The filter in the heating system is clogged. How to flush the heating system in a private house
It will not be a secret to anyone that over time the quality of heat supply systems deteriorates noticeably. Many people now live in apartment buildings, which were built a very long time ago, at least twenty years ago. So, they know firsthand about these problems. These include poor circulation, poor heating, and contaminated water from drinking taps. What to do in such situations? Chemical cleaning of heating systems or conventional hydropneumatic flushing can help you solve these problems.
In this article, we will consider this problem in detail, consider ways to solve it, as well as photos and videos of these processes.
The essence of the problem
Scale elements collect on the surfaces of radiators, pipes and other components of heating systems, their appearance leads to problems such as:
- Accelerated mechanical wear of pipelines;
- The efficiency of the heating itself decreases.
Important. Experts have calculated that a scale thickness of just one millimeter worsens heat transfer by fifteen percent, which significantly reduces the quality and efficiency of the system.
This effect is explained by the fact that such deposits reduce thermal resistance, as a result, heat transfer and pipeline capacity deteriorate.
Work technology
The cleaning of the heating system itself is a complex of works, which consists of:
- primary diagnosis. Thanks to these works, the nature of the scale and the exact composition are determined;
- Selection of the necessary equipment and drawing up a technological map;
- Anti-corrosion treatment. It is carried out after cleaning and is aimed at preventing scale and deposits.
As for the work process itself, the following types are distinguished:
- Pneumohydropulse;
- hydrodynamic;
- Chemical.
Chemical
There is an opinion among experts that this type of flushing is the most in demand and popular, because it quickly and efficiently removes deposits. In most cases, aqueous solutions of mineral and organic acids, composite solutions, alkalis and solvents are used.
You need to be extremely careful when doing the work yourself, because the above solutions are toxic.
Important. It is not allowed to use alkaline and acid solutions in heating systems with aluminum radiators, as this will lead to a violation of their tightness.
For the work involved specialized:
- hoses;
- pumps;
- Capacities;
- Liquid and powder cleaners.
Such activities are carried out over several days during preparation for the heating season. These works allow to restore capacity and avoid major repairs.
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Of particular importance in the installation of heat supply in the house is such an element as a filter for the heating system. The scope of this equipment is those heating systems where the main heat carrier is hot water. Thanks to such a device, the entire heating circuit will function reliably and safely, since numerous harmful substances, such as debris particles and various impurities in the coolant, can cause significant harm to the entire system.
Thus, a mud filter for heating retains all these substances, preventing them from entering the most important elements heating circuit– heating boiler and circulation pump. Damage to them can cause the entire system to fail, and repairs are usually quite expensive. Therefore, it is very important that the sump for the heating system was installed correctly, and for this, first of all, you should study all its technical and performance characteristics, which will be discussed below.
Device and types of mud filter
As mentioned above, filters for heating system are designed to protect it from the ingress of hazardous substances, cleaning the coolant circulating in the circuit.Mud filters for heating may differ in the type of their device, therefore, based on the design of these mechanisms, it is customary to distinguish the following samples:
- carbon type filters;
- mud collectors operating on a mechanical basis;
- electronic systems.
Speaking about the types of pollution of the heating system, one should distinguish between certain elements that pose a danger to its operation.
Among them it is worth noting the following:
- small elements of sand;
- remnants of rust deposits;
- lime particles;
- gaseous impurities;
- ordinary dust mixed with various substances, etc.
Rules for installing a filter for a heating system
The device of the heating system sump must take into account some features that are extremely important to consider in the process of work. It is quite possible to install this equipment with your own hands, having additionally studied the photos of such products and studied the video on their installation, therefore, to perform installation work, you will not need any special construction skills.It is very important to remember one point: the installation of the filter should only be done before circulation pump, and not behind it, otherwise the installation of the sump will not bring any benefit, and the system will still be contaminated.
