Blowtorch works jerkily. How to repair soldering lamps
There is an opinion that a blowtorch is an infernal device that constantly puffs with fire, like the Serpent Gorynych, does not burn well, clogs every 5 minutes and explodes once an hour, forming a small Hiroshima. And in general, it has no place in the 21st century.
I can't agree with this, and here's why.
There are three types of blowtorch - on kerosene (as a rule, very ancient ones, they differ in an evaporator), on gasoline, and on gas. I will not consider the first and third ones, because gas is not comme il faut for me (more on that below), but I have never seen kerosene in my life, and there are no special differences from gasoline.
So, the principle of action is simple. Gasoline under pressure created by the pump rises up the tube. There it enters the evaporator. On a “classic” type lamp, the evaporator and burner resemble a sleeve in appearance (widening is the evaporator), on a lamp with a cast-iron burner, the evaporator is located in the cast-iron housing itself, in the form of a small tube. In the evaporator, gasoline evaporates, an increased pressure is created (which is added to the pressure of the tank), and gasoline vapors enter the burner nozzle through the jet.
This is a "classic"
Still, the lamps are those in which the gas vapor coming OUT of the evaporator, or the fuel going to the evaporator, is blocked by a stopcock. The first photo shows a lamp in which the fuel supply is cut off, and in a cast-iron one, the vapor supply.
What should I do to make the lamp work properly?
First, get it right. It doesn’t matter if we are talking about a new lamp (I, IMHO, really don’t trust the “Chinese”, I prefer the old Soviet ones, of which I have several ....), or used, I recommend doing the following:
- disassemble the lamp.
— Rinse from chips (new) and dirt and scale (old) tank, evaporator, and tubes.
- make sure that the pump pumps and does not miss the check valve. It is very important. It’s bad if you can’t pump up, but even worse if gasoline pours out of the pump during operation. Spare rubber bands can be bought at the hardware market, or at an auto shop (gasoline-resistant ones from the fuel system and from anthers from CV joints are suitable (the best is the front inner one from Niva)).
- check the jet (the hole is not cracked, the jet beats evenly). If necessary, replace. Suitable from carburetors, there are also on sale for some samples of lamps (it is better to ask around in the market (in Novosibirsk I recommend the Leninsky market)).
- grind the tap stem, in the place where it rubs against the stuffing box.
- check or replace the stuffing box, lubricate the stuffing box and all seals with graphite grease or graphite powder. An asbestos cord with graphite goes well on the stuffing box and thread seals.
- pump the lamp strongly with air (without fuel) and lower it into a container of water. Bubbles will indicate where the leak or leak is. Eliminate them. Failure to comply with this rule leads to comments like “I bought a lamp, it’s not lit, it’s all leaking, I barely put it out, I almost burned down the house, I threw this brand of “…..” away, I’ll never pick it up again, a propane burner is better.”
After these manipulations, you can rely on the lamp, it will not let you down.
Secondly, properly ignite. To do this, pour gasoline into the lamp through a funnel (so as not to spill too much), make sure that nothing spills. After that, pour fuel into the “bath” under the burner (preferably alcohol, because burning gasoline creates a kind of “cap” of soot, which stains and prevents the heating pad from warming up) and set fire to it. The volume of the "bath" is usually more than enough for warming up. On some lamps (especially the "classic" design), half a bath is enough. It is important that the flame lick the burner, that is, it is necessary to protect this moment from the wind. There are many videos on YouTube where “pros” kindle a lamp in a hurricane wind (the fire blows away completely), and then “light up” a cold burner and complain that everything is bad.
A small digression. Lamps with a cast-iron burner heat up more (the red heat of the burner is visible at night) and cool down longer. This is good, because such a lamp can be turned off for a while (for example, when moving from place to place) and turned on again without additional heating of the burner. But if you need to add fuel, such a lamp cools down longer. You can’t cool it with water, the cast iron will crack. And a lamp with a cast-iron burner lasts longer, because the cast-iron burns out less.
