How to know that the heating system is filled with water. How to fill a closed-type heating system with any type of heat carrier
If you live in the suburbs of a big city or in low-rise or private buildings, then autonomous, that is, independent systems, are almost always used for heating.
They serve as fuel:
- natural gas - gaseous or liquefied,
- liquid fuel - fuel oil, diesel fuel, furnace, diesel, etc.,
- solid fuel - hard or brown coal, firewood, wood briquettes or pellets, peat, etc.
What is the difference between a closed autonomous heating system and an open one?
Liquid autonomous system heating country house ensures the supply of hot coolant to heat exchangers that transfer heat from water or antifreeze to indoor air.
Features of the open system
When the coolant is heated, it expands and the excess part of the heated water must either be removed from the system, or it, remaining in pipelines, radiators, boilers, etc., is forced to increase the pressure in the system.
Attention
Such an increase can end very badly for pipelines and radiators - excess pressure can break radiators, leak at threaded joints, taps, valves, valves, pumps, boilers, etc.
To prevent this from happening, a vertical outlet is made in the form of a fitting in the upper part of the pipeline system, which ends with a container. It is called expansion and serves to accumulate excess fluid coolant of the system, which is displaced into this container during heating operation. The pressure in such a system is determined by the height of the liquid column from the bottom of the coil in the heating boiler to the surface of the liquid in the expansion vessel.
Such a system is called open, since at the same time the system of heating pipelines and all devices is not tightly closed, but has communication with the atmosphere. Therefore, the pressure in it is determined by the height of the system.
Features of the closed system
If the system in its upper part is closed, then so that the elements of this system do not burst from the rising pressure, an expansion tank is also built into it, but it does not have an open connection with the atmosphere.
This connection is “sealed” using a “membrane” expansion tank, in which the inlet of the displaced water is located under the flexible membrane, and above it is a free sealed cavity filled with gas.
The displaced water compresses the gas and the pressure in the system rises slightly. A safety gas valve is installed at the top of the tank.
Pressure in closed system more than in an open one, and there can be from 1 to 3 - 4 ati - excess atmospheres, i.e. more than natural atmospheric pressure.
Filling a closed heating system
The system is filled by feeding the boiler using an electric pump or a manual pressure tester, the system itself is filled with prepared (or network) water or a special antifreeze (low-freezing coolant).
Along the way, air descends throughout the system, wherever possible (faucets on radiators, air vents in the system). When the desired pressure is reached and provided that the air itself does not poison anywhere, you can start the system.
Step-by-step instruction:
Step 1
We start by checking the condition of the elements of the system: the drain valves are closed, all air needle valves (Maevsky taps) at the upper points of the heating system, including those on the radiators.
Step 2
Open the valves of the supply and return pipes of the boiler. If the valves are with handles, then they must be parallel to the pipe.
Step 3
Opening the filling valve cold water on the system - we let water into the boiler. At the same time, you can hear the flow of water in the pipes.
Step 4
We control the pressure on the pressure gauge on the boiler. After waiting for the pressure to increase to 1.3 - 1.8 bar, turn off the cold water tap.
Step 5
Alternately, starting from the top, we open the valves (Maevsky taps) on the battery registers and pipes, and remove the air. We put a rag, saucepan or basin under the flowing water. In this case, the pressure will drop, and the drop must be compensated by opening the filling valve. In a low-rise building - up to 1.5 - 2 bar. Lower value for a cold system.
Step 6
After filling the system with water, check all joints for leaks.
Step 7
You can start the boiler and enjoy the warmth.
Pay attention
The described procedure is quite general in nature and may deviate from the described process on a specific heating system. You can entrust the filling of the heating system and the question "how to fill the heating system?" won't be a problem for you.
This article is part (No. 2) of a new series of articles under the code name "Heating from A to Z".
Let's take a look at a very tricky question today. How to pour water into the heating system and at the same time do it right? Correct - means with fewer problems and in a shorter time.
Water can be poured into the system from above and below. The first method seems simple and always comes to mind first, but in fact this method is not the best. Filling water from below is much more correct and delivers less hassle. But this is only possible if your system allows it. And now in more detail.
Open and closed heating systems
Heating systems, according to their design, are divided into two large classes. The so-called open and closed. Only an open system can be filled from the top as it is open (has an open expansion tank). But both systems can be filled from below. About the subtleties of open and closed heating systems on the same site.
You can fill an open system both from above and from below. A closed system can only be filled from below.
In fact
a closed system can also be filled from above, and from the middle, and generally from anywhere. But these are absurd options, so we will not consider them.
How to fill water into the heating system through the expansion tank, that is, from above
Thus, if you have an open system, then we take a bucket or a hose, climb with it to the attic or to where the expansion tank is located, remove the lid from it, insert a large watering can into the neck of the tank, or stick the end of the hose directly into the tank. After that we pour water. Our cistern should have a device, usually a simple transparent tube that shows the water level in the cistern. We must know when to stop! In addition, on the tank, at its very top, there should be an outlet for excess water. Roughly speaking, this is a branch pipe to which a hose is connected to the sewer.
Water, theoretically, should drain down the pipes and fill the system. But this is only theoretical. The fact is that the water, going down, forms bubbles. The water compresses the air at the bottom of the system. The air needs to get out. The air must come out, again, upwards. Through the same pipes through which water is poured. And in this a big problem. While water moves down the pipes, air cannot move up through the same pipes. This means that we cannot fill in constantly in principle. We can pour water and then wait. First wait for the bubbles to go. Then wait until they stop walking. And only after that we can pour a new portion of water into the tank. Thus, we fill, as it seems to us, a complete system. At least there is water in the tank and does not go anywhere. But believe me, it's still too early to turn on the heat! We need to go to each radiator and bleed air from each. Each radiator is a kind of air trap. There is simply nowhere for him to leave the radiator! At the same time, we need to make sure that the water does not completely leave the tank. After all, if it leaves from there, empty pipes will form, which means that when water is poured into them, new air cavities, bubbles, will form, which will have to come out.
So, we go down to the radiators. Do we have air bleeders on the radiators? If there is, then it’s good, if not, then everything becomes very complicated and the issue of pouring heating acquires the status of not a big, but a very big problem. We need to spin something to drain the water and, quite possibly, this will not be enough to release air from the radiators. But let's not talk about sad things! We will assume that we have on each radiator the so-called Mayevsky taps, or air release valves. We unscrew them one by one and let the air out until water flows out. As already indicated, do not forget to add water to the expansion tank.
After the air is bled from all radiators, you can already try to start the boiler. If at the same time the boiler heats up, but the pipes do not heat up, then we can only wait. How? Maybe a day. Or maybe a week. And there may be times this week when we kind of wake up in the middle of the night and hear the bubble inside our heating suddenly start moving upwards with a characteristic gurgling sound. Here they are - the delights of an open heating system!
Pipe slope
In order for the air to escape from the heating system itself, all pipes must have a slope. Slope towards the expansion tank. Bubbles should rise up. They will also gradually rise along the gentle pipes. It is only necessary that the pipes have a slope in the right direction and that there are no cavities and loops. It is quite possible to lay pipes in such a way that air will collect in them, which will never come out of them, which means that there will never be circulation in the system. Moreover, most often in the entire system, or in the entire branch.