Filters can also differ in the size of the circle. So, the most common cross-section parameters are from 15 to 100 mm. Which option to apply in a particular case depends, first of all, on what diameter the heating pipe has.
The sump filter for heating should be mounted exclusively vertically, and brackets specially designed for this purpose serve as fasteners. Do not forget also about the installation of shut-off valves, with which you can save yourself from the need to periodically remove water from the system in case of contamination.
Installing a sump for the heating system
In order to mount a magnetic filter for heating or any other type of filter, you should read the following recommendations that can simplify the entire work process:- Even before the installation begins, it is necessary to carefully prepare the pipes of the system, cleaning them from rust and other harmful particles.
- When deciding which design of the sump to use for a particular heating circuit, one must be guided solely by its operational characteristics, in particular, the conditions under which the equipment will be used - operating pressure, temperature indicators, etc.
- It is better to choose the place for mounting the sump from where access to the device will be as convenient as possible, while taking into account that the filter should be mounted in the area in front of the circulation pump.
- One of the prerequisites for installation is that the cross section of the filter opening must be identical to the cross section of the pipe. This measure will guarantee the strength of the connection and will not allow the mechanism to subsequently go to the side.
Dirt filter cleaning standards
The procedure for removing dirt accumulated inside the filter does not pose any difficulty:- the coolant circulating in the opposite direction will allow you to wash the precipitation from the heating system;
- the mesh included in the design of the filter can be easily removed, cleaned and then put back in place.
Benefits of using a heating filter
Among the advantages that the installation of cleaning elements for heating carries, it is worth highlighting the following:- the filter provides high-quality protection against any kind of pollution;
- draining the water in the system and filling the circuit with new coolant does not need to be done often;
- installation of a sump unequivocally allows you to save financial costs;
- a system equipped with such a filter will work for a long time and reliably.
Any heating system, whether central or completely autonomous, is a rather complex “organism” that includes many elements, each of which performs a particular purpose. And in this list of components there must be a place for filtering and cleaning devices for the coolant. This function is taken over by mud collectors.
When designing central heating systems, such filters are planned without fail, both in boiler houses or at thermal power plants, and on collectors and elevator units directly in buildings connected to heating networks. But in individual construction, no, no, and there are situations when inexperienced house owners do not fully understand how important mud collectors are for heating systems, and do not include them in an independently developed scheme. And it’s completely in vain - these very inexpensive, easy to install and maintain devices can significantly improve the operation of the entire system, significantly extend the trouble-free period of its operation, save the owners from the rather laborious and dirty work of periodic cleaning of both pipes and radiators, and significantly reduce operating costs for heating housing.
The carrier of thermal energy from the boiler or central to the radiators is a liquid heat carrier. Most often, this role is played by water, pure or with any chemical additives. In certain conditions, for example, in private houses where the owners do not live all year round, special liquids are often used that are resistant to negative temperatures - antifreezes, but even in them water occupies a significant part of the total volume.
Water is always a very active oxidizing agent, causing corrosion of metal parts of thermal routes, house wiring, radiators, shut-off and control valves. The formed particles of rust eventually exfoliate from the walls and are picked up by the flow. However, if a pipe, a tap, a radiator, a welded or threaded joint, a tee, or certain conditions(narrowing of the passage, unevenness, influx from the weld, change in the direction of flow, etc.), then this place most likely becomes vulnerable to the formation of plugs - small scale particles settle, accumulate, layer, narrowing, and sometimes completely blocking coolant passage.
Many people are probably familiar with the situation when heating radiators heat up unevenly, not over their entire area. It also happens that in the battery several sections remain cold at all - the coolant clearly does not circulate through them.
Radiator sections clogged with dirt - the reason for their uneven heating
If the check shows that there is no air in the radiator, then such a picture can only be caused by the accumulation of dirt.
Sometimes when you open the battery, you can see a similar "sad" picture.
