Heating systems for country and country houses. Boilers, geysers, water heaters - Repair, service, operation. Recommendations for assembly and installation. Bosch gas boiler
Wall-mounted gas boiler Bosch GAZ 6000 W, used for heating systems, as well as supplying the consumer with hot water. P horse on which boiler Bosch GAZ 6000 W is able to provide a high level of tthermal comfort reaches 350 square meters.
Before reviewing, it should be noted that the company Buderus joined the Robert Bosch GmbH in 2003. moreover, the Bosch company for Buderus produces a boiler with exactly the same constructive brand Buderus U072 - 24K. U.G basic boiler Bosch GAZ 6000 Ware currently being issued for 12, 18 and 24 kW.
Buderus U072-24K the exact same line is presented for 12, 18, 24 kilowatts, the only difference between Bosch and Buderus boilers is the control panel and button design. Other programmable parameters, the entire control system, connection parameters, components from which it is assembled, as well as identical dimensions.
Wall mounted gas boiler Bosch GAZ 6000 W. Characteristics
Let's now focus on the Bosch GAZ 6000 W with a power rating of 24 kW. The boiler has a rather pleasant design. On the front side we see: the Bosch logo, control panel, on the right is a pressure gauge. A hint for users how to operate the boiler is pasted. On the left side there is a nameplate with all technical characteristics models .
Wall-mounted gas boiler Bosch GAZ 6000 W power 24 kW
Gas boiler Bosch GAZ 6000 W Detailed description
The overall dimensions of the model for 12, 18, and 24 kW are the same, since they are assembled in a single housing. It is worth noting that the Buderus U072-24K boilers have the same dimensions. Height 700mm, width 45mm, depth 299mm. There is a 35 kW boiler model, it has a different body and, accordingly, other dimensions. The unit develops a maximum power of 24 kW for heating and 24 kilowatts for hot water supply. The boiler is equipped with two circuits. The first circuit is for heating and the second for hot water supply. The Bosch GAZ 6000 W wall-mounted gas boiler is equipped with a closed combustion chamber.
Removal of combustion products is carried out through a coaxial chimney using a fan. The device allows you to install a channel divider or carry out the removal of combustion products through a system of separate chimneys. Combustion products are removed through coaxial smoke removal. In the case of separate smoke extraction through a system with a diameter of 80 mm. The weight of the apparatus is 31 kg. The low weight was achieved by reducing the metal consumption. The hydraulic group is made of plastic.
Gas boiler Bosch GAZ 6000 W Overview
The boiler heats hot water using a secondary heat exchanger. A system of separate heat exchangers. The maximum water consumption when heated by 50 degrees of this apparatus is 6.8 liters. This is a good enough indicator to work on one draw point. For two draw-off points, this parameter will not be enough.
Like all boilers with a closed combustion chamber and forced circulation of the coolant in the heating system, this unit is connected to a power supply of 220 volts and a frequency of 50 hertz. The consumption of the boiler in the operating mode is not more than 150 W. If the boiler is not working for the heating system or for the hot water system, but is in standby mode, its consumption is only 2 W.
Operating range for circuit temperature heating systems defined from 40 to 82 degrees Celsius. The maximum allowable operating pressure in the heating system is 3 bar. If the pressure exceeds , the safety valve . The capacity of the boiler circuit is 1.6 liters of water. Hot water is regulated from 35 to 60 degrees, the maximum allowable working pressure of water supply is up to 10 bar. The minimum flow pressure for hot water is 0.3 bar. The maximum water flow through 24 kW is 8 liters per minute, through the boiler 18 kW and 12 kW 6 liters per minute.
The Bosch GAZ 6000 W gas boiler allows operation on both natural and liquefied gas. For operation on liquefied gas, a reconfiguration is necessary. To do this, you will need to purchase an LPG conversion kit and adjust the electronic parameters of the boiler to operate on LPG. The consumption of natural gas is 2.8 m3 per hour, the consumption of liquefied gas is 2 kilograms per hour. Warm performance, boiler for 24 kW from 7.2 kilowatts to 24 kW.
Control Panel
let's Now let's take a closer look at the control panel itself and see what's on it. The control panel is a regular rectangle with an LCD display that displays information about the state of the gas boiler.
On the top left is the power button with which we can On / Off. boiler . In the middle are two buttons plus and minus, with which we increase and decrease relevant options . On the right is the Reset button, with the help of it we reset the error or confirm in any of the parameters.
On the left is the back button, which helps you navigate through the menu and exit it. Below the MODE button, with the help of it, you can select the operating mode of the boiler and, accordingly, adjust the temperature of heating and hot water supply. On the right is the manometer.
It is connected to the heating system with an external pipe 3/4, for water supply a pipe 1/2 and for gas an external pipe 3/4.
Gas boiler Bosch GAZ 6000 W Advantages and protection systems
Wall-mounted gas boiler Bosch GAZ 6000 W under The "hood" has a gas valve from SIT GROUP, on the right is a circulation pump from WILO. The cable from the pump is supplied without a plug. power at the first stage 38 W, at the third stage 84 W. Pump power is set depending on the volume of the heating system.
The heating system sensor is located in the supply pipe. Behind the 3 bar relief valve, there is a DHW flow sensor. The control board is reliably protected from water. At the back is an expansion tank, then you can see the wire to the fan. As for many other boilers, the fan is produced in Poland, at the FIME plant. The combustion chamber cover is very thick and solid. Such insulation is necessary for not to be intense front panel heating.
Gas boiler bosch gaz 6000 w wbn 6000-24 C It has 11 section main burner and copper heat exchanger. The ignition electrode and the ionization electrode are standard. On the left side, the water supply temperature sensor is not submersible, which is considered more reliable. In order to clean the burner, it is not necessary to dismantle the gas line. Simply unscrew 4 screws, remove the electrodes and pull the burner out for cleaning.
On the left at the outlet of the heat exchanger, a sensor for overheating of the heating system is installed. Above is differential pressure switch pressure switch that controls the draft in the chimney. To organize a chimney, it is recommended to connect a standard 60x100mm system and it is better to use original Bosch kits so that there are no problems during installation.
Gas boiler Bosch GAZ 6000 W 24 kW. Advantages:
Today we dismantled the Bosch GAZ 6000 W wall-mounted gas boiler, made a detailed overview of the main characteristics and components. detailed and instructions in the section. Please leave
The wall-mounted double-circuit boiler is designed not only for space heating, but also for quick preparation hot water. The thermal power of the model is 24 kW, which corresponds to a maximum heated area of up to 240 square meters. m. However, taking into account the necessary stock, it may be less. Other equipment characteristics:
- Type of the combustion chamber - closed;
- Installed heat exchanger - lamellar;
- Number of circuits - 2 (heating and hot water supply);
- Productivity of a contour of GVS - 11,4 l/min;
- Chimney diameter - 60/100 mm.
Having received the heating boiler Bosch Gaz 6000 W WBN 6000-24 C, you should read the information printed on the box. Here we will see a tag that says that it is made in Russia and is powered by natural gas with a nominal pressure of 13 mbar. Also on the tag is the name of the model and thermal power equipment. Currently, the equipment is manufactured at a plant in Engels, Saratov Region. The boiler comes in very good packaging, which prevents possible damage to the equipment.
Currently on the market Russian Federation according to BOSCH company it is fixed great amount equipment imported illegally from the territory of Ukraine. The cost of such equipment is relatively lower (from 24 to 26 tr.) due to the complete absence of a guarantee from the manufacturer. Outwardly, this boiler is no different, but the serial number of the product does not break through the BOSCH database.
Having opened the box with the boiler, we will find a set of documentation for the installation and connection of equipment. Everything is painted as detailed and clear as possible, which will help to avoid confusion and errors during the installation of the boiler. In addition to the data sheet and instructions for installation and maintenance, there is an operating manual for consumers inside. In order to protect the equipment from damage during transportation, it is dressed in foam that surrounds the device from all sides at once.