But the slope of the pipes is important not only for an open heating system! Unfortunately, other articles about heating are written in such a way that it begins to seem that in a closed system the slope of the pipes is unimportant and unnecessary. This is not true! The slope of the pipes in the heating system is always needed. And where should the slope be in a closed system? There is no open expansion tank at the highest point!
The slope of pipes in a closed heating system must be exactly the same as in an open one. Ideally, the pipes should rise steeply from the boiler to the highest point, and then smoothly descend to the last, farthest radiator. An air release valve must be installed at the highest point. When draining water from the heating system, water must not stagnate in any of its places. It should pour out completely, and by gravity. And this is also due to the slopes of the pipes.
How to pour water from below?
Let's turn to the lowest point of our heating system. At this point there should be a tap to drain the water from the system. If this tap is not at the lowest point, we will not be able to drain the water completely and something will definitely remain. So most likely this point will be even lower than the boiler. That's about the same place, next to, in the immediate vicinity of this tap, there should be a pipe for pouring heating. At the end of this pipe is a check valve. It lets water into the system, but does not let it out. It remains for us to connect the outlet of the water supply with a tap to this valve. Opening the tap, water from the water supply rushes into the system. The pressure developed by the water supply must be greater than or equal to the maximum allowable pressure in our heating system. For two-story house with a boiler in the basement, one - one and a half atmosphere is enough.
Heating inlet assembly (ver.1)
The principle of pouring heating from below is that we do not form air cushion under a layer of water. We have all the air accumulated at the highest point of the system, and we support it with water. Well, in radiators, of course, because, as I said, each radiator is an air trap.
Strategy #1 (quick)
We can immediately open the Mayevsky crane at the highest point. We can unscrew (open) all the valves! Only under each unscrewed valve you need to put a wide trough into which water will drain when the system is full. The hole in the valve is very small. A millimeter of everything, so a lot of water will not leak. Especially if you quickly run around the house with a screwdriver.
In short, the valves were unscrewed, the water tap was quietly (but not too quietly) opened, and the system began to fill. Then we have a range of options. We can open the water slightly, go to the radiator that should be filled first, and wait for it until water flows from the valve. Flowed? We twist and run to the next valve. So gradually run around all the valves and twist them. After that, the system is considered flooded and can be turned on. If the house is not too big, then you can fill the entire system in half an hour. Long live modern heating systems! But it is better to execute this strategy, nevertheless, with an assistant who understands the issue and will not spoil anything (the wife will not work). The fact is that it may well turn out that water enters the system too quickly and you either do not have time to tighten all the valves, or the pressure will rise too much. Then you will want to shut off the water supply. For this, there must be someone who will quickly and without additional questions do it and save the whole event.
Strategy #2 (long)
We do not have enough wide containers to put them under each valve. Then we do not unscrew the valves. We fill in water until the pressure on our pressure gauge rises to a maximum (usually 1.5 atmospheres). After that, we go to the first valve with a mug and a screwdriver and bleed all the air. The pressure will drop. We go down and again give pressure to the maximum. And so we repeat until water flows out of our valve. After that, we go to the next valve and repeat everything. With this strategy, you can fill the water in 2 hours. But don't spill a drop! And work, by the way, alone.
It would be a good idea to put faucet wife and tell her to keep up the pressure. That is, for the arrow to be "right here." My wife is very good at this. She even seems to like it.
Strategy #3 (intermediate)
Personally, in my heating system there is a storage boiler. It has quite a lot of water in it. Liters 60. And panel radiators. They hold very little water. And my tubes are thin. That is, the main water in my boiler. At the outlet of the boiler I have a circulation pump. The pump has an air release valve. I unscrew this valve and fill the entire boiler. As soon as water has flowed from the motor (from its valve), I begin to act on strategy number 2. And I fill my system somewhere in an hour and a half.
Is it possible to use a tap to drain the water to fill the system from below?
Yes. Can. But it's not that convenient. It is better to have a separate inlet assembly with a check valve. The fact is that the inlet of water into the system is not a one-time and dead function. You have to refill the water quite often. At least within a month or two after a fresh fill. This is due to the release of air, which is contained in the water itself.
Is it true that when filling the heating system from below, we can immediately turn it on?
Yes! True truth. But you need to take into account that the air will still accumulate in the traps (radiators) for quite a long time. We have filled living water! It contains gases. As these gases escape, it is necessary to pass through the radiators and bleed air from them. You will immediately see that air does not accumulate in all radiators, but only in some. This is fine.
How to fill the system not with water, but with another substance?
The desire to fill in antifreeze immediately gives rise to many problems. We can't pour from the plumbing, and pouring from above is terribly boring. In addition, we will definitely spill quite a lot of valuable and expensive antifreeze. And in a closed system, you can’t pour anything from above at all. One way or another, you will have to succumb to fluids at the very end to create excess pressure.
I can offer only two options. Pour from the bottom either with a hand pump or from a bucket with some kind of electric one. But not every electric can work with liquids other than water. This issue needs to be specially studied. Hand pumps are available. They are called pressurized. They cost more than 8 thousand rubles and are clearly professional tools. Honestly, I'm even afraid to imagine that someday I will need to fill in antifreeze into the system. I can only tentatively theorize on this subject.
Well, first of all, I would think about antifreeze at the system design stage. I would focus on the capacity of the system. I would use thin pipes, panel radiators and some flow-through, non-storage boilers, if any. For filling, I would buy a pump. Absolutely there are pumps for pumping technical liquids. They are much more expensive than usual and are usually made of stainless steel. The pump must be designed for a suitable pressure (from 2-3 atmospheres) and have, if possible, not too significant performance. Well, 10-15 liters per minute. I would pour from a large bucket. That is, the pump must be small. There are no small professional pumps! Non-professional "sharpened" only for water.
I have thoughts about hand pumps. I will write, but not within the framework of this article. The hand pump remains relevant, because in the process of life, we have to pump fluid into the system.
You can attach a long hose to the non-return valve, then take the end of this hose and go with it to your own attic. There, insert a watering can into the end of the hose and fill the system from there. It turns out, as it were, from above (from the attic), but at the same time, from below. The question is - how much antifreeze will remain in the hose and how to pour it out so as not to spill it? The idea seems theoretically working, but I foresee many problems from a practical point of view.
Conclusion
The conclusion is very simple. In order to avoid problems, it is necessary to choose the right heating scheme (closed two-pipe), design convenient places in the system for filling and draining the coolant, and when creating it, monitor the slopes of the pipes. And you won't have any problems! You will live and be happy!
And if you do not live in the house permanently, but only come a couple of times during the winter, then instead of using antifreeze, I would very much think about electric heating. It will be much cheaper, by the way.
I hope that the process of filling your heating system will not bring you negative emotions.
Dmitry Belkin
An important question that arises after the installation is completed heating appliances, regarding how to fill the heating system closed type and put it into operation. The process is simple, although its features cause typical difficulties for ordinary users. These include the choice of injection point and coolant pressure.