Such radiators will not be able to provide the required heat transfer, and you will have to resort to emergency measures - remove them and carry out a thorough flushing. And this, believe me, is a very complex and time-consuming process.
How is radiator flushing carried out?
There are several technologies for cleaning pipes and radiators from accumulations of dirt and scale deposits. Details on how it is performed, and the idea and its verification by the method are described in a special publication of our portal.
Not only radiators are overgrown with dirt - it also clogs pipe channels, taps, air valves, branch pipes of expansion tanks, etc. As a result, the operation of the heating system begins to completely go out of balance.
Clogged pipes are an additional, completely unnecessary load on the pump and boiler, unnecessary energy costs
So, narrowed passages do not provide the necessary volume of coolant circulation, and in order to achieve the desired temperature, it is necessary to increase the current power of the boiler. Moreover, the layer of plaque on the walls of pipes and radiators becomes a "thermal insulation pad", that is, heat transfer is sharply reduced. And this is another reason for the increase in heating costs.
This "migrating" dirt and solid particles can lead to additional stress on the circulation pump, damage to its turbine and complete failure. Well, the saddest thing will be if blockages form in the boiler heat exchanger - this in most cases leads to burnout of the heat exchanger, often entailing the replacement of all expensive equipment as a whole.
An increased concentration of solid inclusions can seriously change the electrolytic characteristics of the coolant, which is highly undesirable for heating systems powered by an electrode (ion) boiler.
Electrode boilers require special properties of the coolant
The principle of operation of electrode boilers is fundamentally different from other heaters. More about the device and characteristics - in a special publication of our portal.
Unfortunately, it is not possible to completely eliminate the formation of solid suspensions in the circuits and heat exchange devices of the heating system. This means that it is necessary to organize a “collection point” in which debris and dirt will be retained, filtered out of the liquid, and then regularly removed, moreover, by very affordable methods that do not require the dismantling of any components of the heating system. This is precisely the main function of mud filters.
Equipping the system with such filtering devices immediately provides a number of advantages:
- The most complex and expensive components of the system - the pump and the boiler, receive reliable protection from pollution, overgrowing of channels and damage. Consequently, their operational resource increases significantly.
- The need for frequent draining of the coolant to replace it with a new, clean one disappears - it will be maintained in a satisfactory condition for use anyway. Considering that some coolants cost a lot, this is another article of significant savings.
- The use of filters and high-quality, properly selected coolant will free the owners for a long time from the procedure for cleaning and flushing all heating systems.
Much depends on the quality of the coolant
Of course, the maximum efficiency and safety of operation of the heating system can only be achieved using a high-quality coolant. A special publication of our portal is completely devoted to varieties and characteristics.
- Heating radiators clean from dirt and solid deposits provide maximum heat transfer, and free channels of pipes, fittings, connecting assemblies and control valves - minimum hydraulic resistance coolant. Both allow the boiler and pump to work optimally with a minimum consumption of the respective energy carriers. Moreover, it has been calculated that, in general, the effect of saving the operation of a “clean” system, compared to one with mud deposits, can even reach 40%.
In a word, there is something to think about - the installation of a relatively inexpensive and easy-to-use device immediately gives the owners a lot of preferences.
The main types of mud filters and their device
General classification of mechanical filters
In filters for coarse mechanical purification of water from solid impurities (which deserved the name of mud collectors), three basic principles for separating suspensions are used:
- Settling filters use gravitational forces - due to a sharp increase in volume and, accordingly, a drop in flow velocity, solid particles settle to the bottom under the action of gravity. Often this is supplemented by a sharp change in the direction of movement - then turbulent and centrifugal forces are also included in the "work", carrying more inert heavy particles to the periphery of the flow, where they settle, thereby releasing water.
