Parallel connection of two heating radiators. How to correctly connect heating batteries - diagrams and methods
What is optimal scheme connection of heating radiators with a one-pipe system? Are bypasses required between tie-ins or can heaters be connected in series? What diameters of filling and eyeliners should be used? What from stop valves does it need to be installed in the plumbing? Let's try to answer these questions.
Her Majesty Leningrad
This is the name of the simplest and probably the most popular.
How did she win the sympathy of specialists?
- Extremely high fault tolerance. If two-pipe schemes can provide uneven heating heating appliances, and in extreme cold even be defrosted, then it is possible only consciously to cause some deviations in the regular work of the Leningrad city.
Dropping of screw valve valves, silting or incorrect balancing will under no circumstances lead to a shutdown of the circuit or its individual sections. - Ease of execution. Even an amateur can design and assemble a Leningradka: to understand the principle of its operation, a minimum of common sense and spatial imagination is enough.
- The ability to work both with forced circulation and with natural circulation, due to the expansion of the heated coolant.
To clarify: minimal modifications will still be needed to switch from forced to natural circulation.
The gravity system includes an accelerating collector (vertical bottling section) immediately after the boiler.
In addition, a bypass with a diameter equal to the filling diameter must be present between the pump taps: it will reduce hydraulic resistance area to a minimum.
Radiators
Choice
Let's start with what should be the heaters in an autonomous circuit. First, let's evaluate the conditions in which they will perform their functions:
As it is easy to see, in the requirements autonomous systems fit with a good margin of the characteristics of inexpensive cast iron and aluminum sectional batteries. Expensive bimetallic products here will clearly turn out to be overkill: their resistance to high pressures and temperatures will not be required.
Next: cast iron aluminum sections vary greatly in mass and internal volume. Both of these directly affect the inertia of the heating system - how long it will take to warm it up to operating temperature and subsequent cooling.
sidebar
Given: the room is surrounded by bottling. Heating devices must be embedded in it. How to do it?
Only correct connection heating radiators with a single-pipe system is carried out parallel to the filling, without breaking it and reducing the diameter. We emphasize once again: between the radiator inserts there is a permanently open bypass with a diameter equal to the filling diameter.
Why? Indeed, it would seem that this should reduce the heat transfer of heating devices, since most of coolant circulates through the filling?
In practice, the temperature drop at any point of the radiator relative to the filling temperature will be minimal.
But a gap or a decrease in the diameter of the filling will create much more problems than they solve:
- The filling gap and the serial connection of heating devices will put an end to their independent adjustment. Any throttling valve will regulate the permeability of the entire filling.
- Reducing the diameter will increase the hydraulic resistance of the circuit, which will inevitably affect the circulation rate of the coolant in gravity mode, with the pump turned off.
Useful: an intermediate solution can be the installation of a full-bore ball valve on each bypass.
Such a scheme will not increase the hydraulic resistance of filling, but is only permissible if the system is serviced by a person who understands its structure well.
It is enough to close the valve on the radiator inlet with the bypass closed - and the entire circuit will be defrosted.
Connection of eyeliners
Connection of heating radiators with a single-pipe heating system can be performed according to one of three schemes:
- One-sided side. Both connections are connected to a pair of radiator plugs on one (right or left) side of the heater.
- Double sided bottom: connection is made through a pair of lower plugs on the left and right.
- Diagonal: the leads enter the top and bottom plugs from opposite sides of the battery.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of each scheme?
A one-sided scheme is practical with a small radiator size (up to 7 sections). In this case, all sections are heated fairly evenly. But with the number of sections 10 or more, the end of the heater will be noticeably colder than the connections.
Connecting a heating radiator to a one-pipe system from the bottom down ensures the circulation of the coolant through any number of sections. However, most of it in this case passes through the lower collector; the top of the sections is heated mainly due to the thermal conductivity of their material.
Finally, the diagonal connection of the heating radiator with a single-pipe system ensures the maximum possible heat transfer for any length of the radiator.
Pipe dimensions
forced circulation
If a constantly running circulation pump is installed in the system, the following conditional pipe passages are used when designing the circuit:
- filling - 25 mm;
- eyeliners with a radiator length of up to 10 sections - 15 mm;
- eyeliner with a radiator length of more than 10 sections - 20 mm.