After the fuel in the bath has burned out, you need to quickly (until it cools down) make 7-12 strokes with the pump. If it's correct, that's enough. After that, carefully, literally "half a deca" open the faucet. We should be able to hear the hiss of escaping fuel vapor. If so, we set it on fire, and if everything is fine (a steady flame, ideally of blue color) - pump up a little more and adjust the combustion with a faucet. If not, warm up the burner again.
A few general notes:
- the jet must be cleaned with a wire smaller than its diameter. Otherwise, you'll quickly rub it off. However, with a good flushing of the lamp and clean (without sand, it is not necessary to filter through a million filters) gasoline, it is very rare to clean the jet.
- I strongly do not recommend straining in lamps, where the faucet shuts off the fuel (usually this is a “classic”) gasoline into the bath from the lamp itself. The fact is that at the same time you fill the evaporator with gasoline, and when ignited, the evaporator will boil this gasoline, evaporate it (and this is usually 100-150 grams), and the lamp will spit fuel strongly and give uncontrollable jets of flame.
- it is better to pump up the lamp after the gasoline in the bath has burned out. Otherwise, in case of an emergency (leakage of the housing or connections, leakage from the pump), you will have a burning lamp spouting gasoline. And so, if it leaks, there is a chance to notice while there is no fire yet. Again, putting out a heating pad is somewhat easier (for example, by putting it in water (most likely, you will ruin it, but the house is worth it)) than running around with a burning bath.
- You can add gasoline only when the lamp has cooled down. Failure to do this is the main reason for the termination of Freddy Krueger. But if you just need to urgently release the pressure, this can be done by turning the lamp over so that the tube through which gasoline enters the burner is above the fuel level (that is, so that the burner is perpendicular to the ground, looking up). Pretty soon, the fuel in the evaporator and tube will burn out, and air vapor will come out.
- the best fuel is galosh gasoline (in some versions - "galosh").
- A serviceable lamp does not stink of gasoline during storage.
- no need to overfill the lamp. Those same 1/4 of the volume will not make special weather, you should not risk yourself.
And, the last. Why a lamp can be useful (non-exhaustive):
- kindle a fire from wet firewood.
- a source of heat in the cold (for example, when repairing a car on the road, you can also heat the tools so that they do not freeze to your fingers). Unlike gas, it always works. As for me, it's better to be a little "smoked" than to freeze everything that is possible.
- heating of an enclosed space (with very great care). So, by the way, the tankers of the Second World War were warming themselves.
- cooking (when using special tagankas). They will object to me that "there will be an ear with the smell of an old bus." Maybe it will (although the taste of tea does not change, with a normal flame), but there are places where there is either a strong wind (the fire just “takes away”), or there is no firewood, or they are completely wet. For me, than fighting a fire in a hurricane (risking burning a tent, starting a forest fire, inhaling smoke), subtly maneuvering a pot in search of a flame (and getting burnt or cold food), it’s better to cook on a lamp.
ADDED LATER
My story about lamps will not be complete if I do not mention two more of my favorites.
The first - she is 40 years old, inherited from her grandfather. They call it differently, and “UAZ blowtorch”, and “GAZ-69 blowtorch”, and “GAZ-66 blowtorch”, and “GAZ blowtorch”. As far as I know, it was produced in "shaggy" times, and, it seems, all-terrain vehicles were equipped with it.
Its peculiarity is as follows. As I said, on the “classic” (the one with the “sleeve-shaped” evaporator), as a rule, the flow of gasoline is blocked, while the exit of vapors is free. On the “cast iron” (by the way, I saw these in the store, they cost more than 2000, they are expensive (it’s good that I bought a used one for 400 rubles on the “flea” and brought it to my mind)) the vapor outlet is usually blocked. And on this lamp there is a “sleeve-shaped” steel evaporator, but the faucet blocks the exit of vapors, that is, like on a “cast iron”. During my life I saw several similar models, the same device.
The pump on this lamp is soldered into the body, it is non-removable, which is somewhat inconvenient, if you need to fix the check valve, you have to unscrew it with a large screwdriver. The filling hole is quite narrow, you need a funnel. Other than that, the lamp is great! Kindled quickly (even by completely barbaric methods), gives a powerful pure blue flame, about half a meter long! Convenient storage for small items in the handle. Another very useful point is three futorki for cleaning - two opposite the evaporator tubes, one at the top of the main pipe on which the evaporator and the faucet as a whole are mounted. The locking screw rubs against the jet, which is very good, since the steel-to-steel contact (as on most lamps) is much worse than steel-to-brass.