A template is included in the scope of delivery to facilitate mounting the boiler on the wall.
Operating instructions for consumers and Technical passport and installation and maintenance instructions for a specialist in Russian, previously there was an instruction in Ukrainian.
A set of gaskets for the heating and hot water circuit, a set of dowel-brackets.
Instructions for starting the pump during initial installation.
Boiler Bosch Gaz 6000 W WBN 6000-24 C is designed for wall mounting and connection to a coaxial chimney. It implements flame control, automatic ignition of the burner, electronic protection and an adjustable fan. Also inside we will find a three-stage pump and a built-in expansion tank.
The fan, as for many other boilers, is produced in Poland, at the FIME plant
Thus, the boiler is delivered in a state completely ready for installation.
Under the foam, the Bosch Gaz 6000 W WBN 6000-24 C boiler itself is hidden, the body of which has a regular rectangular shape. On its front panel there is a control panel with a liquid crystal display and buttons, a pressure gauge, the Bosch logo and a brief graphic instruction for setting the temperature in the heating and DHW circuits.
In the lower left corner there is another tag with the name of the model and its serial number - it's easier to look for it when warranty service or carrying out repairs.
In order to protect the control panel from accidental scratches and roughness, it is covered with a blue technological film - after installation, they are removed.
The control panel itself is removable, behind it opens access to the internal equipment of the double-circuit boiler.
After laying down the boiler, we will find pipes for connecting elements of the water supply and heating system, make-up tap and discharge pipe. Their purpose is indicated in the documentation that comes with the kit.
To access the internal equipment, lower the cover with the control panel down and fold it towards you. The lid will not detach and will not hang - it is held by plastic stops, similar to clamps.
If necessary, they can be removed by unscrewing the retaining screws. In order to gain access to the combustion chamber, burner, blower and various sensors, you need to completely remove the metal front panel - to do this, unscrew the next two screws and remove the cover to the side.
Now all the internal equipment of the boiler is ready for inspection and adjustment (or for maintenance).
The control module of the Bosch Gaz 6000 W WBN 6000-24 C boiler is located on a hinged lid and is closed with a plastic casing with warning signs. Multi-colored wires and cables go inside. You can familiarize yourself with their purpose with the help of the proposed instructions. The plastic cover is held on by the simplest latches and can be removed without much difficulty. Inside we see the control module board with fuses. By the way, if the fuses have become unusable, they can be quickly replaced - on the inside of the cover we will see two holders that hold spare fuses.
To connect diagnostic equipment, an outside temperature sensor and a controller, there is no need to remove the cover from the control module - just remove a small plastic cover behind which the necessary connectors are hidden.
The wall-mounted double-circuit boiler Bosch Gaz 6000 W WBN 6000-24 C is easy to repair, and all its modules are located so as to provide free access to them. For example, by removing the plastic cover from the control panel, we will find circulation pump with speed switch, gas valve, DHW plate heat exchanger, numerous sensors and connecting cables. Having removed the front metal one, we will find a combustion chamber, a pressure switch, an exhaust pipe. For better access to the internal equipment, we can remove the side covers.
Unscrewing the front cover of the combustion chamber, we find a powerful primary copper heat exchanger and a steel burner with an ignition system. The combustion chamber itself is closed on all sides with sheets of asbestos. The heat exchanger is 37 mm thick, 152 mm wide and 267 mm long. Behind the combustion chamber is a flat expansion tank, completely invisible at first glance. As for the heat exchanger of the DHW circuit, it is located in the lower part of the boiler, behind the gas fittings. Next to it, a hot water temperature sensor, a filter and a flow meter are visible. To retain heat, we see thermal insulation on the housing covers.
- General information about the boiler;
- Flue gas removal;
- Boiler installation;
- Electrical connections;
- Commissioning;
- Conducting thermal disinfection.
It also talks about the process of reconfiguring the Bosch Gaz 6000 W WBN 6000-24 C boiler to another type of gas - it can work not only from a gas line, but also from liquefied gas cylinders. Equally important sections of the manual are "Check / Maintenance" and "Faults". With their help, you can understand the process of maintaining equipment and with ways to independently eliminate many malfunctions.
wall heating boilers Bosch Gaz 6000 W WBN 6000-24 C are adapted to Russian operating conditions and are extremely simple. The control is carried out with the help of several buttons, and in order to understand the operating modes, there is an informative liquid crystal display. It will also help to obtain diagnostic information - if any failures occur, an error code appears on the screen. All types of faults and their codes are described in the documentation for the boiler.
Bosch Gaz 6000 W WBN 6000-24 C boilers are economical and can work at reduced gas pressure. The pressure spread can vary from 9 to 17 mbar. The supply voltage range is from 165 to 240 Volts, which is quite enough for domestic electrical networks. Despite their good equipment, the boilers are small in size, as can be seen in the photographs presented in the review. Also, consumers will be pleased with the low noise level generated by the equipment during operation.
This view provides an overview of all boilers. model range Bosch WBN6000
Setting the parameters of the 1st service level:
Setting parameters of the 2nd and 3rd service level:
Possible malfunctions of Bosch WBN 6000-24C series boilers
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Bosch boiler repair
Those who use the Bosch WBN 6000-24 C gas boiler, please tell me about the hot water supply. Is it comfortable? What is the delay in submission? Doesn't it scald with boiling water in the first seconds? And if, while taking a shower, the faucet in the kitchen opens, does it keep the temperature stable?
If the boiler was running on CO before turning on the DHW, the first 20 seconds is very hot. If standing, delay up to 1 min until the temperature stabilizes. Taking a shower alone, provided that no one else turns on hot water, is comfortable. Under other conditions, temperature fluctuations are inevitable.
I can’t understand the reason why the Bosch 6000 double-circuit stopped clocking. It picks up the temperature indicated to it and keeps it constant. At the same time, sometimes, often at temperatures above 65 °, something "hisses" in it for several seconds, as if air is being vented.
I have the same. But my unit is 5 years old. I scored 60 and works for a long time at the minimum wage (ideal for wall makers). At maximum speed, it hisses (on hot water), as if the heat exchanger is boiling. I'll wash it in the summer if it survives.
Need a gas boiler: single-circuit, wall-mounted, 24 kW, closed burner, with the possibility of cascade connection, tell me the Bosch model?
Bosch only has a GAZ 7000 and condensers are assembled in a cascade. In fact, if desired, any model can be assembled to work in a cascade. Units that have this feature integrated into their brains can initially work in a cascade without any additional gadgets. For the rest, you will have to buy an "extension", additional brains. Cascade controllers are called. Automation of the 7000th supports cascade, but without a cascade module, the ICM will not work. Like models from other manufacturers that can be cascaded, additional modules are required.
Bosch boiler 6000 24 kW, single-circuit with built-in three-way valve. Does not see the boiler sensor, gives an error. Tell me how to make it not give an error and work normally both for heating and for the boiler?
Call a specialist to register the parameters in the service menu. Well, or try to pull it out of the socket and turn it on, it can decide itself.
At the inlet to the Bosch Gaz 4000 W ZWA 24-2 A boiler, the DHW water consumption is 10 l / m. Outlet 2l/m. Where does it go? When the heating is switched on, the DHW is heated. One cannot be related to the other, how is it related?
Bithermic heat exchanger, heating water when the heating is on is logical. Start by checking the filter in front of the flow sensor - it happens that it helps. If not, then the heat exchanger needs to be flushed.
EA error on the display of the bosch 6000 boiler. The flame lights up on all lamellas, but the unit stubbornly does not see the flame. In the settings, the ionization current is 0. Only the complete removal of voltage from it helps. It is noticed that the error pops up only when the temperature overboard drops below 0. At positive temperatures, this has never happened (except for cases when the burner did not really light up). I will try on your advice to change the fan stage to 5. But I do not see any connection between the stage and the failure of the board (firmware). On firmware version 245.05 they say there is no such glitch. I would also like to find the firmware itself, I have programmers.
