The thickness of the steel must be at least 1.5 mm. The socket for the chimney pipe is located at the rear of the structure for connecting a vertical branch pipe.
- Can be used as a body gas bottle. It is preliminarily cleaned of paint, holes are made for the doors, and a grate is installed.
- At self-manufacturing metal cases, 1.5 mm thick steel is used, the connection is made by welding.
- The intensity of fuel combustion is regulated by changing the position of the ash pan door. Thus, traction is controlled.
- Additionally, you can put a cut-off - a shelf at 2/3 of the height of the combustion chamber. This contributes to economical fuel consumption.
The advantage of this design is the ease of manufacture and the possibility of mounting the hob. The disadvantage is high fuel consumption.
Mini-boiler of long burning
For long-term garage heating, it is recommended to consider long burning. The essence of its work is the use of wood gases as fuel. They result from the smoldering of firewood. Unlike the option described above, the long-burning metal garage oven has a large fuel loading chamber, a pressure system consisting of a telescopic tube and a flat base. This block is located at the top of the structure.
After loading the fuel, it is set on fire from below. Limiting the flow of oxygen provokes the process of smoldering. The resulting gas enters the afterburner, where it is enriched with oxygen and ignites.
Design features:
- as a body, you can use a barrel or a gas cylinder;
- to enrich the gas with oxygen, a low-power fan is installed;
- the pipe for connecting the chimney is located horizontally;
- low temperature in the chimney can cause condensation, so it is recommended to use a sandwich construction.
The average operating time on one load of fuel can be 8-12 hours. It depends on the volume of the furnace and the speed of air supply to the afterburner.
Waste oil garage oven
The principle is to use fuel vapors. For its manufacture, you can also take a small gas cylinder. At the bottom is a fuel tank. Vapors rise through a pipe with holes, and ignition occurs there.
It is not recommended to use a similar model for a garage. This is due to the high probability of gas pollution in the room, since the combustion products partially enter the garage before entering the chimney. There may also be problems with fuel storage.
When choosing a drawing for a garage oven, one should take into account the complexity of its maintenance and frequency of use. But the determining factors are the cost of construction and the complexity of its manufacture.
A garage for most car owners is not only a shelter for a car or a mini-workshop, but also a place for free time. And it often happens that in winter you have to spend more time warming up the engine than the trip itself, and it’s more pleasant and more convenient to carry out repairs in the heat. Therefore, sooner or later, all motorists think about heating the garage.
Purchase or DIY?
The best choice for heatingdo-it-yourself garage oven. Preparing all the components for this will not be difficult, but first you need to decide on the type of stove. For this, the following points are taken into account:
- ease of operation;
- reliability;
- low fuel consumption.
To choose the appropriate option, you need to familiarize yourself with all types of furnace designs.
The main types of stoves
Modern heating equipment can be classified according to a number of characteristics, but the main one is the type of fuel used. Based on this, the following groups can be distinguished.
Note! Mounting gas boiler it is better to entrust professionals so that all the rules for handling such devices are observed.
Garage stove - what it should be
To select a suitable design, you need to decide in advance on several important points, among which:
- garage area;
- planned timing of heating;
- maximum budget.
Note! If the garage is made in the form of an extension to the house, then it is advisable to install a device that will be connected to the electric or gas network. If this is a separate room, then it is better to organize an autonomous system.
The oven must have the following parameters:
- cross section of the exhaust channel - 10 cm;
- weight - no more than 35 kg;
- dimensions - 70x50x35 cm;
- volume - no more than 12 liters.
This is a simple option that is ideal for heating a garage space. The most popular among motorists is a design called "potbelly stove".
Main advantages
Among the numerous positive qualities, which such a furnace possesses, it is worth noting:
- no need to build a foundation;
- ease of use;
- the possibility of using both for heating and for cooking;
- profitability;
- autonomy from communications;
- low cost;
- small dimensions;
- high efficiency.
Note! The only negative can be considered high fuel consumption, albeit relatively inexpensive. Wood quickly burns out, and the heat generated in this case does not accumulate. As soon as they stop heating, the furnace body begins to cool.
There are no clear requirements regarding the design, everyone can make a “potbelly stove” taking into account their own needs and preferences. But in any case, the stove should consist of four main elements.