Please note: for steel pipe nominal bore (DN) approximately corresponds to the inner diameter. Polymer and metal-polymer pipes are marked with an outer diameter; as a rule, it is one step larger than the internal one. So, for polypropylene, diameters 32, 20 and 25 should be used, respectively.
natural circulation
If the circuit is designed to operate in the mode natural circulation, the main task of the designer is to minimize its hydraulic resistance. How to achieve this?
The instruction is not difficult:
- with minimal roughness - metal-plastic or polypropylene;
- the filling diameter increases to at least 40 millimeters.
Strapping elements
One-pipe connection of heating radiators does not require their mandatory balancing; however, it is better to provide for the possibility of turning off individual devices and adjusting their heat transfer.
The optimal set of shut-off and control valves is as follows:
- a ball valve is mounted on the return pipe;
- the supply line is supplied with a throttle or a thermostatic head. The throttle allows you to adjust the heat transfer manually; the thermal head automates the adjustment, maintaining a constant temperature in the room;
- if the radiator is located above the filling, an air vent is installed in one of its upper plugs - a Mayevsky tap.
Conclusion
We hope that the information offered to the attention of the reader will help him in designing his own heating system. To learn more about how radiators are connected with a single-pipe heating system, the video in this article will allow. Good luck!
Heating in a private house is a complex and multicomponent mechanism, and the final elements of this system are radiators, which give off heat to the premises. From the efficiency of heating radiators, hidden or open convectors, batteries or homemade registers depends on the comfort of living and the comfort of housing. Independent development of a heating project, installation and configuration of equipment is difficult, but doable, especially since any do-it-yourself work saves the family budget.
How to choose the optimal and efficient strapping scheme
Simplified, the device of any radiator can be explained as follows: vertical jumpers (radiator sections) are connected to the horizontal upper and lower collectors, and the coolant moves through all these passages - with the help of circulation pump or naturally, under the influence of gravity. Radiators are made of metal, as this material has a high heat transfer coefficient. Also, modern radiators can be bimetallic, which not only increases the heat transfer of the device, but also protects it from premature corrosion.
The radiator manifolds have four outlet threaded holes at the ends - two at the top and two at the bottom, on each side of the case. With any scheme for connecting the heater to the pipes, only two holes will work - for the inlet and outlet of hot water (antifreeze). Four holes are made for the convenience of connecting the battery, depending on its placement in the room. The connection method determines how efficiently the heating radiator will work.
Therefore, before installing radiators, it is necessary to find out which heating scheme is already working in the house, or when arranging heating a house from scratch, decide on the wiring and connection of all equipment. This is the direction of the coolant supply, the reverse flow scheme, the location of the boiler, piping and radiators for each room, plus the insertion of control and adjustment devices - thermostats, taps and other valves.
Single pipe system
In multi-apartment high-rise buildings, a single-pipe system is traditionally mounted, where each heating battery is embedded in a supply pipe, that is, it is connected in series. The disadvantage of this scheme is that each subsequent radiator will be colder than the previous one.
In a single-circuit scheme, a "bypass" is often mounted to enable the repair and prevention of a local area without turning off the entire heating system. A bypass is a pipe jumper that connects the pipes of the route connecting the radiator or pump to a common riser, excluding the radiator itself. An exception to the circuit is made using gates.
The single-pipe heating circuit for distributing the coolant has found application mainly because of the ability to save on materials. Such a connection clearly shows the direction of movement of the coolant.
Two-pipe system
In the implementation of such a heating scheme, two pipes work - for supplying hot coolant, and for returning it to the boiler. With a double-circuit pipe connection, the temperature of the radiator body does not depend on the connection point and its location in the house - the first one or the last one - all radiators warm up the same way. In a two-circuit solution, radiators can be connected to the pipeline in different ways:
Two-way diagonal connection with hot water supply from top to bottom is the most efficient. The coolant moves freely in the upper collector and in sections, giving off heat to the space as much as possible. The circuit provides uniform and equal heating of the radiator in all sections.