I corrected it as follows: I was advised to turn the plug in the socket upside down, as they explained - for the automatics of the boiler, the position is fundamental, at first I tried to turn the plug in the stabilizer - it did not help, then I turned the stabilizer plug in the mains socket. The device has been working without shutting down for more than a week.
Tell me, the Bosch gaz 4000 w zwa24-2a boiler. Is it possible to connect automation to it so that it maintains a comfortable temperature in the house?
Can. Any, with dry contact (without voltage) - for gas units.
I bought a 12 kW Bosch-6000 boiler for my dacha, connected it to a gas tank. Accordingly, propane-butane gas. Household devices have not previously had to be launched. Installed the injectors liquefied gas. I switched the gas type in the boiler settings. The fan stage was set to 3. The chimney is coaxial, length 2m 40cm. The gas pressure at the inlet is 30 mbar. When trying to start, the gas pressure does not drop, it remains normal.
The boiler does not start. When you try to start the spark beats, the fire lights up, but then some valve clicks and the fire goes out. There are several exactly the same launch attempts. And the EA error appears - the flame is not detected. Several times I bled air from the highway, I followed all the points of the instructions. What could be, where to look? By the way, how does this unit determine whether there is a flame or not? There seems to be no optical sensor, at least I did not find it.
The unit detects the presence of a flame by the ionization electrode, which, when heated by the burner flame, generates a small current. As you were told the ionization current. First of all, I would check the contact of the wire on this electrode and on the board. The second thing is how the electrode itself is installed, whether the flame hits it during ignition. And the third option, adjusting the burner with adjusting screws. Turn the screw to increase the minimum flame. It may be that the boiler switches to minimum combustion immediately after ignition and simply goes out because the flame is very small. If it turns out to ignite, then it will be possible to adjust according to the instructions to the required pressure.
Error C4 came out, dismantled the boiler, eliminated the error, but several questions arose.
1) Perhaps the blower fan is not fully screwed in, is it supposed to be like this?
2) The tubes from the differential relay go on top of the plate, and mine is under it. What is right and best?
3) When starting the unit, the passport says that the fan stage should be set to 12, and the gasman said so. And I have 5 in the instructions, although they are the same, which is correct and better?
If you wash the filter, it should work.
Tell me, please, where to buy a pressure switch 94/74 for ZWA? The device is cut down constantly due to a pressure switch error. I blew, cleaned, checked the pipe twice. It seems to have worked. Turned off again 5 days ago. Ice on the pipe. I insulated the pipe and changed the slope. There has been no frost since. The condensate all flies out. Yesterday it started turning off again. It works stably only in 4th gear, when the heating is constantly boiling. If you turn it down, then after a few cycles it goes out again with the same error. I'm assuming it's a relay.
Maybe condensation got on the contacts.
As I understand it, with a double-circuit boiler, cold water can not be brought to the shower at all, but the temperature can be regulated by pressure. Bosch 24 (in my case) gives out the temperature, with the hot water tap fully open, no more than 28 g (supply 25 ppr, outlets 20). Is that how it should be?
The unit must maintain the set temperature if the flow rate is in the range of 2.5 -11 l/min. With the tap fully open, the flow rate may be higher, and therefore cannot heat.
Tell me, is it possible to connect a BKN to a dual-circuit Bosch 6000 or only to a single-circuit one? And what are the features of the connection, we put a three-way valve for heating, it is controlled from the boiler sensor. But how to let the unit know so that when switching to the boiler, it would give out all the power and, most importantly, what to do with the DHW circuit, turn it off or need to be connected somewhere?
Technically possible. The main thing is just the first thing, you can let the boiler know about switching to DHW only through the flow sensor, but there are not simple contacts, but a Hall sensor, and you need to somehow simulate the flow. The flow sensor is on the DHW, and the boiler will be connected to the heating circuit, through a three-way valve, like a single-circuit one. It is only necessary to give the device a command that it would give out all the power. He receives this command through the DHW flow sensor.
How often does a turbocharged boiler turn on? I have it at 50 gr., heats up to 54, then cools down to 46 and starts up again within 20 minutes.
Install a room thermostat, then it will turn on according to the temperature in the room, and not according to the temperature of the coolant. Without a thermostat, of course, it will turn on more often.
My boiler temperature is set to 50 degrees. It heats up to 54, then it stops heating and the fan turns on and cools down to 50 -49 gr. Is that how it should be or not?
This is normal, only it is not a fan, but a pump inside it, which drives the coolant through the heating system. And the coolant cools down in your radiators and warm floors. The overrun time of the pump is set in the service menu of the unit.
Tell me if this is normal - the indicators of the heating system and the summer mode are on at the same time. Boiler Bosch WBN 6000 24H RN. Installed by the master from the asc, 2 weeks ago. Both icons are on from that moment - I thought it should be so.
The mode in the frame is active, i.e. at the moment - heating.
It seems to me that protection should be precisely the presence of coolant circulation. Regardless of whether there is gas or errors in the boiler. Right?
No. The unit must be turned on and without errors. It can stand in standby mode, and turns on itself when the temperature drops below 5 degrees, heats up to 40 degrees and so on.
I heard that BKN crashes into the heating system through a three-way external valve or a loading pump, or both. They are controlled by BKN automation. What is BKN automation? What will control the loading pump and bring the burner to maximum?
BKN is an indirect heating boiler. Automation BKN - boiler thermoregulation automation. Connected to 220V. It has a thermal switch to turn on the pump and drive the three-way valve, as well as, depending on the modification of the heating element. Naturally, the boiler will give out the temperature that is set for heating. This will just slightly increase the heating time of the boiler.
Can someone explain the instruction point: Set the pre-pressure in the expansion tank according to the static height of the heating system. How to understand what pressure to set in the tank? Or leave the factory?
If the house, for example, has 3 floors, the expansion tank is on the first floor, the height difference between the upper point of the SO and the RB is 7m, then the static pressure is 0.7 atm. We pump the expansion tank by 0.3-0.5 atm. more than static pressure. If the system is all at the same level, then 0.5-0.7 in the Republic of Belarus is enough.
Question about the circulation pump for Bosch WBN-6000 single-circuit. In my opinion, it buzzes too much and there is a slight vibration. Vibration and hum are not very strong and come from the circulation pump, and not from the turbine. At the same time, another circulation pump for the BKN heated towel rail works nearby, which works absolutely without noise and vibration. I think something is wrong with the pump. But it makes no sense to call someone, because for sure the noise is within the passport norms and the water circulates normally. But the noise is annoying. In this regard, what I think to do: In order not to disassemble anything and not lose the guarantee, put your own pump at the outlet from the boiler, take power from your own pump. And the native is simply de-energized.
The only thing that worries me: I read somewhere that there is a small “snail” on the boiler pumps and that these pumps, when turned off, give much more flow resistance than a conventional pump. Is this true for the WBN-6000 pump? A normal pump is supposed to work just fine. Does anyone have any information?
Try to bleed air from the pump. Unscrew the central screw.
Tell me, please, does the WBN 6000 single-circuit DHW priority change over heating, if so, how. I did not find it in the "engineering" menu. And what priority is set from the factory.
Priority from factory to DHW. Most likely it doesn't change. Yes, this is not necessary. The 120 liter tank heats up in minutes.
Please advise on the double-circuit boiler Bosch Gaz 4000 ZWA 24-2A-23. I am considering this bithermic apparatus to replace another 2-circuit with a plate heat exchanger. As a result, questions arose:
1. The instructions say that it is forbidden to use with thermostatic regulators on radiators. I have one of these, but connected to single pipe system. How critical is it if you unscrew the adjusting heads to the maximum?
2. The CO is built in such a way that water is constantly pumped through the boiler by external pumps. That is, when it works on hot water supply, part of the heat will go to CO, right? Can it happen that the required temperature will never be obtained in the DHW?
3. The instructions say that priority is set to DHW. How is this physically implemented in such models - when a flow occurs in the hot water supply, the burner gives less heat?