Open and closed heating systems: filling principle
An open system is equipped with an expansion tank at its highest point. The surface of the heat-transfer fluid in it is in direct contact with atmospheric air. The closed system is equipped with a diaphragm expansion tank hermetically isolated from the atmosphere.
Heating systems of any type can be filled as follows:
- tap water supplied to the lowest point of the system - through the make-up valve;
- water (distilled) or antifreeze, supplying liquid from a container (well, reservoir):
- pouring manually and / or by means of a pump to the upper point (a fitting for an air vent or through an open expansion tank);
- by pumping through the lowest point - make-up inlet.
Many homeowners know the simplest (and worst!) way to fill open systems is via an expansion tank. Water / antifreeze is poured in intermittently to release air. It is not recommended to repeat this method in closed systems, using the nozzles of the upper air vents. The air that initially fills the system passes upward through the layer of water being poured, dissolving in it. Air locks, preventing the flow of water through pipes and radiators, you will be guaranteed.
Then how to fill a closed heating system? The recommended way to fill any heating system is to supply liquid under pressure (from a water pipe or tank using a pump) through the bottom make-up valve.
When filling with coolant
There are only two situations that require the implementation of this technological operation:
- heating start-up (at the beginning heating season);
- restart after repair work.
Usually, the heat carrier water is drained in late spring for two reasons:
- Water is inevitably polluted by corrosion products (inside radiators, metal-plastic and polypropylene pipes are not subject to it). Leaving the old water for the new season, you risk breaking the circulation pump with solid contaminants.
- Non-started flooded systems country houses can “thaw out” during a sudden cold snap - such cases are not uncommon.
In this sense, the coolant-antifreeze is preferable. The high-quality composition has high anti-corrosion properties, which increase the “drainage” interval up to 5-6 years. There are known cases of uninterrupted operation of heating on the same volume of antifreeze for 15-17 years. Low-quality antifreeze is recommended to be drained after 2-3 years.
Filling technology: where to supply the coolant
The necessary means are a container and a pump that creates the required pressure of the heat transfer fluid. Submersible type "Gnome" or "Baby" are quite suitable (popular with gardeners who use them to irrigate areas located above the levels of water bodies). There is evidence of successful filling of closed systems with hand pumps ranging from those used for spraying horticultural crops with protective solutions to specialized hand pumps used for drumming motor fuels or liquid chemicals. Any heating scheme can be successfully filled by controlling the pressure on the manometer.
The first operation is to select the fluid entry point. If the pressure created by the pump raises the liquid to the top of the system, it should be connected at the lowest point of the boiler room - the coolant feed pipe, embedded in front of the boiler into the "return". In addition to the make-up inlet, a structurally separate drain outlet is required (two different system nodes). The first is equipped with a valve (ball valve) and a check valve, the second - only with a valve (ball valve). If the lowest point of the system is the boiler outlet, then the system can be drained/filled with water through it. Since a non-return valve is not installed behind the boiler drain (generally behind the drain), any shutdown of the pump will result in the outflow of the pumped liquid - you need to quickly turn off the tap in front of the fitting.
We fill the system from below
So, back to pumping fluid into the system. We use a container of a suitable volume (a plastic barrel with a volume of 200 liters is well suited). We lower the pump into it, which creates the pressure required for pumping the liquid no higher than 1.5 atm ( typical value in the range of 1-1.2 atm). Such pressure requires the creation of a pressure head of 15 m by the pump (for the submersible "Baby" it reaches 40 m).
After filling the barrel with water, we start the pump, monitoring the liquid level, which should be located above its inlet to prevent "airing". The level drops - add water. Antifreeze should be pumped from a smaller container (bucket) so as not to immerse the body in liquid submersible pump(and then do not wash) - just immerse the inlet pipe. You will have to add antifreeze often, periodically turning off the pump.
The filling of the system is carried out with open Mayevsky taps on installed radiators heating with substituted containers for collecting water. When the liquid comes out of all the air vents, close the valves, continuing the pumping process.
We control the pressure on the pressure gauge (the boiler device is suitable). When its value exceeds the hydrostatic one, equal to the pressure in the liquid column with a height from the lower to the upper point of the system (a height of 5 m gives a static pressure of 0.5 atm), we continue to fill the system, monitoring the pressure gauge when the pressure reaches the required value.
After filling the system, turn off the pump, open the air valves (the pressure will inevitably drop), and then pump up the water. We repeat the process several times, displacing air bubbles.
We complete the filling by inspecting the system for leaks. After the pump is switched off, the hose connected to the outlet is under pressure. If antifreeze was pumped in, first disconnect the hose from the pump inlet and drain the liquid into a container, trying not to pour over the mechanism body.
How to properly fill a closed-type heating system from above
If there is no electric pump, then filling a system with a height difference of the lower and upper points from 10 m using a manual pump is a rather tedious procedure. In this case, the closed system can be filled through the top point (for example, the fitting for connecting an automatic air vent) by gravity with the drain cock open at the bottom point until water starts to flow out of it. The drain valve is closed, and we have at the lowest point of the system a static pressure equal to the pressure in the liquid column to the top point (at 10 m, the pressure will be 1 atm).
Now you need to increase the pressure to the calculated level no higher than 1.5 atm. We connect to any fitting of the system through ball valve a regular watering hose is about 1.5 meters long. We come up with an easily removable adapter for it to the hose of a conventional automobile pump with a pressure gauge. We fill the vertically straightened hose with water, connect the pump through the adapter and pump water from the hose into the system with air. Close the ball valve. 3-5 repetitions of the process are enough to increase the initial static pressure at any point in the system by 0.5 atm. Avoid pumping air into it.
Selection of pressure values in the system and expansion tank
The higher the operating pressure of the coolant, the less likely it is for air to enter the system. It must be remembered that the operating pressure is limited to the maximum permissible value for the heating boiler. If, when filling the system, a static pressure of 1.5 atm (15 m of water column) was reached, then the circulation pump with a head of 6 m of water. Art. will create a pressure of 15 + 6 = 21 m of water column at the entrance to the boiler.
Some types of boilers have an operating pressure of about 2 atm = 20 m of water column. Be careful not to overload the boiler heat exchanger unacceptably high pressure coolant!
The diaphragm expansion vessel is supplied with a factory set pressure of inert gas (nitrogen) in the gas cavity. Its common value is 1.5 atm (or bar, which is almost the same). This level can be raised by pumping air into the gas cavity with a hand pump.
Initially, the internal volume of the tank is completely occupied by nitrogen, the membrane is pressed by gas to the body. That is why it is customary to fill closed systems to a pressure level not higher than 1.5 atm (maximum 1.6 atm). Then by installing the expansion tank on the "return" in front of circulation pump, we will not get a change in its internal volume - the membrane will remain motionless. Heating the coolant will lead to an increase in its pressure, the membrane will move away from the tank body and compress the nitrogen. The gas pressure will increase, balancing the coolant pressure at a new static level.