The one-way connection scheme with the movement of hot water through the radiator from top to bottom looks more compact during installation, but on condition that both supplies - both direct and reverse - pass vertically through the house. According to this scheme, it is recommended to tie batteries with a small number of sections, and installed in small rooms. The negative side of the circuit is that with a large number of sections, the battery can warm up unevenly, therefore for such a circuit it is recommended to include no more than 12 sections in the device. The rule for calculating the heating system says that with the optimal number of radiators (7 units), heat transfer in the last section will be 3-5% less. Obviously, the longer the device, the colder the sections will be in the direction of movement of the coolant.
A double-sided scheme with a lower (saddle) supply of both pipes allows you to disguise the pipeline under the floor or in niches so as not to spoil the interior. But the heat losses during the saddle connection of radiators increase up to 10-15%, since hot water goes along the lower track in the device, and the upper parts of the sections and the collector at the top are heated according to the residual principle.
Connecting the heater from two sides diagonally and with a bottom supply is similar to the top supply method, but the difference in results is huge. Heat losses reach 20%, because due to the temperature difference at the top and bottom of the body, it is easier for the coolant to move to the beginning of the battery in sections. Therefore, at the top, the radiator will always be hotter than on the opposite side along the bottom of the battery. In fact, the diagonal scheme is rarely used, since there are other, more effective ways to solve the maximum heat transfer to the house.
How to increase the efficiency of the radiator depending on the location
But the installation of batteries has a great influence on the correct connection of heating radiators of the piping scheme, and the place of their installation has a great influence, and for different ways of connecting radiators, specific general rules and requirements regarding, in particular, the location of adjacent items - furniture, household appliances, interior items.
- The maximum heat transfer from the radiator will be at a body length of ≈ 75% or more of the window width;
- The distance between the window sill and the upper wall of the radiator is ≈ 100 mm, or ≤ 75% of the radiator thickness, otherwise it will be difficult for warm air to circulate in a confined space, which will affect the heat transfer efficiency;
- The distance from the floor to the lower wall of the radiator is ≈ 100-120 mm. If it is not possible to make the distance more than 100 mm, this will affect the heat transfer and care of the device. At a distance of more than 120 mm, heat will spread worse across the floor;
- The distance from the wall to the rear wall of the radiator is ≈ 20 mm.
Also, it is not recommended to cover the radiators with decorative grilles or screens, which have too small distances between the bars, cells or holes for the passage of warm air. The width of the window sill also belongs to the problems of effective heat transfer - the plane of the window sill, which completely overlaps the radiator in thickness and even more, will reduce the effect of heating by 2-5%. Thick curtains or curtains also prevent air exchange. Top tips to help keep you warm correct installation radiator are listed below.
The influence of the location of the radiator on its heat transfer
- The heating appliance is fixed to the wall in an open way or located under a window sill covering the body of the appliance by ≤ 75% of its thickness. With such an installation, both main methods of heat transfer - both convection air currents and thermal radiation - are completely preserved. The heat transfer efficiency is taken as 1;
- The window sill closes the radiator throughout its thickness. If the radiator works like infrared emitter, then this is not scary, but convection during operation from the movement of the coolant through the pipes slows down, heat loss can be 3-5% of the radiator power. The power of each device is indicated in the passport, so it is easy to calculate how much heat the room specifically loses, and the owner - money;
- If the barrier is not a window sill, but a niche in the wall, then the losses will be up to 7-8%, since the heat will go to heat the wall;
- A radiator with a decorative grille will not give off 10-12% of heat due to heat loss from infrared radiation;
- The radiator is closed on all sides by a casing with holes or slots. Losses will increase to 20-25%.
What you need to connect the radiator
This is a set of accessories:
- The sections of the radiators are cut with a one-inch internal thread, on the left side of the body - a left-hand thread, on the right side - a right-hand thread, for counter-connection of sections using nipples. The thickness of metal threaded adapters can be different and depends on the thickness of the supply pipes;
- As mentioned above, the radiator is connected to two inputs, and two more need to be plugged with special plastic or metal plugs with external threads. The body of the plugs has a turnkey hexagonal shape;
- But usually one plug is placed on the radiator, and instead of the second, a Mayevsky crane is screwed in. With this regulator, you can bleed the air that appears in the system. The Mayevsky faucet comes with a key to open it, but you can use a regular flat screwdriver to open it;
- Ready-made kits are sold on the market, but you can also purchase each part separately. The kit includes two plugs, a plug for the extreme sections, and a Mayevsky crane. There are also kits that add brackets for attaching the radiator to the wall - there should be two or three of them (for radiators with a large number of sections). The threads on parts in sets are ½ or ¾ inches.