An important nuance. I strongly discourage (emergencies do not count) lighting such lamps by drawing fuel directly from the evaporator. The fact is that when heated, gasoline expands very much, they say that 8 times (I doubt it (I think more), since that tight powerful jet of gases emanating from the jet of any lamp is not pumped air, namely those same pairs; it’s easy to check - you just need to pump up the lamp to normal pressure and bleed the air (pumped up) through the jet (how much is enough, huh? Enough for an hour of work?)). Accordingly, if you kindle the usual “classic” in this way, you will get the same uncontrolled fountain of flame, but if you decide to kindle the lamp described above (or similar in design), then it can be broken by the pressure of gasoline vapor from a full evaporator, especially if it is poured into the lamp "from the heart", and the lamp is already pre-inflated with air (we get a "small volume" + "fuel vapor" + "air pumped in advance" = "bigbadabum").
However, if you really need to kindle it like that, then you can try to do this (let's say you freeze on the road). Pump up the lamp a little, pour fuel into the evaporator bath or into the evaporator inner tube itself (in which it burns), if you can’t reach the bath with a trickle, and then bleed the air with a pump (or filler neck), and after that, with the tank open, open the shut-off cock and allow gasoline to drain from the evaporator into the reservoir. But you need to understand that some amount of gasoline will still remain in the evaporator (depending on its configuration, tube pollution, and much more). Then, of course, close all the holes in the lamp back, and set fire to the fuel.
The second is a Soviet pumpless small-pussy. Was bought at a flea market for a penny just as a souvenir. Then I decided to fix it and try it.
Surprisingly, everything was great! On YouTube and on forums, pumpless lamps (both this model and its Ukrainian “colleague” now on sale) are desperately scolded. The arguments are the same - clogged, does not burn, "paint and throw away." And as a rule, this video shows another “figure” who, having scooped up an incomprehensible substance from a ditch, begins to kindle this lamp in a hurricane wind, when the fire “licks” anything (sometimes the operator himself), but not the lamp evaporator. Then there is a demonstration of "the inoperability of this creation of a gloomy genius." Some don't heat up at all.
I really want your lamps to work for a long time and please you, giving you only positive emotions with their “frrrr”. This is the point of this article.
So, as I already said, this light bulb is PUMPLESS, the size of a glass. On some of the lamps there is a tap that shuts off the vapors, on some it is not (these lamps do not regulate the flame; they dampen them by releasing the gases through the filler plug). The pressure inside the lamp is created by heating it. There is no evaporator on my lamp as such, its role is played by a massive valve on which the nozzle is attached. The lamp is ignited due to the burning of fuel poured (from a separate container !, it is impossible to drain from the lamp) into the recess near the valve. From combustion, both the valve itself and the nozzle, which transfers heat to the valve, and partially, the tank heats up. From this heat, the pressure in the tank rises and, when the fuel burns out, the lamp can be lit. If it burns at least somehow, you can just wait, then after a minute or two the heat from the heating nozzle will be transferred to the valve and tank, and the lamp will finally go into operation. Even if the lamp “spits” a little, but at the same time it burns, most likely it will go into mode. Although, in the cold it is better to warm it a little more. In the normal state, the lamp tank is HOT, it is difficult to keep it in the river (approximately 70 degrees), so hold the lamp by the handle; This is not a malfunction, but a normal, working condition. The more the tank is heated, the more pressure it has, which pushes gasoline into the evaporator (which is not there, its function is performed by a massive valve) and compensates for fuel consumption.
What are the advantages:
- compact. Compared to a gas burner, a dichlorvosnik takes up much less space.
- very economical. At one gas station (about one hundred grams of gasoline) it burns confidently for about an hour, giving a steady flame of 10 centimeters long.
- safety. She has a very thick balloon, and it is impossible to “pump” her.
The disadvantage is a small hole in the jet. As a result, it can easily clog when using dirty gasoline.
Ah, one more moment.