Filling the system to a pressure of 2 atm will allow the cold coolant to immediately compress the membrane, which will also compress nitrogen to a pressure of 2 atm. Heating water from 0 °C to 100 °C increases its volume by 4.33%. The additional volume of liquid must flow into the expansion tank. A large volume of coolant in the system gives a large increment during heating. Too much initial pressure of the cold coolant will immediately use up the capacity of the expansion tank, it will not be enough to receive excess heated water (antifreeze). Therefore, it is important to fill the system to a correctly defined coolant pressure level. When filling the system with antifreeze, you need to remember about its higher coefficient of thermal expansion than that of water, which requires the installation of a larger expansion tank.
Conclusion
Filling closed heating systems is not just a standard final operation before commissioning. Performing this step correctly or incorrectly can seriously affect the performance of the system, in the worst case, even disable it. Compliance with filling technology is the key to obtaining stable heating.
Options for pouring water into a closed-type heating system
Before you figure out how you can pour water into a closed-type heating system, you need to decide on the system itself and find out what elements it consists of and why it is called that.
Let's start with the fact that there are two types of it:
In the first case, the coolant comes into contact with outside air through an expansion tank, which is installed at the highest point of the heating network. The expansion tank itself performs the function of collecting the coolant, which expands with increasing temperature. One of the laws of physics is at work here. Usually an open heating system is used if the principle of natural circulation of the coolant is applied.
We will talk about closed-type heating. From the name itself it is clear that this system is sealed, and in it the coolant does not come into contact with the outside air. hallmark This type is the presence of two elements - a circulation pump and a membrane expansion tank. It turns out that in a closed-type heating system, the principle of forced circulation of the coolant is used.
And just a few words about the membrane expansion tank, because it plays one of the most important roles. This is a hermetic structure, divided inside by a rubber membrane. The lower part is usually filled with a coolant, and the upper part is filled with air pumped in at the factory at a pressure of 1.5 kg / cm² (atm.). When expanding, the coolant presses on the membrane, raising it to a certain level. Pressurized air resists this. It turns out that inside the heating network the coolant pressure will always be 1.5 atm.
Closed type heating circuit
Now about the heating itself. If the house has a centralized water supply network, then there will be no problems with filling. In the water supply system, water is always under pressure of 3-4 atm. and this is enough to fill the heating network. To do this, the boiler is connected to the water supply, and a shut-off valve is installed between them. When it is opened, filling occurs, and the air inside the system is bled through the Mayevsky taps installed on the radiators.
To drain the coolant at the lowest point, a drain pipe with a valve is mounted. it important element heating circuit when it comes to pouring water into it in the absence of a water pipe in a suburban village.
Scheme heating system
The filling options for closed-type heating are as follows:
- You will need a pump with which you can take water from a well, well or any open body of water. The pump discharge hose is connected to the drain pipe, on which the valve opens. It turns out direct access to heating. It is in this way that closed-type heating can be filled. In this case, all available taps open completely. This is especially true for Mayevsky taps, through which the air from the inside is etched out.
Please note that the supply pump may have a higher pressure than is necessary for heating. Therefore, be sure to follow this indicator on the pressure gauge installed in the pipeline or in the boiler.
When using the last filling option, the question arises, how will the necessary pressure be created? Everything is simple here. A nipple is located at the top of the expansion tank, with which air is bled if an overpressure situation occurs inside the tank. So the nipple can be easily removed. A hose from a conventional bicycle pump is applied to the hole from the nipple, and the last one is pumped. Pay attention to the pressure gauge - as soon as the indicator reaches the level of 1.5 atm. stop downloading.
Here's how to fill a closed heating system. Of course, the best option is to use a pump to pump water. By the way, you can take a low-power unit. To do this, install a metal barrel or other tank near the house, fill it with buckets of water from an open reservoir (you can use the collected rainwater), connect the pump to the heating, and lower the other hose (suction) into the barrel. If the volume of the tank is less than the required volume of the coolant, when the pumping device is operating, carry water in buckets and pour it into a barrel.
And the last thing about air bleeding. This is a serious and difficult matter. You will have to bleed it from each heater. This will take some time, but this procedure cannot be neglected. There should not be a single bubble left inside the system, as this affects the efficiency of work.
Conclusion on the topic
The closed type of circuit is the most efficient. The fact is that the coolant begins to evaporate at high temperatures. And if there is a way out for the vapors, then the volume of the coolant will decrease. You will have to constantly monitor this and fill the network with water through a water pipe or buckets. In cases with buckets, this causes a lot of trouble. But all this can be avoided.
Filling the heating system with water - do-it-yourself pumping
As you know, for normal operation, the heating system requires such an important element as the coolant, which is usually water. However, not everyone can figure out how the heating system should be filled with water immediately before it is turned on. In addition, it is important to mention how water is pumped into the heating system after interrupting its operation. These and some other procedures related to filling the heating system with coolant will be discussed further.
The need to fill the heating system with water
Of course, one of the frequent cases associated with the drainage of the heating system is the carrying out of any repair work. Water is drained in case of replacement and installation of shut-off valves, as well as during damage to sections of the common riser.
It would also be quite useful to reset the heating system in the warm season, especially for radiators made of cast iron, which is associated with one unpleasant feature of such equipment: during operation, the gaskets inside such batteries, made of resistant to high temperature rubber lose their elasticity.
In that situation, if the radiator is hot, then the sections of the device expand slightly, which inevitably entails compression of such gaskets. And when cooling down, leaks may appear at the joints, which is especially often observed in outdated equipment. In many cases, it is simply not possible to replace failed gaskets in any way, which is why utility workers recommend draining water from the system in the warm season.
However, such a draining of the system can lead to unpleasant consequences, the most significant of which are the following:
- in the event that the equipment is turned on again, there will be an urgent need to get rid of air plugs formed in the system. Most radiators are equipped with Mayevsky taps specially designed for this, which are located at the upper points of the devices, however, there are situations when the owners are not in place and, as a result, there is no one to ventilate the system;
- the appearance of air inside the pipeline will also adversely affect the structural integrity of the equipment, since, as is known, oxygen, interacting with water, greatly accelerates the corrosion of metal parts, which significantly reduces the service life of the entire heat supply system as a whole.
Whether it is necessary to fill the heating system of a private building in the summer time depends on the following two criteria:
- Firstly, from the material from which the pipes are made and heating appliances systems. For example, steel, which has low resistance to corrosion, should not be left without water for a long time. But if we are talking about aluminum or polymer pipes, then in this case there is nothing to be afraid of, since such products are not threatened by the appearance of rust.
- Secondly, how much water is available in the heating system. If there is a lot of it, then dumping a large amount of coolant will not be an entirely economical solution, since subsequently you will have to fill new water, and in private buildings, water consumption, as you know, is measured by a meter. One way or another, the consumption of water in the heating system of a private house will not cause too serious losses, but even if there is no desire to overpay, you can refuse to drain.
How to fill the heating system with water
To understand how to fill the heating system with water, which operates on the principle of bottom filling, you should remember the following algorithm of actions:
- even before filling the heating system in a private house, the valve on the supply pipeline must be pushed in, and the discharge must be opened in the supply area;
- then on the return pipe you need to slowly open the valve. In the event that the speed of the water in the heating system at the outlet is high, then there is a risk of water hammer, which can lead to the most unpleasant consequences, including the separation of heating batteries;
- then you need to wait until the water, devoid of air, goes;
- then the discharge is blocked, and the supply valve, on the contrary, opens;
- after that, it is necessary to completely vent all areas of heating in the entrance to which there is access, including office premises.