4. Now a BKN with a circulation pump is connected to the DHW outlet of the boiler, which is switched on from the temperature sensor on the BKN. Can ZWA work in the same configuration? The reason for the replacement is that the temperature drop does not suit when the DHW circuit is turned on, i.e., the heating of the BKN. Electric power is only 5 kW, so I do not count on it.
It will be the same. The burner gives more heat. DHW priority means switching to DHW mode when the flow sensor is triggered, regardless of the current state, heating operation or standby mode.
Bosch 6000-24 boiler malfunction. Installed and connected at the end of October 2014. That is, it has been in operation for 5 months and from the very beginning, as the temperature outside began to drop below 0, we have problems with it. At first it gave the Err Error - at the set degrees 50-55. As they started to set 65, the problem disappeared (of course it was hot, but I opened the windows). That is, the flame was blown out due to the fact that it was not high. Now frosts have come, it reaches -25 at night and once a day in the morning at such temperatures, the boiler gives C4 errors first, the next day C6. Called the gasmen. They stated that it freezes due to the fact that it was developed by Europeans and is not adapted to such frosts and winds. There are no solutions except
remove the gasket in the coaxial pipe at the junction of the elbow and the pipe so that it partially takes warm air from the room. But I think that this will not solve the problem, but will only add another source of draft to us, of which we already have enough due to the lack of window sills and slopes.
Errors C4 and C6 indicate a differential pressure switch and a fan, did the repairmen check this?
"The boiler is freezing" is some kind of not very serious conclusion.
C4 - The differential pressure switch does not open when the fan is off.
Check differential pressure switch.
C6 - Differential pressure switch does not close.
Check the fan and its cable with plug, replace if necessary.
Check differential pressure switch and flue pipes.
Is the fan stage set correctly?
If the differential relay is working properly, it is possible that condensation in the chimney prevents its normal operation. That is, you need to try to exclude condensate (from simple insulation of the chimney with mineral wool to the installation of a condensate drainage system). And I would also try to increase the temperature of the coolant to at least 75 degrees (especially in severe frosts) and connect a simple relay thermostat to the device so that there are no tropics in the house. If you could get to the differential relay, then remove the jumper on the control unit and connect a thermostat instead, then you can do it.
The situation is as follows: a couple of days ago, I finally connected the gas and the representative of the gas company started the boiler. At startup, he measured the grounding and said that it was not very good, 220/130, if I'm not mistaken (I don't understand electrics). So, as a result, the boiler gives an EA error about 7-10 hours after start-up, and it does not turn on by resetting the error. Moreover, you can hear how the flame lights up, you can see how the temperature rises by 10-15 degrees, but the flame icon does not appear, so it tries to start three times, then again gives an EA error. You can only start by pulling the plug out of the socket and inserting it back. Gas workers say to do normal grounding. The question is: is it really
does it have to do with grounding? Or should we look in a different direction?
Grounding probably has nothing to do with it. Although the opinion of the gas workers is reasonable, since this error is related to the operation of the board. My boiler without grounding gave this error, and so it works fine without grounding. So far, there is only one solution - to reflash the board (in Bosch services they are well aware of this error). Or set the fan operation level to 5. This is easy to do yourself through the menu. The decision came by chance because the cause of the error is not fully understood, but the truth is that no one has yet refuted this method of solving the problem.
Malfunction of the Bosch Gaz 6000 W-12 gas turbocharged boiler often causes an EA error - Flame not detected. The unit turns on and works without problems. I worked all winter at 75 degrees and only three times I gave such an error. With warming, I set it to 45 degrees and the error began to pop up every day and sometimes 2 times a day. In general, up to 50 degrees, the error often displays, over 50 degrees rarely. Before giving an error, the flame icon disappears. It tries to start again, makes the first attempt (unsuccessfully), then the second ignition attempt, and so on 5 times and then issues a blocking error EA. When you try to ignite, you can really hear how the gas flashes and goes out and there is no icon (flame). I reset the error by holding the OK button, the icon (flame) does not appear and it again makes 5 ignition attempts. I fix this problem like this - I reset the error and turn it off for 5 seconds, then turn it on, and everything works and the icon (flame) is present. But how long it will work without giving an error, you can not guess. At a low temperature, it can give an error in an hour, or it can work normally for two days. Well, as I wrote above, that at over 50 degrees, an error rarely happens.
1) Gas pressure.
2) If the gas pressure is normal, try swapping the wires (ionization electrode and ignition electrode), sometimes this helps.
3) If not, then change the board, or reflash.
With a similar error, EA adjusted by increasing the fan stage from 2 to 5 (In the service menu). I think the error was due to the fact that the fan did not have time to provide fresh air to the device, so without air it went out. My chimney is 0.7 meters long into the wall. The channel is not narrowed by any gaskets, but it is slightly narrowed by a clamp at the junction of the corner element and the straight pipe, since its design is very strange.
In operation wall-mounted boiler Bosch Gaz 6000. Worked for a couple of months in summer mode. Turned on the heating - it works, but the temperature of the coolant is not adjusted above 50 degrees. But the most interesting (bad) thing is that it does not allow you to enter the service menu. Pressing + and - at the same time does not react in any way. Who knows what to do?
You press plus-minus and the cancel arrow. Waiting.
Bosch 24 boiler malfunction (2-circuit). Periodically gives an error EA - does not see the burner. What is the problem?
The gas mixture is not supplied in the proper volume or pressure. The EA error is solved by the speed (stage) of the fan, the minimum gas supply, rarely by replacing the control board.
There were questions about setting up and adjusting the boiler. During commissioning, the service master did not check the pressure on the injectors and naturally did not set it. So the question is: by reducing the power in the parameters - did I reduce the pressure on the injectors or what? Does the device come from the factory not configured according to the table in the instructions? Or should the pressure be set according to the required maximum power for each house?
1. By reducing the power, you reduce the gas pressure on the nozzles. But it's better to do it with a pressure gauge.
2. The boiler is set at the factory at mains pressure, if the memory does not change 13 mbar. If you have more, then the pressure on the nozzles will be greater, so you need to check it during commissioning.
The Bosch 6000 gas boiler is in operation. There is a malfunction in the control board. Stores heating parameters. The temperature was set to 55 degrees. Because it's warm outside. Reduce the temperature by 40 degrees. The next day, the temperature of the coolant is also 55. Having set the temperature to 40 degrees, I turn off the power of the device, turn it on and again the temperature of the coolant is 55 degrees. Also, by turning on the summer mode, after turning off the power, it turns on the heating. Reset to factory settings. Did not help.
Parameter 2.9A is set to "2" and should be "0". The second level of the service menu L2.
We changed the control board on the bosch wbn 6000-24c boiler. After switching on, the boiler gives an error "P" - "The boiler type is not defined." To determine the type, you must use the service function 3.1.a. When calling the function, one of the presented values can be selected: 0, 20, 21, 30, 31, 32, 40, 41, 42, 50, 51, 52. Tell me, if anyone has come across, what value should be set for this model.
For this modification of the unit, the value of the parameter must be 31.
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Heating system control. Mounting. Connection. Transfer to another type of gas. Control devices and protection devices.
Peculiarities. Installation and installation. Automation components.
Technical specifications. Mounting. Adjustment and verification. Maintenance.
regulation and protection. Installation and installation. Pressure setting. Maintenance.
There was a problem after starting. It doesn’t want to turn on, it worked for two years, now the whole display lights up as when the boiler is turned on, when the self-diagnosis mode is in progress, then it clicks, turns off for miles and seconds and turns on the entire display again. It turned on once, but gives an error E10 water pressure, although the pressure in the system is 1.5 atm. Tell me what can be?
We installed and connected the Baxi Fourtech 24 F boiler. What is the pressure cold water allowed at the inlet to the DHW unit?
Bosch boiler 6000 24 kW, single-circuit with built-in three-way valve. Does not see the boiler sensor, gives an error. Tell me how to make it not give an error and work normally both for heating and for the boiler?