When working with the "classic", you must remember that it has the effect of inertia. The fact is that in the operating mode, the pressure in the evaporator (from which vapor flows freely) is almost constant. Therefore, if you decide to add power, then you need to wait a little (a couple of seconds) until the gasoline that you let into the evaporator evaporates and fills its volume with itself (if you open it sharply and “from the heart”, you can get a big flame or spit gasoline). Accordingly, when you close the fuel supply valve, you need to wait a bit until the entire volume of gases in the evaporator burns out, that is, the lamp goes out slowly, gradually. These are its features, you just need to remember them.
Among the common causes of blowtorch breakdowns are the following:
- Incorrect operation.
- Tool overheating.
- The device, which has not yet cooled down, is also connected to the mains, filled with a fuel mixture or left in open form tank cover.
- There is no tightness of valves and joints of pump parts.
But even if you use a blowtorch correctly, this does not guarantee that the instrument will not be damaged. Knowing the weak points of the product, you can repair the blowtorch with your own hands. Without determining the cause, it is not worth doing repair work.
How to repair a blowtorch pump
A pump malfunction in the instrument is indicated by a hiss and other sounds of unknown origin. Don't delay repairs. Switch off the appliance by pulling out the socket. Next, proceed to the restoration of the fuel supply process. For repair work, the usual set of tools for the house is useful.
Step-by-step pump repair instructions consist of the following steps:
- Unscrew the plug located on the cover.
- Pull the pump out of the bottle.
- Using a screwdriver, remove the spool located on the valve.
- Clean the component from dirt and sticking.
- Replace the old spring with a new one.
- Decide on the connection points of the pumping part and the casing. Lubricate them with an even layer of engine oil.
- Assemble the soldering tool following the reverse order of lamp disassembly.
If there are problems with the supply of fuel and air mass
In this case, prepare a straight-tip screwdriver, pliers, a needle, and thin wire. The problem of fuel supply is fixed by the appearance of foam and its seepage through the base of the nozzle. Most likely the jet is clogged.
Repair work involves the following sequence of manipulations:
- If there is a visible small gap, the needle is carefully inserted into the calibration recess and the fuel tube is cleaned with it.
- If a positive result is not expected, the jet is removed.
- The wire is placed in the hole of the fuel tube.
- Next, open the valve.
- Pour gasoline into the channel. Do the manipulation carefully and slowly.
- Assemble the structure into a single whole, put the jet in place.
- If a flame appears from under the stem, extinguish the fire.
- Dismantle the valve handle and replace the worn gland packing with a new one in the intake needle.
If the air pressure indicators on the inner surface of the chamber are violated in the blowtorch, the repair is carried out based on the channels that function to supply the air jet. The master should remove carbon deposits by flooding the channels with trichlorethylene. After that, to wash the rust formed on the walls, rinse the channels with acid, dry by blowing with compressed air.
Work is performed in special gloves. It is also better to protect your eyes with goggles.
A video instruction on how to repair a blowtorch with your own hands can be viewed further: How to avoid regular repairs
In order to repair the blowtorch infrequently, you must follow the instructions for using the unit. We are used to turning on a blowtorch indoors. But then it should be remembered that the tool should be in working condition no longer than 15-30 minutes. After use, the room is thoroughly ventilated.
While the design of a blowtorch is simple, it also has problems that interfere with normal operation. And in the presence of some malfunctions, it is forbidden to use a blowtorch. But in most cases, repairs are easy to do on your own, which will eliminate downtime and make the use of the tool safe.
The most common blowtorch malfunctions are as follows:
- there is no pressure in the body or the pressure necessary for normal operation is rapidly decreasing;
- there is no flame due to the fact that the fuel jet from the nozzle does not meet the required parameters;
- fuel seeps through joints and seals;
- instead of spraying, a jet flows out of the jet.
Some malfunctions can be eliminated by having at hand essential tool. Usually, repair work consists in cleaning individual components.
Sometimes the breakdown is so serious that it is impossible to repair the tool without spare parts used for the blowtorch. Fortunately, there are many repair kits available in hardware stores and on specialized sites on the Internet.