- In order to be able to carry out repairs or maintenance work in the heating system, it will need to be turned off, and for this, it is necessary to provide places in the scheme for inserting ball valves with a coupling connection with an “American” nut. Such kits will make the repair or installation of the system much easier;
- For balancing and efficient heat dissipation by the radiator Ball Valves also installed at the inlet and outlet of the piping. Special taps with an adjusting screw plug are sold - after the system is adjusted, the setting must be protected from outside interference.
- Working tools that will be needed for installation and adjustment of heating: open-ended (from size 11 x 12 to 22 x 24) and / or adjustable wrenches, winding (tow or FUM tape) sealing paste. To fix the radiator on the wall, you will need an impact drill or puncher, as well as a level, tape measure, pencil.
How to lay pipes around a house or apartment, where to install taps and thermostats, how to organize beam or other types of pipe wiring, should be considered separately, since many practical solutions have been worked out - both open (closed) pipe laying, and schemes, the optimal use of which depends on pipe material, and other options for schemes.
Connection of heating radiators updated: March 8, 2017 by: crunch0
An important issue when installing heating in a house is the choice of a radiator connection scheme. By making the right decision, you optimize your heating costs, both during installation and operation of the equipment. It is important that the radiator connection scheme is correctly matched to your home heating system.
Bottom connection of radiators
With this connection, the supply pipe, like the return pipe, enters the lower battery plugs. The coolant has a priority direction of movement along the lower collector. Additional heat transfer is carried out due to the fact that the heated coolant rises up the radiator. Such a scheme is the most cost-effective in terms of materials, and it is convenient to carry it out even when doing do-it-yourself work in one hand.
Most often, such a scheme is used when installing a single-pipe heating system, it allows you to quietly run the pipe, and when laying the main pipe into the floor, leave only short pipes for connecting the battery in sight.
One significant disadvantage of such a connection of radiators is the reduced heat transfer efficiency compared to a diagonal connection on a two-pipe system. The difference is about 12-15%.
However, it should be noted that when installing heating in a small house with a small budget, including for heating, the use of this scheme is justified, and in the future you will never think about these percentages. The scheme is reliable, time-tested and serves faithfully for more than one generation of owners of private houses.
In our opinion, the scheme is not acceptable when heating is operating without a pump. Another feature of it should be noted the need to perform on a single-pipe system "brakes" under the radiator, sections of narrowing the diameter of the main pipe between two tie-in points. This narrowing allows you to redirect the coolant flow through the radiator, and not past. However, as already mentioned, such a scheme should not be used with a significant length of the pipeline of the heating system.
It is possible to use a similar scheme for two-pipe wiring, however, here the connection scheme loses its advantages while maintaining its disadvantages.
Diagonal connection to a two-pipe system
The most correct in terms of heat transfer is heating, made in a two-pipe design, with a diagonal connection of radiators. The supply pipe is connected to the top plug, and the return pipe is connected to the bottom, on the opposite side. Such a system is taken in the calculations for 100% efficiency. But among others, it is a more costly system in terms of materials and execution time.
With a diagonal connection, the hot coolant at the inlet to the radiator and along the upper collector meets the room air already heated in the lower parts of the radiator and heats it up to more high temperature. Thus, the heat transferred from the coolant (water) to the air in the house is used with the greatest efficiency.
A minor drawback of this connection system, as mentioned above, will be the impossibility of adding additional sections without cutting the pipes and overcooking them. However, with a careful calculation of the number of radiators at the system design stage, this disadvantage can be ignored.
The diagonal connection proved to be excellent when working with forced circulation and with self-circulation. In systems operating on natural circulation, diagonal wiring makes it possible to abandon the installation of thermostatic valves, which reduces the hydraulic resistance of the piping system and has a positive effect on the operation of the system. True, radiator valves with minimal resistance are currently being produced, and we recommend installing them for ease of maintenance.