It is important to remember that the circulation of water in a heating system with top filling is different, so it is much easier to fill such a pipeline with coolant. To do this, it will be enough to slowly open the valves on the supply and return (the discharges are closed at the same time), and then remove air from the air vent in the expansion tank, which is located in the attic of a multi-storey building.
The principle of starting an open heating system, water treatment
There are no difficulties in such work, since no calculation of water in a heating system of this type needs to be performed. All that is required is to pour a few buckets of water into the expansion tank so that it is visible at its bottom. It is absolutely not worth trying to fill the closed-type heating system with some margin, otherwise, due to the heating of the coolant during the operation of the heating system, its volume will increase and water will flow over the edge of the expansion tank.
In the event that the entire system is assembled by hand, it is very important to check all the joints of the equipment parts and its threads in order to avoid leaks in the future.
Features of starting a closed heating system with distilled water
Filling a closed heating system with water has the following features:
- for the circulation pump and the heating boiler to work properly, the pressure in the system must be somewhat excessive. Experts say that this parameter should be at least 1.5 kgf / cm²;
- before starting the system, it is required to pressurize it with a pressure one and a half times higher than the norm. It is especially important to perform this procedure for rooms equipped with a floor heating system, since this heating element is located in a completely closed screed, so there will be no way to get to it later (read also: “Starting heating - we start the system according to the rules“).
It will be much easier to provide the heating circuit with the necessary pressure if the dwelling has access to the central water supply. In this situation, to pressure test the heating system, it is enough to fill it with water through a jumper that separates the water supply, while carefully monitoring the increase in pressure on the pressure gauge. After completing such an event, unnecessary water can be removed using any of the valves or through an air vent.
Many are wondering whether special water treatment for the heating system should be carried out or whether it can be limited to water from the nearest reservoir. At the same time, some argue that distilled water in the heating system will have a beneficial effect on the life of the equipment and will prevent it from failing ahead of time. But it is much more important to figure out how to prepare water for heating if a special non-freezing liquid like ethylene glycol is added to it and how to subsequently fill the heating circuit with such a coolant.
For these purposes, it is customary to use a special pump that serves to fill the system with water, and it can be controlled both automatically and manually. The connection of this pump is carried out using a valve, and after providing the necessary pressure, the valve is closed.
There are situations when such equipment is not at hand. As an option, it is allowed to connect a standard garden hose to the discharge valve, the second end of which should be raised to a height of 15 meters and filled with water using a funnel. Similar way will be especially relevant if there are tall trees near the building to be equipped.
Another option for filling the heating system is to use an expansion tank, which performs the function of containing excess coolant caused by its expansion during the heating process.
Such a tank has the form of a reservoir, which is divided in half by a special elastic rubber membrane. One part of the container is for water, and the other for air. The design of any expansion tank also includes a nipple, with which it becomes possible to set the desired pressure inside the unit by removing excess air. If the pressure is insufficient, then this parameter can be compensated by pumping air into the system using a usually bicycle pump.
The whole process is not particularly difficult:
- to begin with, air is eliminated from the expansion tank, for which you need to unscrew the nipple. Ready tanks go on sale with a slightly overpressure, which is equal to 1.5 atmospheres;
- then the heating circuit is filled with water. In this case, the expansion tank must be mounted so that it is threaded upwards. It is important to remember that it is absolutely not worth filling the tank with water completely. It would be more correct if the total volume of air in this apparatus is approximately one tenth of the total volume of water, otherwise the tank will not be able to cope with its main function and will not be able to accommodate excess heated coolant;
- after that, air is pumped into the system through the nipple, which, as mentioned above, can be done using a conventional bicycle pump. The pressure must be controlled with a manometer.
All these actions will allow you to accurately fill the heating system with water and ensure stable and high-quality functioning of the entire circuit. If necessary, you can always seek help from specialists who always have various photos of the devices necessary for such work that can help in connection.
Filling the heating system with water in the video:
How to pour water into an open and closed heating system?
After installing a new heating system, specialists pour water into it for the first time. They check the tightness of the system, the correct connection and operation of the boiler equipment. You can peep and learn how to pour water into the heating system, because in the future it may be necessary to perform the procedure yourself.
During the operation of any heating system, it is periodically required to be filled with a coolant. It is troublesome, and expensive every time to call specialists. Therefore, you will have to cope with such work on your own. Consider how to pour water into the heating system so as to meet all the conditions for proper functioning.
open systems
In such heating systems, water circulates naturally (not under pressure). An expansion tank is installed at their upper point, in which the coolant comes into contact with air. This container receives excess water, which expands when heated. This is where the air from the system comes down. It is in the tank that water is poured, although this can also be done through the lower part of the system, if it has the appropriate connector.
Let us describe in more detail how to properly fill water into the heating system if it is open. Remove the lid from the tank and pour in water using buckets or a hose. The water level in the tank is determined by the indicator.
A drain pipe extends from the top of the tank, connected to sewer system through which excess fluid is drained.
It is necessary to pour water into the system gradually, in portions, giving time for air bubbles to escape. When it stops draining into pipes, the system can be considered full. Now you need to release the air remaining in the radiators by opening Mayevsky's taps. A basin is placed under them and the taps are unscrewed. As soon as water flows into the container, the taps are twisted. After descending from the air radiators, you will have to add water to the tank. When the work is completed, you can turn on the boiler. Now it is clear how to fill the heating system, which is open, with water.
Closed systems
These are systems in which the liquid does not come into contact with air outside the system. They have a pump for forced circulation of water and an expansion tank with a membrane. Learn more about the heating system with pump circulation we already wrote here. The tank is a sealed container, which is divided into two parts by a rubber membrane inside. In its lower part there is a coolant, and in its upper part there is air under pressure of one and a half atmospheres. It presses on the membrane, as a result of which a constant pressure of 1.5 atm is established in the system.
We will tell you how to fill a closed heating system without errors. Better to have two people do the job. One will fill in water, and the second will monitor the descent of air from the pipes. But if this is not possible, you can simply turn on the water under a little pressure. The pipes in this system have a slight upward slope from the boiler to the top point. At this point, a valve is installed through which air is vented.
Before filling a closed heating system with water, the valve should be opened and a basin placed under it.
Further, the pipes should have a slight slope down to the bottom point. A faucet is installed at this point to remove water from the system. There is also a pipe for pumping water into it (usually located just below the boiler). It is equipped with a check valve that allows water to flow in, but prevents it from flowing out. If it is connected to the branch pipe water pipe with a faucet, you just need to open it. If there is no such connection, another way to fill the heating system is suitable: using a flexible hose. It must be connected to the plumbing system (for example, to a regular faucet in the kitchen) and to the pipe. The pressure in the water supply system should be slightly higher than the pressure of the heating system.