The reason for the lack of pressure in the lamp may be a faulty pump. It is replaced or repaired by hand. fast downgrade pressure occurs if leaks threaded connections, working and safety valves.
The problem is solved by replacing the gaskets, cleaning the surfaces of the covers and valves in contact with the body.
There is no burner flame if the jet of fuel coming out of the nozzle is very weak or intermittent. This can happen due to contaminants that have entered the lamp with low-quality fuel. In this case, it is necessary to clean all channels and the jet with suitable tools and flush the lamp with clean gasoline.
Fuel seeps through the seals of the control valve if the stuffing box packing, which is a sealing gasket between the valve body and the valve, has lost its properties. Repair of a malfunction consists in disassembling the valve and replacing the gland packing.
If fuel squirts out of the burner, the reason is most likely that the orifice of the jet is not up to standard. Before that, you need to make sure that the tool is really well warmed up. If this kind of problem persists during warm-up, the burner jet must be replaced.
Necessary repair tool
Repairs may require the following tools:
- adjustable wrench;
- screwdrivers;
- pliers;
- small brush;
- sewing needle or thin steel wire.
Materials may include gland packing, steel washers and nuts, gasoline or kerosene.
With a wrench and screwdrivers, you will need to disassemble the tool and its components in order to provide access to the faulty part. Pliers will be required if you have to hold the needle to clean the jet hole without disassembling the burner. In addition, it is convenient to hold any screws from turning with pliers during assembly and disassembly. A brush is needed to wash off dirt that has entered the body and burner. It is desirable that the brush be long with stiff natural bristles.
Pump repair
The blowtorch pump consists of a piston enclosed in a metal housing and a spool, which is installed at the end of the piston tube and works on the principle of a check valve. It allows air into the case and does not pass back.
At the end of the piston is a leather cuff that pushes air as it moves into the lamp, and rolls up to let air through as it moves in the opposite direction.
This part is just a circle of leather, sandwiched between two steel washers of different diameters. The upper washer is almost equal in diameter to the diameter of the cylinder, and the lower one is several millimeters smaller. As a result, the cuff is able to inflate while only folding to one side when needed. To increase the life of the seal from repair to repair, it must sometimes be lubricated with grease.
Most often, the spool or cuff is faulty. Repair of the blowtorch pump will consist in replacing them with serviceable ones. The best option for repairs will take working parts from a non-working old blowtorch, if possible. If you could not find them, you will have to buy these parts.
The cuff, however, can be cut from a suitable piece of leather, or from any suitable cuff for another pump.
Jet cleaning
The jet, as already mentioned above, can either become clogged with dirt from low-quality fuel, or carbon deposits from its combustion. In both cases, cleaning can correct the situation. If you need to use the lamp very urgently, you can try to clean the jet with a needle clamped in pliers. But in this case, the pollution will get inside. Immediately after completing the work, it is necessary to disassemble and clean the entire blowtorch.
If there is no hurry, it is better to unscrew the jet from the burner and try to blow it with compressed air from a compressor or from a special canister. Only if this method did not give results, you can carefully use mechanical cleaning during repairs.
After cleaning the jet, it must be washed in gasoline and dried before installation in the burner.
Handling old lamps
Old blowtorches that have not been used for a long time must first be inspected from the outside. During the inspection, you need to check how easily all the valves open, the tank cover. The adjusting valve must turn easily.
After that, you need to check the housing for leaks. To do this, the pump pumps air into the lamp, not filled with fuel. Then a thick soapy solution is applied with a brush to all threaded connections, a tap. You need to check in the closed state and in the open.
If all connections are tight and the pump properly pressurizes the housing, the valve performs its functions, opening and closing the burner, you can fill the lamp and start it up.
Repair of blowtorches, widely used in everyday life, is quite possible on your own. The device is designed for soldering metal parts, it is also used to remove paint and varnish coatings from the metal surface. Only a working blowtorch should be used, so the device should always be maintained in working order. If a sudden breakdown occurs, quickly repairing the lamp on your own, you can continue to work.
Why can a lamp fail?
The device is used for rapid local heating and experiences significant loads that can disable it. To prevent serious damage when using a lamp, you must follow safety rules.