- The combustion chamber is a container in which fuel will burn.
- Lattice located next to the base. It provides traction and is used for stacking firewood.
- The ash pan is installed below the grate. It is necessary to remove soot accumulations.
- Chimney.
If desired, the "potbelly stove" can be somewhat improved to reduce the consumption of firewood. For this purpose, the exhaust pipe is not installed next to the rear wall, but on top of the door. In this case, the walls of the furnace will first heat up, and only then the gases will enter the pipe. Consequently, the heat transfer time will increase.
What will be required in the work
For the manufacture of wood stove the following materials are required:
- channel;
- iron container for 200 l;
- pipes.
Refer to Drawings for Consumable Quantities garage oven, carefully examine all connecting nodes.
Step 1. First, the upper part of the container is cut off. To do this, you can use the grinder.
Step 2. The formed edges are equal. The edges of the barrel are wrapped with a hammer inside. The edges of the lid are folded in the same way, but this time outward.
Step 3. A hole ø10-15 cm for the pipe is cut in the center of the lid. To do this, you can use a hammer and chisel.
Step 4. A channel is welded to the cover. At the same time, the hole for the cork can be either welded or left for visual control of the combustion process.
Step 5. A hole ø10 cm is made under the chimney in the upper part of the body, a pipe is welded.
Step 6. A pipe of the appropriate diameter is inserted into the hole on the lid so that it rises slightly above the surface. With the help of this pipe, air will be supplied to the structure.
The oven-"potbelly stove" is ready.
Operation features
After assembling the oven, it is necessary to test it for correct functioning. To do this, you need to perform the following sequence of actions.
Step 1. First, the combustion chamber is filled with firewood by a third.
Step 2. The air supply pipe is installed and closed with a lid. As the fuel burns, the cover lowers a little.
Step 3. Firewood is inserted, slightly moistened with gasoline, a lit match is thrown.
Note! If everything is done correctly, then this firewood is enough for about seven hours of work. The heat transfer time of a wood-filled stove can reach sixty hours.
Video - Do-it-yourself "Bourgeois"
The scheme of the waste oil unit is in many ways reminiscent of the “potbelly stove” described above, but still has its own characteristics.
Main advantages
The strengths of the design include:
What will be required in the work
To design a furnace for mining, you need to take care of:
- exhaust pipe;
- a pair of metal containers with a wall thickness of at least 4 mm;
- branch pipe for the upper container;
- a connecting pipe having a plurality of holes.
The sequence of actions should be as follows.
Step 1. One of the containers with a volume of 10-15 liters will serve as the lower part of the structure - this is where mining will be fed. A hole is made in the upper part of this container.
Step 2. The cover is welded. This must be done in such a way that it can be used to regulate the air supply during the combustion of mining - for this, the lid must rise / fall.
Step 3. The upper container will simultaneously serve as a combustion chamber and heating device. The wall thickness of the container, as already mentioned, should be at least 4 mm, because the structure will heat up to 900ᵒС.
Step 4. The containers are connected to each other with a perforated pipe ø36 cm.
Note! If a one-piece cast product is used, then 48 holes ø1 cm must be made in it - 6 rows of 8 pieces each.
Step 5. A pipe is welded to the upper tank.
Step 6 A galvanized exhaust pipe is attached to the branch pipe. To ensure good draft, the height of the chimney must be at least 4 m.
If everything is done correctly, then the result will be a stove with the following characteristics:
For the full heating of the entire room, you must adhere to certain requirements.
- The oven must be installed as far away from combustible materials as possible.
- Once every two weeks, you need to clean the structure.
- If the diameter of the exhaust pipe is larger than the exhaust pipe, then the amount of soot will decrease.
- If clean material is used instead of mining, then cleaning can be done less frequently - about once a month.
Trial run of the oven
After assembling a homemade structure, you must perform the following steps.
Step 1. A piece of paper is placed in the lower container, mining is poured over it.
Step 2. Fuel ignites (after about ten minutes).
Step 3. In further work, mining must be filled proportionally - 4 liters at a time.
Note! Instead of mining, diesel fuel can be used.
For a more detailed introduction to the design, watch the thematic video.
Video - Waste oil furnace