When the pipes and radiators are filled with coolant, and water begins to drain from the valve in the upper part of the system, it should be closed. Then you need to bleed the air from the batteries (with Mayevsky cranes). The water is shut off when, after complete deflation of air, its pressure on the pressure gauge built into the boiler reaches one and a half atmospheres (or more if the boiler's passport provides for a higher pressure in the system).
AT double-circuit boilers there is a heating system water make-up module available. It contains a tap for pumping water. Therefore, there will be no problems with how to fill the heating system of a double-circuit boiler, because this is easy to do. It is enough to open the tap (at the bottom of the boiler). Through it, the heating system of the house will be filled with water. Although modern boilers and are equipped with automatic air vent systems, they do not eliminate all air from the system. Therefore, the installation of the valve at its highest point is mandatory.
At startup gas boiler perform another important procedure. Remove the front cover from the boiler, find a cylindrical booster circulation pump, which has a removable cover in the middle. Turn on the boiler, install on it operating temperature. The pump starts gurgling due to the presence of air. It needs to be eliminated. To do this, slightly (not completely) unscrew the lid with a screwdriver until water starts to drip from the inside. As soon as this happens, twist it back. Wait 2-3 minutes and repeat the procedure a couple more times. When the device becomes quiet, the electric ignition will turn on. The boiler will start to supply heat in operating mode. Once again they look at the pressure in the system, and if necessary, briefly open the make-up valve.
This completes the filling of the closed heating system with water, and it remains to make its additional debugging. It lies in the fact that with the help of control valves on the radiator pipes, you can slightly tighten the heat supply to the batteries, which are located near the boiler, and increase its supply to distant radiators. Now there will be no hitch with how to properly fill the closed heating system with water, and you can do this work yourself quickly and efficiently.
Instead of water
The question arises: what should be poured into the heating system of a private house instead of water in order to improve the performance properties of the coolant? For these purposes, antifreeze is often used. It does not freeze even at temperatures below zero degrees. Thanks to this property, pipes and radiators will not burst if the room is very cold. If there is a desire to use antifreeze, pipes of small diameter and panel radiators should be installed to reduce the required amount of this coolant (it is much more expensive than water).
In addition, filling the heating system with this liquid is troublesome. It cannot be pumped from the water supply. And when using a hose, some antifreeze will spill. In addition, if the system is closed, it is impossible to fill the coolant through the tank.
The problem is solved like this:
System make-up
In order for a closed heating system to work efficiently, it must maintain a constant operating pressure. And it depends on the volume of liquid circulating in pipes and radiators. Its leaks are inevitable, no matter how tight the nodes and their junctions are. Therefore, a constant replenishment of the heating system of a private house with a coolant is required. It is produced through make-up valves mounted in a place with a minimum fluid pressure (usually in front of the pump).
These devices come with mechanical and automatic supply of coolant. If the house is small, has a low-power heating system, a mechanical valve is enough. In this case, pressure drops are extinguished using the rubber membrane of the tank. But in order to prevent an accident, the consumer will have to constantly monitor the pressure in the system. There is no such need after installing an automatic valve (if it comes with the boiler, you do not need to buy another one) with a pressure gauge. With this device, there will be no question of how to properly fill the heating system with water without disturbing the coolant pressure balance.
So that filling the heating system with water does not cause constant trouble, does not take much time, it is necessary to install modern equipment (two-pipe closed system). More details about two-pipe system heating can be found here. It is necessary to approach the pouring process responsibly, and then the house will be warm and comfortable for many years.
Heating, ventilation and air conditioning according to SNiP - what you need to know? Coolant for the heating system - water or antifreeze? When is heating repair necessary and how difficult is it? Antifreeze for the heating system: its tasks and advantages
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How to fill a closed-type heating system with any type of heat carrier
An important question that arises after the installation of heating devices is how to fill the closed heating system and put it into operation. The process is simple, although its features cause typical difficulties for ordinary users. These include the choice of injection point and coolant pressure.
Open and closed heating systems: filling principle
An open system is equipped with an expansion tank at its highest point. The surface of the heat-transfer fluid in it is in direct contact with atmospheric air. The closed system is equipped with a diaphragm expansion tank hermetically isolated from the atmosphere.
Heating systems of any type can be filled as follows:
- tap water supplied to the lowest point of the system - through the make-up valve;
- water (distilled) or antifreeze, supplying liquid from a container (well, reservoir):
- by pouring manually and / or by means of a pump to the upper point (a fitting for an air vent or through an open expansion tank);
- by pumping through the lowest point - make-up inlet.
Many homeowners know the simplest (and worst!) way to fill open systems is via an expansion tank. Water / antifreeze is poured in intermittently to release air. It is not recommended to repeat this method in closed systems, using the nozzles of the upper air vents. The air that initially fills the system passes upward through the layer of water being poured, dissolving in it. Air locks that prevent the flow of water through pipes and radiators will be guaranteed to you.
Then how to fill a closed heating system? The recommended way to fill any heating system is to supply liquid under pressure (from a water pipe or tank using a pump) through the bottom make-up valve.
Location of the heating system feed unit.
When filling with coolant
There are only two situations that require the implementation of this technological operation:
- putting heating into operation (at the beginning of the heating season);
- restart after repair work.
Usually, the heat carrier water is drained in late spring for two reasons:
- Water is inevitably contaminated with corrosion products (inside radiators, metal-plastic and polypropylene pipes are not subject to it). Leaving the old water for the new season, you risk breaking the circulation pump with solid contaminants.
- Unlaunched flooded systems of country houses can “thaw out” during a sudden cold snap - such cases are not uncommon.
In this sense, the coolant-antifreeze is preferable. The high-quality composition has high anti-corrosion properties, which increase the “drainage” interval up to 5-6 years. There are known cases of uninterrupted operation of heating on the same volume of antifreeze for 15-17 years. Low-quality antifreeze is recommended to be drained after 2-3 years.
Pumping antifreeze into the heating system.
Filling technology: where to supply the coolant
The necessary means are a container and a pump that creates the required pressure of the heat transfer fluid. Submersible type "Gnome" or "Baby" are quite suitable (popular with gardeners who use them to irrigate areas located above the levels of water bodies). There is evidence of successful filling of closed systems with hand pumps ranging from those used for spraying horticultural crops with protective solutions to specialized hand pumps used for drumming motor fuels or liquid chemicals. Any heating scheme can be successfully filled by controlling the pressure on the manometer.
Filling the system with antifreeze by means of a submersible vibration pump.
The first operation is to select the fluid entry point. If the pressure created by the pump raises the liquid to the top of the system, it should be connected at the lowest point of the boiler room - the coolant feed pipe, embedded in front of the boiler into the "return". In addition to the make-up inlet, a structurally separate drain outlet is required (two different system nodes). The first is equipped with a valve (ball valve) and a check valve, the second - only with a valve (ball valve). If the lowest point of the system is the boiler outlet, then the system can be drained/filled with water through it. Since a non-return valve is not installed behind the boiler drain (generally behind the drain), any shutdown of the pump will result in the outflow of the pumped liquid - you need to quickly turn off the tap in front of the fitting.
The design of a typical drain / make-up unit.