Of course, a diagonal connection of heating batteries is the most desirable, but this is not always clearly possible.
Diagonal connection for one-pipe distribution
In this way, they try to get away from those 12-15% decrease in heat transfer efficiency with lower wiring. The connection takes place in the upper radiator cap and in the opposite lower one, while maintaining the sequence of connecting the batteries in the circuit.
The use of a diagonal connection of radiators on a single-pipe system does not provide the advantages that it has when performed on a two-pipe wiring. Along the contour, the skew in terms of heat transfer and coolant temperature increases significantly. In fact, most of the heat is discarded in the first heat exchangers. Even the presence of a bypass will no longer correct the situation.
One way connection
It is a worthy alternative to a diagonal connection and has its own characteristics. The supply pipe enters the upper radiator cap, and the return pipe enters the lower one on the same side. The efficiency of such a connection is 2-7% lower than that of a diagonal one.
1. Two-pipe wiring. 2. One-pipe wiring
Such a connection is often used in heating systems with risers going from one floor to another. Many use it when it is not possible to install the proper number of battery sections already during the initial installation, and it is planned to increase their number in the future. One-way connection allows at any time, in the presence of valves, to add a certain number of sections.
"Leningradka" is the most common, cost-effective one-pipe heating system (see diagram). It is used in apartments and houses of a small area. It can be vertical - in the entrances of the house between floors, and horizontal - in a room or on one floor.
It is possible to connect radiators with a lower and upper connection to a one-pipe heating system. If the radiator has a lower wiring, then the coolant is installed below the level of the heating devices, pipes run horizontally from it, which then rise up to the batteries. For upper wiring, on the contrary, the coolant is installed at the highest point of the heating system, and from there the water circulates.
Only in single-pipe heating schemes are used to shut off water. They are located on the so-called branch sections, the volume of which is several times smaller than the main pipes of the heating system.
About the pros and cons
A single-pipe heating scheme has advantages:
- The simplicity of the scheme.
- Ease of installation.
- Saving building materials.
This is most suitable for small heated areas. It also has a number of disadvantages:
- The farther the radiator is from the coolant, the lower the heating temperature.
- Impossibility and inexpediency of connecting more than 10 radiators to one system.
- It is not possible to regulate the heat supply.
This means that it is advisable to make radiators that are the most distant from the heater, with a larger surface area. And in such a scheme it is impossible to regulate the heat supply, everything is included in the design calculations. Maybe that's why we sometimes freeze in our apartments, and sometimes we suffer from the heat. But one thing is clear, up to 10 radiators must be connected to a single-pipe heating system, otherwise there will be no benefit from cold heaters.
Prepare tools
Of course, you need to ensure the connection is correct in terms of maintenance and operation. To do this, you need to prepare:
- Racks for a radiator.
- Perforator.
- Tools: screwdriver, hammers, soldering iron.
- In the apartments - grinders (230, 125th, depending on the pipes).
- All kinds of nozzles with which you will attach the radiator to the heating system.
- Special tubular soldering iron.
Connection methods
You can connect to pipes in different ways, depending on the installation location and the laying of pipes in the room and, of course, the heating scheme:
- Diagonally.
- Verticals.
- Bottom.
- Above.
When the connection method is selected (see diagram), you must:
Carving correctly
Decor threaded connections it is produced, as experts insistently require, only with the help of linen in combination with unipack. And when connecting a radiator to any heating system, you can’t do without threaded connections - you need to install a tap and a regulator valve, the device is a must. it can even accumulate from the fact that the pipes are incorrectly tilted or located, then you can’t do without a Mayevsky crane.
General provisions
Excessive reinforcing items affect the quality of the heating system and cause its elements to wear out faster. Loose pipes and connections (without collars and clamps) last much longer. This must be taken into account when connecting batteries to the system.
It must also be taken into account that all heating system must be of the same material: polypropylene, metal (of the same brand).
Connection single pipe system heating is suitable for small cottages, apartments.
This closed system (see diagram) will heat a room in which no more than 10 radiators can be placed. Rest heating appliances will not make sense (even a large volume of surface), since as they get further away, cooled water will simply reach them through pipes.
Single-pipe systems are simple both in terms of scheme and installation. They are more cost effective and low cost.