Lamps break due to improper operation and overheating.
When the appliance is turned on or hot, do not refuel or open the lid of its tank. It is also necessary to monitor the tightness of the valves and pump connections. Proper operation will avoid complex repairs or the purchase of a new device.
Even with preventive measures, breakdowns can still occur. Therefore, it is advisable to always have at hand the minimum set of tools necessary for repair. You need to know the device and the weak points of the device, which will allow you to quickly and efficiently repair the blowtorch. Only by accurately determining the malfunction and finding out the cause of the breakdown, you can proceed to self-repair the tool.
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Restoring the pump
If hissing or other extraneous sounds appear during operation, you must immediately turn off the lamp, as the operation of the pump may be impaired. In such a situation, it is necessary to restore a stable supply of fuel. For repair you will need tools:
- pliers;
- screwdriver.
Materials:
- spring;
- lubricating oil.
Perform the following actions:
- Unscrew the plug located on the lid and remove the pump from the cylinder.
- Remove the spool on the valve with a screwdriver.
- The element is cleaned of contaminants and the spring is replaced in it.
- Docking areas of the pump and housing are lubricated with engine oil.
- Assemble the lamp, following the reverse procedure for mounting the pump.
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Troubleshooting fuel and air supply problems
To repair a blowtorch, you will need a screwdriver, pliers, and thin wire.
If the fuel is not supplied correctly when the valve is opened, such as foaming or seeping through the base of the nozzle, the jet may be clogged. Then you should repair the blowtorch using the following tools:
- needle or thin wire;
- straight screwdriver;
- pliers.
Materials:
- petrol.
Repair is carried out by performing the following steps:
- If there is a small blockage, then clean the calibration hole of the fuel tube with a needle.
- If there is no result, the jet is dismantled.
- Then the wire is pushed into the hole in the fuel tube.
- Then open the valve and carefully and carefully wash the channel with gasoline.
- Assemble the lamp by mounting and fixing the jet.
- If a flame appears from under the rod, immediately extinguish the fire.
- Then the valve handle with the plug is removed and the gland packing is replaced in the intake needle.
The lamp may be disturbed by the level of air pressure inside the chamber. In order to repair the device, it is necessary to remove carbon deposits from the channels used for air supply by washing them with trichlorethylene. Then it is advisable to wash all the rust removal holes with acid and blow with compressed air. After such a procedure, the device will not require repair for a long time.
Blowtorch is a portable flame torch used to heat parts. This adaptation is widely used in everyday life, therefore there is a huge probability that the lamp may break. It is possible to repair this adaptation even at home.
You will need
- - screwdriver;
- - needle;
- - wire;
- – oil for lubrication;
- - pliers.
Instruction
1. All tools used in everyday life have their own "Achilles' heel". The most common malfunctions of a blowtorch include the failure of the pump, with the help of which pressure is built up in the “fuel” tank, and clogging of the jet. Slightly less likely to encounter a malfunction stop valves.
2. Observantly look around the soldering iron lamp and determine the problem. Most likely you will find out the reason that led to this breakdown.
3. If, after opening the valve, the “fuel” oozes or bubbles, but is not supplied properly, then the problem is rooted in the jet. Clean the calibrated hole with a needle. If there is no result, then this component of the portable burner will have to be cleaned a little differently.
4. Unscrew the jet and try cleaning it again. After that, insert a thin wire into the fuel pipe, open the valve and flush this channel with gasoline. After the procedure, install the jet in place and fix it.
5. A blowtorch malfunction may manifest itself in the fact that during the operation of the burner, hissing or other third-party noises are heard. The snag in this case is rooted in a malfunction of the pumping device.
6. In order to eliminate the malfunction associated with the operation of the pumping device, unscrew the plug and remove the pump to the outside. Remove the spool, the one on the pump valve, clean this burner structural element from blockages and replace its spring. Lubricate the cuffs on the rod with engine oil.
7. If during operation of the blowtorch a flame begins to blaze from under the stem, extinguish the fire, and later remove the valve handle and plug and then change the stuffing box of the intake needle.