If you turn off the DHW flow sensor, then maybe it will be possible to reprogram it into a single-circuit device through the L3 menu?
Installed boiler Arderia esr 2.13 ffcd. If my coolant pressure drops a little in 2-3 days by a couple of divisions, can the three-way valve malfunction be the reason (there are no leaks from the radiators)?
In operation, the gas boiler Arderia 2.35. Tell me about power reduction. Heard something about modulation, fan speed and so on. Is it really possible to reduce power?
We installed and connected the Buderus Logano G234-WS-44 kW boiler, Logomatic 4211 automation. Heating on cylinders without hot water supply, jets for reduced gas were also replaced. We survived the winter, the cylinders were replaced, all without problems. Then in the spring, when the temperature outside was +16+18, the boiler began to turn off for a long time and, when turned on, it began to give a burner error on the screen and a red button light on the front wall lit up. We pressed the button, turned on the power again and everything worked. It happened several times, then the boiler was completely turned off for the summer, what could be the problem?
In a single-circuit Buderus 072, is the BKN coil circuit heated by the same heat exchanger as for heating or the same as on a 2-circuit one that is used for hot water supply?
Tell me, for Vaillant wall-mounted gas boilers, are there any real / actual differences for the better in the new generation turboTEC plus VU / 5-5 compared to / 3-5?
Boiler malfunction, green LED flashes (power), the instructions say that the thermal protection has worked, the green indicator flashes, even if nothing is connected to the board. How to fix? I checked all SMD resistors and transistors, everything is in order.
In operation, a double-circuit gas boiler Daewoo Gasboiler with an electronic panel. When the hot water supply is turned on, the heating is heated, the operating mode is summer. Removed the three-way valve, there is no dirt and no production. It seems that the board does not control the three-way valve. How to check?
Installed and connected wall-mounted boiler Electrolux Basic Xi. A problem began that the boiler stopped seeing the flame and turned off the gas supply after 7-8 seconds. And after 3 attempts gave an error E1. How can I fix it?
Koreastar boiler malfunction. The heating works perfectly, hot water comes intermittently, when you turn on the hot water tap, cold water comes first, then boiling water. After a few seconds, cool, then again boiling water. What could be the problem?
Malfunction of the ferroli domiproject 24 boiler - I set it to 60-70 degrees, it switches to minimum combustion, does not turn on, does not turn off. Restart is unstable. No pattern emerges. What to do?
Malfunction gas boiler Bosch 6000 w 24 c. Hot water does not flow. Turn on the hot water tap it's cold, there is no degree on the boiler. Nothing happens. The device itself works, the heating works, only hot water does not go. What to do? They called specialists, they all do not come, winter has already come. Is it possible to cope without specialists or wait for them? There are no changes, the flow sensor was changed.
Yes, the burner does not turn on in DHW mode. Here you can regulate whatever you want, even at home, even at the tap, there will be no hot water.
In operation, a 2-circuit boiler WBN 6000-24C, the "light" icon is almost constantly on (the burner, as I understand it, is working). What could it be? Malfunction of the boiler itself or incorrect installation? What will the room thermostat give me (I didn’t measure the temperature, but I’ll do it today)?
The thermostat will give you the opportunity to avoid increased gas consumption. Roughly speaking:
1) Without a thermostat: the device works and burns gas ("light burns") very often, trying to maintain the temperature of the coolant set in its settings (i.e. the liquid that flows in the heating batteries).
2) With thermostat: The boiler only turns on when the temperature in the house has cooled down below the value set on the thermostat. And, accordingly, it turns off when the temperature reaches the value set on the thermostat.
Tell me, I want to install a gas boiler Bosch Gaz 7000 W ZSC 24-3 MFA single-circuit with a boiler and a closed combustion chamber. How is weather regulation done? I can not understand. I would like to use a room thermostat (my controller will play its role) and an outdoor temperature sensor. But according to the instructions it is not clear where what is connected. And I understand that without their remote control, nothing will work. Or is there a possibility? The controller will be able to regulate the room (according to the principle of an advanced thermostat) by closing and opening the contact. What to do with weather adjustments? According to the instructions everywhere indicate the need for additional branded regulators. In a word, if you simply connect the outdoor temperature sensor, will the logic of the boiler work somehow change? Maybe you can recommend some other model of the Bosch line.
What is the problem with using native automation? Which will allow you to modulate the burner, unlike on / off.
Bosch wall-mounted boiler 6000-24 kW in operation. Tell me please, here we had frosts for a week, last night it started to get colder in the house, the boiler began to work strangely, it picks up the set temperature of 65, then it drops a little and picks up again. But already 72-74 degrees, the burner goes out, and he drops the temperature to 30-33, then rests for 3-4 minutes and again on a new one. What could it be? Mode - the maximum possible modulation, in the case
exceeding the temperature of the coolant above 5 degrees, the burner is turned off, standby mode and a new process.
Check mudguard. If it is cool at home, raise the temperature of the coolant or put a thermostat and set it to the maximum.
Please advise on the double-circuit boiler Bosch Gaz 4000 ZWA 24-2A-23. I am considering this bithermic apparatus to replace another 2-circuit with a plate heat exchanger. As a result, questions arose:
1. The instructions say that it is forbidden to use with thermostatic regulators on radiators. I have one of these, but connected to a one-pipe system. How critical is it if you unscrew the adjusting heads to the maximum?
2. The CO is built in such a way that water is constantly pumped through the boiler by external pumps. That is, when it works on hot water supply, part of the heat will go to CO, right? Can it happen that the required temperature will never be obtained in the DHW?
3. The instructions say that priority is set to DHW. How is this physically implemented in such models - when a flow occurs in the hot water supply, the burner gives less heat?
4. Now a BKN with a circulation pump is connected to the DHW outlet of the boiler, which is switched on from the temperature sensor on the BKN. Can ZWA work in the same configuration? The reason for the replacement is that the temperature drop does not suit when the DHW circuit is turned on, i.e., the heating of the BKN. Electric power is only 5 kW, so I do not count on it.
It will be the same. The burner gives more heat. DHW priority means switching to DHW mode when the flow sensor is triggered, regardless of the current state, heating operation or standby mode.
Bosch 6000-24 boiler malfunction. Installed and connected at the end of October 2014. That is, it has been in operation for 5 months and from the very beginning, as the temperature outside began to drop below 0, we have problems with it. At first it gave the Err Error - at the set degrees 50-55. As they started to set 65, the problem disappeared (of course it was hot, but I opened the windows). That is, the flame was blown out due to the fact that it was not high. Now frosts have come, it reaches -25 at night and once a day in the morning at such temperatures, the boiler gives C4 errors first, the next day C6. Called the gasmen. They stated that it freezes due to the fact that it was developed by Europeans and is not adapted to such frosts and winds. There are no solutions, except to remove the gasket in the coaxial pipe at the junction of the elbow and the pipe so that it partially takes warm air from the room. But I don't think it's a problem.
decides, but only adds one more source of draft to us, of which we have enough due to the lack of window sills and slopes.
Errors C4 and C6 indicate a differential pressure switch and a fan, did the repairmen check this?
"The boiler is freezing" is some kind of not very serious conclusion.
C4 - The differential pressure switch does not open when the fan is off.
Check differential pressure switch.
C6 - Differential pressure switch does not close.
Check the fan and its cable with plug, replace if necessary.
Check differential pressure switch and flue pipes.
Is the fan stage set correctly?
If the differential relay is working properly, it is possible that condensation in the chimney prevents its normal operation. That is, you need to try to exclude condensate (from simple insulation of the chimney with mineral wool to the installation of a condensate drainage system). And I would also try to increase the temperature of the coolant to at least 75 degrees (especially severe frosts) and connect a simple relay thermostat to the device so that there are no tropics in
home. If you could get to the differential relay, then remove the jumper on the control unit and connect a thermostat instead, then you can do it.