We fill the system from below
So, back to pumping fluid into the system. We use a container of a suitable volume (a plastic barrel with a volume of 200 liters is well suited). We lower a pump into it, which creates the pressure required for pumping liquid no higher than 1.5 atm (typical value in the range of 1-1.2 atm). Such pressure requires the creation of a pressure head of 15 m by the pump (for the submersible "Baby" it reaches 40 m).
After filling the barrel with water, we start the pump, monitoring the liquid level, which should be located above its inlet to prevent "airing". The level drops - add water. Antifreeze should be pumped from a container of a smaller volume (bucket) so as not to immerse the body of the submersible pump in the liquid (and then not wash it) - it is enough to immerse the inlet pipe. You will have to add antifreeze often, periodically turning off the pump.
The filling of the system is carried out with open Mayevsky taps on installed heating radiators with substituted containers for collecting water. When the liquid comes out of all the air vents, close the valves, continuing the pumping process.
We control the pressure on the pressure gauge (the boiler device is suitable). When its value exceeds the hydrostatic one, equal to the pressure in the liquid column with a height from the lower to the upper point of the system (a height of 5 m gives a static pressure of 0.5 atm), we continue to fill the system, monitoring the pressure gauge when the pressure reaches the required value.
Pumping antifreeze pump "Kid".
After filling the system, turn off the pump, open the air valves (the pressure will inevitably drop), and then pump up the water. We repeat the process several times, displacing air bubbles.
We complete the filling by inspecting the system for leaks. After the pump is switched off, the hose connected to the outlet is under pressure. If antifreeze was pumped in, first disconnect the hose from the pump inlet and drain the liquid into a container, trying not to pour over the mechanism body.
How to properly fill a closed-type heating system from above
If there is no electric pump, then filling a system with a height difference of the lower and upper points from 10 m using a manual pump is a rather tedious procedure. In this case, the closed system can be filled through the top point (for example, the fitting for connecting an automatic air vent) by gravity with the drain cock open at the bottom point until water starts to flow out of it. The drain valve is closed, and we have at the lowest point of the system a static pressure equal to the pressure in the liquid column to the top point (at 10 m, the pressure will be 1 atm).
Now you need to increase the pressure to the calculated level no higher than 1.5 atm. We connect an ordinary watering hose about 1.5 meters long to any fitting of the system through a ball valve. We come up with an easily removable adapter for it to the hose of a conventional automobile pump with a pressure gauge. We fill the vertically straightened hose with water, connect the pump through the adapter and pump water from the hose into the system with air. Close the ball valve. 3-5 repetitions of the process are enough to increase the initial static pressure at any point in the system by 0.5 atm. Avoid pumping air into it.
Pumping antifreeze with a hand pump.
Selection of pressure values in the system and expansion tank
The higher the operating pressure of the coolant, the less likely it is for air to enter the system. It must be remembered that the operating pressure is limited to the maximum permissible value for the heating boiler. If, when filling the system, a static pressure of 1.5 atm (15 m of water column) was reached, then the circulation pump with a head of 6 m of water. Art. will create a pressure of 15 + 6 = 21 m of water column at the entrance to the boiler.
Some types of boilers have an operating pressure of about 2 atm = 20 m of water column. Be careful not to overload the boiler heat exchanger with unacceptably high coolant pressure!
The diaphragm expansion vessel is supplied with a factory set pressure of inert gas (nitrogen) in the gas cavity. Its common value is 1.5 atm (or bar, which is almost the same). This level can be raised by pumping air into the gas cavity with a hand pump.
Initially, the internal volume of the tank is completely occupied by nitrogen, the membrane is pressed by gas to the body. That is why it is customary to fill closed systems to a pressure level not higher than 1.5 atm (maximum 1.6 atm). Then, by installing the expansion tank on the "return" in front of the circulation pump, we will not get a change in its internal volume - the membrane will remain motionless. Heating the coolant will lead to an increase in its pressure, the membrane will move away from the tank body and compress the nitrogen. The gas pressure will increase, balancing the coolant pressure at a new static level.
Expansion tank pressure levels.
Filling the system to a pressure of 2 atm will allow the cold coolant to immediately compress the membrane, which will also compress nitrogen to a pressure of 2 atm. Heating water from 0 °C to 100 °C increases its volume by 4.33%. The additional volume of liquid must flow into the expansion tank. A large volume of coolant in the system gives a large increment during heating. Too much initial pressure of the cold coolant will immediately use up the capacity of the expansion tank, it will not be enough to receive excess heated water (antifreeze). Therefore, it is important to fill the system to a correctly defined coolant pressure level. When filling the system with antifreeze, you need to remember about its higher coefficient of thermal expansion than that of water, which requires the installation of a larger expansion tank.
Conclusion
Filling closed heating systems is not just a standard final operation before commissioning. Performing this step correctly or incorrectly can seriously affect the performance of the system, in the worst case, even disable it. Compliance with filling technology is the key to obtaining stable heating.
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What and how to fill the heating system in a private house: the choice of coolant, solutions for open and closed systems
What liquids can be used as a heat carrier? How to perform the first start-up of heating after its installation is completed? What should be the working pressure of the cottage heating system? Today we have to answer these and some other questions.
Our task is to fill the empty water heating circuit.
The choice of coolant
First, a few words about what liquids can be used to fill the heating system. Here are the key properties of popular coolants.
- Price. minimum (when pumping from a water supply system with a water meter installed at the entrance to the house - from 20 rubles per cubic meter);
- Heat capacity. high (4183 J/(kg deg) at +20°C);
- Viscosity. low (which means a small load on the circulation pump);
- Corrosivity. medium (steel in contact with water rusts only in the presence of oxygen);
- Toxicity. missing;
- . 0.03%/deg.
For heating, it is better to use distilled water, which does not conduct electricity and has minimal corrosive activity.
Antifreeze was developed several decades ago as a winter filler for water cooling systems for automotive engines. Nowadays, it is often used as a winter coolant. The numerical designation in the marking of antifreeze (30, 40 or 65) means its freezing temperature.
- Price. from 40 rubles per kilogram for wholesale deliveries and from 60 for retail;
- Heat capacity. medium (3520 J/(kg deg));
- Viscosity. high (the load on the pump increases due to the increase hydraulic resistance systems);
- Corrosivity. low due to anti-corrosion additives;
- Toxicity. high (the composition of the original antifreeze includes poisonous ethylene glycol);
- Heating expansion coefficient. 0.05%/deg. The larger the expansion coefficient, the larger the expansion tank must be in a closed heating system. It is he who compensates for the expansion of the coolant with increasing temperature.
Antifreeze - antifreeze for water cooling systems of motors.
Due to zero corrosion activity, antifreeze creates leaks at the slightest violation of the tightness of the heating circuit. Water and other coolants quickly clog small leaks with rust and crystallizing mineral salts.
propylene glycol
Based on propylene glycol, non-freezing heat transfer fluids are produced, designed specifically for heating systems.
Propylene glycol-based coolant package.
Propylene glycol is used in the form of an aqueous solution. Mixing with water increases its heat capacity to the level of antifreeze (3500-4000 J/(kg·deg) depending on the proportion of the mixture).