In anticipation of the winter cold, a caring owner is obliged to check the performance of the blowtorch. In order to avoid incidents related to the fact that it is at the very moment when something urgently needs to be heated up, it just turns out that it is unthinkable to do this due to a non-working device.
You will need
- - screwdriver
- - pliers.
Instruction
1. Particularly frequent failures in the operation of a blowtorch occur due to a clogged jet or a malfunction of the pump that pressurizes the gas tank. Valve failure is very rare.
2. Let's start in order.
3. First. If, during the pumping air pressure into the fuel tank, a hiss is heard from under it, or gasoline penetrates in and is squeezed out by the rod moving upwards, then the pumping device is repaired. For this purpose, the plug is unscrewed, the pump is taken out and disassembled. A valve is installed at the air outlet of the pump, consisting of a spring and a ball adjacent to a ground seat. The spool is disassembled, cleaned of debris and its spring is replaced (if it is damaged by corrosion or bent). At the time of assembly of the pump, the condition of the cuff on the rod is checked, if satisfactory, it is lubricated with engine oil. In the opposite case, it is replaced with a new one, after which the pump is assembled and installed in a regular place.
4. Second. The air pressure in the tank is increased, but after opening the valve, gasoline is not squeezed out of the jet, but bubbles and drips. Try to clean the calibrated hole with a needle from the kit. If it does not work, then the jet is unscrewed and cleaned. After that, you need to crawl with a thin iron wire in the fuel pipe, then open the valve and flush the channel with gasoline, and screw the jet into place.
5. Third. Later, after the lamp has flared up, gasoline is squeezed out from under the valve stem and ignites. To eliminate dangerous manifestations, the flame of the device is extinguished, the residual air pressure is bled from the tank, the valve handle is removed from the stem, the plug is unscrewed and the gland packing of the locking needle is changed. Later, all previously dismantled parts are returned to their places.
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Note!
During the execution of work, it is necessary to consider that the blowtorch is a source of increased fire danger. Therefore, during its repair, primary fire extinguishing equipment must be in close proximity to you.
Household blowtorches are used for heating containers with non-flammable liquids, repair work, soldering and heat treatment. They are systematized by the type of fuel used - gasoline, gas and kerosene. Gas blowtorches or burners are considered the most modern and comfortable to use. But fans of gasoline zealously defend their judgment.
Instruction
1. High-tech gas blowtorches combine ergonomic design and high safety in use. They can work independently from disposable gas cylinders and from refillable ones. Piertable cylinders without a valve are quite cheap. The body of the lamp itself can be plastic or metal.
2. Universal gas lamps work on 2 types of cylinders, they are attached to them with a thread. Such equipment is super-compact, which is very convenient for storage and transportation. Another superiority of a multifunctional lamp in the probability of disconnecting gas bottle at every moment.
3. Take a look at the high-tech lamps that work on the new KEMAP valve cylinders. These aluminum-bodied cylinders contain a special blend of petroleum based liquefied gases (LPG) for high soldering performance. Previously, this was achieved only with the use of acetylene. If you are an expert in soldering and welding, a lamp powered by these cylinders is your choice.
4. There is gas-burners, which also work from domestic propane cylinders. They are hefty strong, loyal and have versatility when choosing a gas source. Use a hose of any length for work. For roofing choose lamp, which is equipped with a long nozzle and a lever for a rapid increase in the flame.
5. For those who like to make new electrical appliances, there are gas micro-soldering irons, and the gas tank is inside them. Before use, it is filled with gas from a lighter can. This is also a good idea for a present for a man with skillful hands.
6. Petrol blowtorches provide hefty high temperature heating - up to 1100 degrees. The strength of her flame can be easily adjusted. Lamps that run on kerosene and second grade gasoline are used to heat huge soldering irons and to work with hard solders.
7. There are some pros and cons for both lamps, but there is a wonderful way out - a multi-fuel universal burner. It runs on any type of fuel from diesel to gas, but such a unit costs about 6-7 thousand rubles.
Energy-saving lamps are designed to illuminate not only residential premises, but also social institutions. Their difference from other lamps lies in the table of contents of 5 mg of mercury in the form of vapors, which, if improperly disposed of and processed, poison the soil and air, which leads to irreversible consequences for human health and environment. Therefore, the entire user of energy-saving lamps must know the methods of their disposal.