The situation is as follows: a couple of days ago, I finally connected the gas and the representative of the gas company started the boiler. At startup, he measured the grounding and said that it was not very good, 220/130, if I'm not mistaken (I don't understand electrics). So, as a result, the boiler gives an EA error about 7-10 hours after start-up, and it does not turn on by resetting the error. Moreover, you can hear how the flame lights up, you can see how the temperature rises by 10-15 degrees, but the flame icon does not appear, so it tries to start three times, then again gives an EA error. You can only start by pulling the plug out of the socket and inserting it back. Gas workers say to do normal grounding. The question is: is it really related to grounding? Or should we look in a different direction?
Grounding probably has nothing to do with it. Although the opinion of the gas workers is reasonable, since this error is related to the operation of the board. My boiler without grounding gave this error, and so it works fine without grounding. So far, there is only one solution - to reflash the board (in Bosch services they are well aware of this error). Or set the fan operation level to 5. This is easy to do yourself through the menu. The solution came by chance because the cause of the error is not completely
is understandable, but the truth is that this method of solving the problem has not yet been refuted by anyone.
Malfunction of the Bosch Gaz 6000 W-12 gas turbocharged boiler often causes an EA error - Flame not detected. The unit turns on and works without problems. I worked all winter at 75 degrees and only three times I gave such an error. With warming, I set it to 45 degrees and the error began to pop up every day and sometimes 2 times a day. In general, up to 50 degrees, the error often displays, over 50 degrees rarely. Before as
give an error, the flame icon disappears. It tries to start again, makes the first attempt (unsuccessfully), then the second ignition attempt, and so on 5 times and then issues a blocking error EA. When you try to ignite, you can really hear how the gas flashes and goes out and there is no icon (flame). I reset the error by holding the OK button, the icon (flame) does not appear and it again makes 5 ignition attempts. I fix this problem like this - I reset the error and turn it off for 5 seconds, then turn it on, and everything works and the icon (flame) is present. But how long it will work without giving an error, you can not guess. At a low temperature, it can give an error in an hour, or it can work normally for two days. Well, as I wrote above, that at over 50 degrees, an error rarely happens.
1) Gas pressure.
2) If the gas pressure is normal, try swapping the wires (ionization electrode and ignition electrode), sometimes this helps.
3) If not, then change the board, or reflash.
With a similar error, EA adjusted by increasing the fan stage from 2 to 5 (In the service menu). I think the error was due to the fact that the fan did not have time to provide fresh air to the device, so without air it went out. My chimney is 0.7 meters long into the wall. The channel is not narrowed by any gaskets, but it is slightly narrowed by a clamp at the junction of the corner element and the straight pipe, since its design is very strange.
In operation wall-mounted boiler Bosch Gaz 6000. Worked for a couple of months in summer mode. Turned on the heating - it works, but the temperature of the coolant is not adjusted above 50 degrees. But the most interesting (bad) thing is that it does not allow you to enter the service menu. Pressing + and - at the same time does not react in any way. Who knows what to do?
You press plus-minus and the cancel arrow. Waiting.
Bosch 24 boiler malfunction (2-circuit). Periodically gives an error EA - does not see the burner. What is the problem?
The gas mixture is not supplied in the proper volume or pressure. The EA error is solved by the speed (stage) of the fan, the minimum gas supply, rarely by replacing the control board.
There were questions about setting up and adjusting the boiler. During commissioning, the service master did not check the pressure on the injectors and naturally did not set it. So the question is: by reducing the power in the parameters - did I reduce the pressure on the injectors or what? Does the device come from the factory not configured according to the table in the instructions? Or should the pressure be set according to the required maximum power for each house?
1. By reducing the power, you reduce the gas pressure on the nozzles. But it's better to do it with a pressure gauge.
2. The boiler is set at the factory at mains pressure, if the memory does not change 13 mbar. If you have more, then the pressure on the nozzles will be greater, so you need to check it during commissioning.
The Bosch 6000 gas boiler is in operation. There is a malfunction in the control board. Stores heating parameters. The temperature was set to 55 degrees. Because it's warm outside. Reduce the temperature by 40 degrees. The next day, the temperature of the coolant is also 55. Having set the temperature to 40 degrees, I turn off the power of the device, turn it on and again the temperature of the coolant is 55 degrees. Also, by turning on the summer mode, after turning off the power, it turns on the heating. Reset to factory settings. Did not help.
Parameter 2.9A is set to "2" and should be "0". The second level of the service menu L2.
We changed the control board on the bosch wbn 6000-24c boiler. After switching on, the boiler gives an error "P" - "The boiler type is not defined." To determine the type, you must use the service function 3.1.a. When calling the function, one of the presented values can be selected: 0, 20, 21, 30, 31, 32, 40, 41, 42, 50, 51, 52. Tell me, if anyone has come across, what value should be set for this model.
For this modification of the unit, the value of the parameter must be 31.
There were problems with the boiler, the specialist checked the water filter again, said that the pump was working normally, that the heat exchanger should not heat up so quickly, and then just as quickly drop the temperature, pick something, twist it. Then he offered to reset the settings to factory settings. I tried, but it was of little use. It keeps 33 on heating, then the burner ignites, quickly heats up to 51 (45 is set for heating), then the gas is turned off, as I understand it - the pump turns on, the temperature quickly drops to 33 and lasts until the next start.
Open the hot water to the fullest, to the fullest. Set the DHW temperature to 60 C (this is not for long) If the flow is about 10 l / min and higher, then with a properly configured burner, the temperature on the boiler should not float (but you should not see 60, in theory). In DHW mode, the boiler displays the hot water temperature. Now close the water and activate the heating mode. If the temperature rises sharply and the burner turns off then:
1. heating circuit filter.
2. pump rotor and its speed should be 3.
3. Three-way valve - no voltage to the actuator.
3. Maximum power of the heating system.
How quickly does it raise the temperature in the heating circuit? In principle, it depends on the power consumption of the heating system, and its resistance, but given that it is not cold yet, it will rise quickly. Further, when the temperature is set, after reaching the set value, the burner does not turn off immediately, but works for some more time, in its own words, it creates an inertial heat reserve. Usually it is +5K to the set value and only then turns off. Plus casting at 1K is normal. Here you have 51 C. Further, after shutdown, the system activates a delay from frequent switching on - by default 3 minutes and additionally introduces a temperature correction of -5K. Time delay is in any case a priority. i.e., if the temperature in the apparatus fell too quickly, for example, it changed by 15 K within 30 seconds, it will still stand 3
minutes. A sharp drop indicates a large resistance of the heating system (and the boiler is part of it). At the same time, if after three minutes heating circuit has not cooled down to the set value, the burner will not ignite. If you want to see on the display a constant maintenance of the set temperature, ask yourself the question - what is more important to you - 45 C in radiators, or + 22 C in the room. The latter is more important to me.
It is true that Bosch heat exchangers of all models are not covered with anti-corrosion aluminum paint. Other manufacturers Viessmann, Vaillant, Ariston, Baxi heat exchangers are covered with a special protective anti-corrosion layer. Bosch boilers have pure copper and this is presented as an advantage that other brands do not have. Is this really an advantage or are these heat exchangers just cheaper and they just save money?
Copper is used because it does not corrode. Well, by virtue of their physical properties. And this "anti-corrosion" coating quickly burns.
In which cases does the burner activate modulation - only when using a thermostat?
When the coolant temperature approaches the set one, the modulation is switched on even without a room temperature sensor, but this process may be too fleeting (before switching off) to be noticed. When using an OT thermostat, flame modulation will occur even when the room temperature approaches the set temperature. When using an On/Off thermostat, modulation and thermostat operation are not related in any way.
In operation, the bosch gaz wbn 6000W double-circuit boiler worked for two and a half years without any complaints. With the exception of clocking on hot water heating. recently done Maintenance, cleaned and adjusted. Stopped ticking. Then a couple of weeks later the sight glass in the combustion chamber flew out. Glued in place. In the summer, it occasionally began to turn off with errors 60 and 70. By the fall, malfunctions became more frequent.