- Viscosity. high;
- Corrosivity. low due to additives;
- Toxicity. zero (canisters with coolant are marked in green and the designation "Eco");
Polypropylene glycol mixed with glycerin is used as a cosmetic preparation.
- Heating expansion coefficient. about 0.05%/deg.
A concentrated solution of common salt, calcium chloride and other salts can also be used as a coolant: its freezing point is inversely proportional to the salt concentration. This is a typical budget solution, which is limited to use only in open systems With natural circulation.
- Price. from 5 rubles per 1 kg of table salt;
- Heat capacity. low (at 30% concentration - 2700 J/(kg deg);
- Viscosity. low;
- Corrosivity. extremely high. Salt literally corrodes steel pipes;
This is how contact with sea water- brine with a low concentration of salts.
At high brine concentrations and slow movement of the coolant in the system, excess salts will gradually be deposited on the pipe walls, reducing their cross section. In a forced circulation circuit, the brine has a detrimental effect on the pump. the shaft and the impeller are overgrown with crystals, which leads to a drop in performance.
The instructions for choosing a coolant are pretty obvious:
- If you have the opportunity to maintain a positive temperature in the house throughout the heating season, it is best to fill the heating circuit with water. Better - distilled, but you can use drinking or even well;
- If the cottage is periodically left without heating, your choice is non-freezing coolants based on propylene glycol.
Freezing point of antifreeze depending on the concentration of the solution.
Time to dump and time to fill
When do you have to fill the heating circuit?
In just three cases:
- On first start ;
- After renovation shut-off and control valves, boiler, bottling, replacement of heating devices, etc.;
- After reset heating system during a long winter downtime. It is practiced if the circuit is filled with water and the house remains without heating for a long time.
For complete drainage of the circuit, the vents must be on all brackets below the filling level. When resetting, you need to open at least one vent at the top of the circuit so that it sucks in air.
In the photo - a discharge brought to the street, located at the lowest point of the heating filling of my house.
open system
Autonomous heating can work according to two fundamentally different schemes:
open system. works with a pressure equal to the height of the water column between the lower and upper points of the circuit. It communicates with the atmosphere through an open expansion tank.
closed system. works with excess pressure of 1.5-2.5 atmospheres. It is completed with a membrane expansion tank that compensates for the increase in the volume of the coolant when it is heated.
The peculiarity of the installation of an open heating system is that its fillings (supply and return) are laid with a constant slope from the open expansion tank at the top of the circuit.
This pipe layout has two practical consequences:
- Pour water into the systemcan be directly through the expansion tank(buckets or through a water supply tap brought to the attic);
The device of an open tank allows you to fill the heating circuit with buckets or any other container.
- All the air will be expelled there.. remaining in the contour at the time of its filling.
How to run such a system with your own hands? Easier than simple: fill the circuit and melt the cauldron. If the circuit is designed to work with natural circulation, the circulation will start immediately after the boiler heat exchanger has warmed up. In a system with a pump, you must additionally turn on its power.
closed system
How to fill a closed type heating system with water or antifreeze?
When installing a heating system, you have to take into account many nuances that only a professional engineer can know about. Indeed, after careful calculations, work on the collection of the entire system, the turn comes to filling the heating system with coolant.
A specialist can judge which of the substances can be used in, and which is more profitable for you. It is believed that today only 2 coolant options are used - water and antifreeze. Let's try to figure out how best to fill the pipeline.
Benefits of water and antifreeze
There is such a thing as the norms for the temperature of the coolant in the heating system. Water is one of the cheapest substances. In addition, it is affordable and meets the requirements of the heating system. Unfortunately, there is a huge drawback - when atmospheric temperatures decrease, it freezes. As a result, the piping and radiators fail and burst occurs.
If you carefully look at how the heating system is filled with coolant in the video, you will understand that in most cases it is used. The main advantage of this substance can be called the following - in critical situations and if necessary, you can safely turn off the heating in the cottage. Even in severe frosts, antifreeze does not freeze.
Water is non-toxic. Therefore, it is poured into a pipeline made of any materials. It can be brass or aluminum, known to all cast iron and metal-plastic, stainless steel or steel.
Calculation of the amount of coolant
We recommend contacting an engineer for calculation and piping layout. In this case, you will not have to later regret the lost time and frequent repairs systems. Believe me, do not trust online programs. After all, only a competent specialist will be able to select the equipment and calculate the coolant in the heating system.
Remember, in a closed system, a diaphragm expansion tank should be used. A pressure gauge is mounted to it, designed for 4 ... 6 bar and. Faucets are also installed for air release and make-up.
First of all, in the calculations, the speed of the coolant in the heating system is determined. However, before that, you should find out what heat losses at home exist. This type of calculation is complex. After all, you have to take into account several parameters at the same time.
Of course, no one forbids doing the calculation yourself according to the formula:
G \u003d S * 1 / Po * (Tv- Tn) to
G is the heat loss of the building (kcal/h);
Po - reactants to the heat transfer process;
Indicators Tv and Tn are the atmospheric temperature both inside and outside the house;
Reducing factor - k.
In a similar way, we calculate the volume of coolant in the heating system. There is no miscalculation here. Therefore, we remind you - contact the experts. After all, compliance with the standards for the temperature of the coolant in the heating system and other parameters are incredibly important. Note that the main indicators of the standards are indicated in SNiP 41-01-2003.
Filling the finished heating system
It is believed that the finished heating system in the house can be independently launched. Is it true? In the event that we are talking about the natural circulation of water (antifreeze), then such an action is allowed. After all, it is not difficult to fill the mounted heating system with coolant (watch the video). To do this, pour antifreeze into the expansion tank. Next, check and open the Mayevsky taps to release air.
Remember, you also need to monitor the pressure of the coolant in the heating system and periodically add it to the expansion tank. Have you missed the moment and the equipment is empty? This means that you will have to repeat all the activities again, by air venting.
In cases where the calculation of the coolant for a heating system with forced circulation is carried out, it is necessary to call a specialist. Or learn how to pour water under pressure.
In any case, before starting work, it is required to check the condition of the expansion tank. After that, we start the pump connected to the tank and antifreeze. Remember, filling the heating system with a coolant requires skills and certain knowledge. Therefore, be sure to monitor the condition of the pipeline and equipment.
As with natural circulation, the pressure of the coolant in the heating system is constantly monitored. As soon as the indicator reaches 2 atmospheres, the expansion tank begins to fill. At this point, you have to turn off the pump for injection and turn on the circulation pump.
As the air is expelled from the system, you will notice the pressure drop. This means that the volume of coolant in the heating system should be increased. Therefore, we turn on the water injection and again wait for the tank to fill up. This operation should be repeated until the optimal pressure in the system is normalized.
Rules for replacing water with antifreeze
What to do if water was poured into the system in the autumn, and you decide to switch to winter mode and you need to replace the coolants. In such cases, professionals immediately report that rubber gaskets will begin to leak, threaded connections. Therefore, stock up on sealant for radiators in advance.
Note that the speed of the coolant in the heating system plays a big role. When replacing water with antifreeze, remember that it is impossible to completely remove the liquid. Therefore, we suggest that you fill in antifreeze concentrate.
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