Instruction
1. Take the burnt out energy-saving lamps to the regional DEZ or REU, where containers specially prepared for this must be installed. And from there they are sent to special enterprises, the main action of which is the processing of energy-saving lamps.
2. If there are a lot of lamps, which is important for offices and enterprises, then it is better for everyone to conclude an agreement with a company that accepts and subsequently disposes of waste containing mercury.
3. Energy-saving lamps should preferably be delivered in their original packaging. If it is not preserved, wrap the lamp in paper so that it does not break during transportation.
4. If the lamp is broken, then its fragments cannot be swept away with a broom or collected with a vacuum cleaner, so as not to disperse harmful mercury vapors in each apartment. Treat the place where the lamp was broken with a freshly prepared solution of potassium permanganate to bind mercury. After this, ventilate the room well in order to completely get rid of mercury fumes. Collect the remains of the lamp in a glass container, which then will need to be tightly closed with a lid, and hand it over to a specialized organization.
5. Utilization of energy-saving lamps is carried out in two ways. One of them is to wash, grind and further process the used lamp with special chemicals that combine mercury into a more harmless compound. Another method is thermal. The pre-broken lamp is heated, as a result of which the mercury evaporates. Its vapors are condensed and collected in order to be used in the manufacture of new lamps.
Note!
The main thing to remember is that energy-saving lamps cannot be thrown into the garbage chute and container near the house.
Useful advice
Mercury-containing waste, including energy-saving lamps, is disposed of by isolating them from the environment. Doing this on your own is by no means impossible.
The UFO-lamp is prepared for health-improving procedures. Irradiation with ultraviolet light has the right effect on the processes occurring in the body, and also helps to improve the condition in certain diseases.
Instruction
1. The UV lamp is used to increase the body's resistance to infections (influenza, acute respiratory viral infections, etc.), for the prevention and treatment of rickets in pregnant and lactating women, and in children. It is used to treat pyoderma, pustular diseases of the skin and subcutaneous tissue, to improve recovery processes in fractures, to normalize immunity in chronic inflammation, to stimulate hematopoiesis (the process of hematopoiesis), to compensate for the lack of sun.
2. Dosed irradiation with a UV lamp has a positive effect on the body. The procedure regulates blood circulation, speeds up metabolism, increases immune activity, promotes the work of defense mechanisms during epidemics of viral infections. The UV lamp has a negative effect on the retina of the eyes, so the procedure must be carried out in special glasses. Instead of them, it is allowed to place cotton pads on the eyelids. Some people, due to the characteristics of the body, are not able to tolerate unnatural radiation, therefore, during the procedure, it is necessary to control their condition. UV therapy sessions are not suitable for people who experience dizziness, headaches, nervous irritation, etc. during the irradiation process.
3. Before the session, moderately treat the skin with cream or oil, apply them in a thin, even layer. Turn on the lamp and wait 5 minutes for it to warm up. Place the working surface of the device at a distance of 10-50 cm from the surface of the body. If you need to carry out local skin irradiation, limit the diseased area from the healthy ones with a towel, sheets. For local irradiations (say, the mucous membranes of the nose, throat), before turning on the lamp, install a special tube in the opening of the device screen.
4. The 1st session should last no more than 1 minute, after that you can start to gradually increase the duration of the procedures up to 5 minutes. Ultraviolet radiation of the mucous membranes of the nose and throat in order to prevent influenza ARVI spend for 1 minute on any area. Every 3 days, increase the duration of the session by 1 minute until you reach 3 minutes. The course is 10 procedures. During the acute stage of the disease, irradiation is not carried out. Contraindications to the use of a UV lamp are the following ailments: severe kidney damage, heart damage with circulatory failure in the 3rd stage, coronary artery disease, stage II-III hypertension, severe exhaustion, bleeding tendency, anemia, skin diseases, hyperthyroidism. The UV lamp is not prepared for tanning.
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Note!
Observe safety rules during operation and repair of the blowtorch.
Useful advice
If the condition of the cuff on the stem is unsatisfactory, then by all means replace it with a new one.