Now it happens, many times a day it turns off. Sometimes it works for two weeks. He opened, cleaned the fan, blew out the pipes from the difrele, disassembled, cleaned and reassembled the chimney, slightly straightening it along the way (there were slight bends in the knees). It seems that the fan began to blow weakly outward. Please help with good advice. And throw the idea of how to make an alarm for turning off the device.
If the fan is clean and the impeller is spinning quietly, then it is unlikely. Change the pressure switch.
Tell me how to make a sound alarm shutdown in case of a malfunction?
Simple methods - no way. Put a temperature sensor on the supply plus an electronic device, if the temperature is low, it beeps.
House 70m2 300mm foam block + 50mm mineral wool + ceramic brick cladding. In the future, I will add another 50-60 meters. On the ground floor there is a TP 33m2, radiators on the first and second floor. At this stage, the draw-off points are: a kitchen and a bathroom with a shower. Then I will make 1 more bathroom. I plan to install BKN Drazice 125. There is no riser, so the boiler will be wall-mounted with coaxial chimney. Considered various boilers. Bosch 6000 attracts for the price, and besides, it has an 18 kW model, and the bosch gaz 7000 has a minimum of 24 kW, I think it will often trip with my areas. For me, the main thing in functionality is that it can be used to set the temperature of the boiler water and, in the future, connect some kind of room thermostat or outdoor sensor (the last 2 conditions are not a fact). Is there a quality difference between the two models? Maybe the assembly location is different or something else?
Take the bosch gaz wbn 6000-18 and wstb 120 model.
As I understand it, the BKN can be connected to a double-circuit boiler in 2 ways: through a three-way valve and through a hydraulic separator. In both cases, as a consumer of the heating system (radiator), and it will warm up from the temperature of the heating system. This is understandable. And where to connect the DHW outlets of the boiler, or can it just be drowned out? I wanted to take a single-circuit Bosch 6000, but it is not available, and they offer a double-circuit one. If outputs
muffle, nothing will happen to the heat exchanger, it will not burn out quickly without water? And you don’t want to keep the device always at the maximum, let it just warm the BKN longer. Moreover, I took the ACV Comfort 130, and it is a tank in the tank, I think, it will keep the temperature longer than with a coil. The disadvantage is that all boilers of this brand have a maximum pressure in the heating circuit of 3 bar, in the boiler safety valve also 3 bars. They say that if the valve gets stuck, then your BKN will explode. And I still think about a double-circuit boiler, so that in the event of a boiler failure, I won’t be left without hot water?
These conclusions can be left open, they are only for sanitary water. And it is possible to build a backup DHW heating line. But I don’t remember cases of failure of ACV boilers.
I ask for advice on two technical issues of organizing a separate smoke exhaust gas boiler Bosch 6000:
1. Exhaust tract - does it make sense when switching from "pants" 80-80 through a tee with a condensate drain, to switch to a vertical chimney diameter of 100 mm? The cost of pipes 80 and 100 mm is close, on the whole pipe there will be a difference of 1200 - 1500 rubles, taking into account additional steps. The height of the chimney from the point of connection of the tee is 4500 mm, the outlet through the roof of the building is 5500 mm from the ridge, 10 degrees are taken into account.
2. Inlet tract. The air intake will come from a cold ventilated attic room. To the outer wall of the room more than 4 meters, not an option; Combustion air intake from the room is not an option. The distance from the intake point in the attic to the upper plane of the unit is about 1050 mm, including inside the boiler room - about 800 mm. AT winter period this air duct could serve as a source of several problems, the main one is the inflow of air with an almost outside temperature into the device (very bad), and abundant condensation on this very air duct, flowing onto its body. Condensation is cut off by insulating the pipe with various kinds of thermal insulation, but at the same time, the main drawback of the scheme is preserved and aggravated - the device is chilled by outside temperature air. As a radical solution, I drew in my mind a diagram in which the role of the supply duct is played by chimney bath stove (diameter 100-110 mm) with a welded-on water register 300-500 mm long. Coolant circulation in the register - from CO, by a separate circuit. Difficult, but the result could be.
Tell me, please, which chimney kit to buy for bosch wbn 6000-24 c? It is necessary to go through a wall with a thickness of 375 mm, the outlet from the boiler is immediately behind the wall, there is no need to lead anywhere else. The prices for Bosch chimneys have risen, I would like to buy something cheaper, for example.
If you turn off the DHW flow sensor, then maybe it will be possible to reprogram it into a single-circuit device through the L3 menu?
No. Replacing the board from a single-circuit boiler. And the valve body from a single-circuit model, as well as install a three-way valve.
When operating from a regulator, can it be configured so that the pump does not turn off? It is due to the fact that both floors and batteries work in the house at the same time (we love warm floors). I installed the Bosch cr 12005 today, and now I'm sitting here thinking. The unit will bring the room temperature up to 25 degrees and turn off completely. The room will cool down, the floors will probably cool down too. In the future, when turned on, in order to heat up again to the set temperature,
not much time will pass due to the high temperature in the batteries and the floors will generally be slightly warm all the time. What is the best way to set it up here? And the second question, I press the middle button with the letter P, the hot water icon appears on the display, its temperature and time. What does it mean?
Question: We installed and connected the Bosch 3000 gas wall-mounted boiler installed in 2013. I did the two-pipe system myself, one floor. The boiler is fed through a stabilizer. The house of the father-in-law who is absent for a long time in the winter. In the spring of this year, the boiler began to give an "AA" error and stopped heating in the heating circuit. Heat water is coming no problem.
In the instructions for the indicated error, it offers the following options: 1. Stop the pump. 2. Check the temperature sensor of the heating circuit. 3. Check for lime deposits on the radiator. Following these points, I checked the pump and heat exchanger, the pump shaft rotates, the heat exchanger is clean and there is no scale. Empirically established that when the boiler is turned on, it starts to heat the water supply circuit.
The three-way valve does not open the heating circuit and, as a result, the boiler displays the error "AA" overheating. Heating pipes are cold. After an unsuccessful attempt to start heating, he turned off the gas and simply restarted the boiler until the "EA r" error appeared, there was no ionization flow, and only after that the three-way valve opened the heating circuit and the batteries became warm.
Since the boiler is located in the area and far from the service, I decided to remove the electrical part of the three-way valve for the time being and open the heating circuit without hot water, in this state the boiler quickly warmed up all the batteries. I assume that some mode is enabled on the boiler that does not allow opening
heating circuit to the three-way valve. I did not have time to check the temperature sensor in the service mode. The solar panels mode is off for sure. How to reset the boiler settings to factory settings did not immediately find in the instructions?
Answer: There is no such mode for a 3-way valve. You may have a stuck water flow sensor. Disconnect the sensor and try to start heating.
Question: A Bosch WBN 6000 wall-mounted boiler is installed. When working on hot water, the burner ignites 8-10 seconds after the hot water tap is opened. Is that how it should be? (It's just embarrassing that other manufacturers do not have such a long delay) The ignition delay time is set to the minimum. (parameter 2.9E).
Answer: Look at the parameters: 1.6d - the current flow rate on the turbine - to understand the flow rate of water flowing through the boiler. 1.7s minimum hot water consumption - maybe something here. And most importantly, we look - 2.9E - the delay in the signal of the DHW turbine, the factory value is 2 - 0.5 seconds! put it down. How about water consumption in general? how many liters per minute look parameter - 1.6d. If everything is fine, take out the hot water turbine, clean it, blow it, it should rotate from the breath.
Question: I have a bosch wbn 6000-24c gas boiler in operation. Since last year. So far, I have not observed any special jambs for him. Yes, and there is no way to check the hot water supply in a normal way in the house, I still do not live, repair. So the question is: Can it be used for showering, will there be hot/cold water temperature drops? Or do you still need a boiler for it! I just noticed that already when washing dishes alone hot water after 3-4 minutes the temperature of the water drops.
Answer: The Bosch wbn 6000-24c boiler is a traditional wall-mounted double-circuit boiler, hot water circuit works in a flowing way, like a gas water heater, while the heating is turned off. it is convenient to use such a boiler when hot water points are located nearby and turn on separately, first one then the other, otherwise the temperature will jump, if it is far away, you will have to shed a lot of water before the temperature goes constant.
Question: I have a double-circuit boiler. There is also a basic understanding. It was decided to make make-up from the water supply collector to the return pipe. Single pipe system. This is right? Is it better to make a drain valve from the return line too? I just watched how people had heating done and there they made water into the heating pipe.
Answer: Make-up separately in the supply in order not to touch the boiler make-up. Boiler feed is harder to change. I bought a valve of 2 pieces and rejoice. If it doesn’t hold, I changed the axle box crane and that’s it. In general, this is a make-up tap, the system is filled from an external tap in the absence of a boiler on the wall! So it seems to be necessary to put an external tap.
Question: The Bosch gas 6000 24 kW wall-mounted boiler is connected and connected, there is no external temperature sensor. Yesterday I installed the trz 200 thermostat. The instruction was only in Turkish with it, so I figured it out almost at random. I read the instructions, it became a little clearer what is written there, but unfortunately not much, maybe someone has it in Russian? In principle, I figured out how to program it, but the question arose - it works very strangely. In room 22, I set the manual mode and set it to 25.
The boiler starts up, the burner turns on, it works for 30 seconds, it cuts out, the purge is in progress, at this time the boiler panel displays that the summer mode is on. another 20-30 seconds pass, the burner starts up again and everything repeats, again for 30 seconds and falls into summer mode.
At the same time, the coolant temperature does not rise above 35 degrees (but is set on the boiler 45), so several iterations occur and as a result the boiler is cut down, hanging in summer mode. in the room as it was 22 and left. coolant in the region of 25. In automatic mode, everything is the same. It seems that the thermostat does not care about the temperature in the room, although it shows it correctly (there is another independent sensor to check). Maybe I'm doing something wrong?
Answer: When my boiler was launched by Bosch, and specifically Bosch 6000, it also did not run the system. The symptoms were such that it warms at the outlet, the temperature rises wildly, and the water entering the boiler is cold. The boiler is connected in a single-pipe system f-100 mm, (then I’ll change it to batteries), So the masters were tormented and airy, then I have everything that is possible, etc., etc., because they are too lazy to mess around.
Everything was solved by lowering the pressure in the system, dropping it to 1 and then adding a bit through the additional valve (I don’t know what it’s called from the bottom of the boiler, it stands between the first and second pipes. It all worked. But there is one thing, the burner turns on periodically, the noise rises. When it turns off it doesn't matter whether it's a noise or a fan or a pump or something else.How it should work in general.There is no room temperature sensor, the boiler is constantly set to one temperature.
Question: We launched the Bosch 6000 double-circuit gas boiler with the programmer CR12005, the coolant temperature is set and here and there 75 C, the temperature in the room is 21 C correctly, and the coolant temperature walks (the lower the outboard, the higher in the system).
Answer: She should walk - automation saves you gas.
Question: the heating of water for an indirect heating boiler in a single-circuit boiler occurs only when the umbrella turns on the boiler for heating, or can the boiler turn on by itself to prepare hot water, regardless of whether the thermostat closes the corresponding contacts? I now have the DHW temperature set in the boiler menu, and the boiler temperature sensor is connected to the corresponding connectors in the boiler. For heating, the boiler is not working now, because the temperature in the house is higher than that specified in the umbrella settings. Can the boiler itself turn on to heat water in the boiler?
Answer: if you do not have OT, then the umbrella for the boiler is an ordinary room thermostat. Therefore, the boiler will heat up according to the readings of the boiler temperature sensor and the boiler settings.
Question: A Bosch 6000 gas boiler is installed. When a certain temperature is reached, should it turn off or maintain this temperature by modulating the gas supply? my burner does not turn off, but the temperature stays plus or minus degrees, is it supposed to be like that? And is there any gas overspending in this mode?
Answer: If the minimum power level of the burner corresponds to the heat loss, then the boiler will continue to work. No, there will be no excess gas consumption compared to the "on / off" mode. To optimize flow and increase comfort, it is recommended to install a room temperature sensor.
Question: I plan to install a Bosch boiler with an on / off type regulator. What I don’t understand is: is the circulation pump constantly running or not? When the burner is not working, does the pump drive the coolant? Or is everything turned off? The problem is that my heating pipe passes through a cold vestibule. And in severe frosts there is a negative temperature. I’m thinking, if the pump is turned off and there is no circulation of the coolant (ordinary water), will the pipe in this cold room not be defrosted at a time when it will be warm in the house itself?
Answer: It is configured through the menu from 1 to 10 minutes. ( factory setting- 3 minutes after the burner is switched off).
Question: Boiler BOSCH GAS3000 24kW (closed combustion chamber) in operation for 1 year, the problem started from the first day when the hot water tap was opened, the water temperature fluctuates between hot and cold. I turned to the service center that serviced this product; they came five times to turn something, change the valve, then something else, in the end they changed the brains of this boiler (they said it was an original from Germany).
At first everything seemed to be fine, but then everything started all over again. I noticed that when the heating is off from the mountains. there are no problems with water, the temperature does not walk, and when the house began to heat, everything started all over again. I don’t know who to contact and is it possible to solve this, maybe this is a normal phenomenon for these boilers and in order to comfortably use the shower, you need to install a boiler?
Answer: Options:
1. Flush both heat exchangers.
2.Set the minimum and maximum pressure on the gas valve.
3. Replace the DHW temperature sensor. Option #1 is the most likely.
Question: Tell me: the Bosch wall-mounted boiler stopped, the pressure rose to 3 bar, it gave an E9r error. I tried to restart - earned, after 10 seconds. the pressure jumped to the maximum, I stopped everything, turned it off, released the pressure. I checked the gas pressure - normal, as it was. What could it be?
Answer: If the system is new, then the expansion tank is small, if the old one, then the expansion tank is faulty, or maybe the make-up is poisoning. In your case, the error expansion tank the most probable. If so, then option 2: pump up pressure, replace the tank.
Question: After opening the hot water tap and igniting the burner, the Bosch boiler gives an E2 error (the flow temperature sensor is faulty). This happens in 10-15 seconds. After closing the tap, the error is removed by itself, and the boiler continues to work in heating mode. If the faucet is opened
again, the situation repeats itself.
To complete the picture: An additional circulation pump was installed in the heating circuit, before its installation, the boiler and in heating mode showed an E2 error for a couple of seconds, and then changed to E9 (the heat exchanger temperature limiter worked). Water source - borehole pump(water supply pressure from 2x to 3x without sudden jumps).
Answer: Possible reasons such:
Faulty own circus. pump (if it is only activated with DHW mode?).
- strainer clogged.
- Well, the sensor, probably, should not be ruled out.
Question: There was a choice of buying a boiler. I was specifically interested in the Bosch BW Exclusive ZWC 24–3MFA model. 2 contour turbo. I did not find information on this manufacturer. Anyone with info please share. Interested in quality, reliability, weaknesses, where they are assembled.
Answer: I operate Bosch BW Exclusive ZWC 24-3MFK single-circuit + boiler. The country of manufacture is on all boxes of Wernau, Germany, in fact Turkey has the most modern plant for the production of heating equipment there (a friend worked in Bosch and the issue was studied thoroughly). In terms of reliability: the line is new and there are no special statistics, but the previous lines were very reliable (according to a large number of reviews).
The quality of workmanship is quite high, everything is included in the kit, including the connecting panel on the wall (but still Ball Valves I recommend replacing it). Weaknesses are a plate heat exchanger for preparing hot water and a three-way valve, but with regular maintenance everything will work without failures. The choice is good, but it’s better to take a single-circuit + boiler and don’t save on the controller (I have an FW200).
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