A typical device for such a sump is shown in the diagram below:
Usually these are vertically arranged cylindrical body (pos. 1), into which two branch pipes with flanged connections are welded: inlet (pos. 2) and outlet (pos. 3). From the bottom, the body is closed with a flange plug (pos. 4), the top is tightly welded. The bottom plug usually has a branch pipe (pos. 5) for mounting a valve to it for maintenance work - draining the sludge and washing the filter. There is also a branch pipe on top (pos. 6) - a valve is installed here to release air when the system is filled with coolant.
In the cavity of the central cylinder, there may be one or more jumpers (pos. 7) that sharply change the direction of the flow of water passing through the filter (shown by blue arrows). Solid inclusions (pos. 8) settle down, where a layer of sludge is formed (pos. 9), which is regularly cleaned during preventive maintenance.
Such filters are usually installed on large pipelines, for example, on industrial enterprises. In a home heating system, their use is not very rational. However, the principle of gravitational water purification is successfully used in other filter models.
- Mesh filters - in them, the flow of water is passed through a mesh structure with cells of a certain size. All particles whose diameter exceeds the cell size remain in the filter.
- In magnetic filters, as the name implies, permanent magnets are installed, which attract small particles of metal and metal scale. It is recognized that the installation of a magnetic filter, in addition, dramatically reduces the likelihood of scale formation on the walls of pipes and in heat exchangers of heating devices.
As already mentioned, very often in modern mud filters used for heating systems, two, and sometimes all three principles of mechanical water purification are combined.
According to the type of installation in the system, sump filters can be in three different versions:
- Sleeve filters are often installed on pipes of small and medium diameter, characteristic of autonomous heating systems.
On both sides of such a product for connection to pipes, couplings with internal (there are models with external) threads are provided. On the filter housing, respectively, hexagons are provided for inserting an open-end, adjustable or gas wrench during installation or dismantling. Such filters are usually immediately "packed" into the system when it is assembled.
- It is extremely difficult to work with threaded connections on pipes of medium and large diameter (over 2 inches), therefore filters with a flange connection are most often installed in such areas.
Flange connection involves the installation of an o-ring, and then tightening with bolts. During the initial installation of such a filter, there are a few more worries, since it is required to weld counter flanges to the pipe in a strictly established position, observing the installation length of the product. But on the other hand, if it is necessary to remove the filter, it will be quite simple to do this without resorting to dismantling the entire wiring section.
- There are filters that are mounted “tightly” to the pipes - on both sides of such devices there are nozzles, along the edge of which a chamfer is made - for a weld.
Probably the only advantage of such filters is lower cost. But in the event of an accident or the need for replacement, you will have to cut a section of the pipe.
Non-removable, welded mud collectors include filters in a polypropylene housing - specially designed for small diameter pipes of similar design.
They are also welded immediately during the installation of piping, and to replace them, if necessary, you will have to cut out a whole section. Therefore, probably, they are not particularly popular - usually most craftsmen prefer to install metal couplings, and only then switch from them to polypropylene.
According to the method of maintenance, filters also have their own gradation:
- Self-flushing - in such mud collectors, a tap is provided in the lower part, when opened, the accumulated dirt (sludge) is washed out with a stream of water. At the same time, the filter mesh is cleaned.
For better flushing of the grid, often when installing the filter, a bypass with a valve is provided. This makes it possible to redirect the flow of water from the reverse side during maintenance - even solid inclusions that are tightly stuck in the cells are washed out very well and drained into the drain valve.
- Wash filters. They do not require dismantling the entire product - after disconnecting a section of the system from the coolant supply, it is enough to unscrew the plug or remove the flange plug, remove the filter element and clean and rinse it (if necessary or in models with cartridge inserts, replace it with a new one). Then the filter is assembled in the reverse order - and it is ready for use again.
- There is also a category of non-flushing mud filters. To service them, you have to completely dismantle the entire device from the system. Of course, this is very inconvenient, and such products are not in demand and are practically not installed in autonomous systems heating.
And, finally, mechanical filtration devices can be divided into two categories according to the degree of purification of the liquid passing through them:
- , which, in principle, are called "mud collectors", have grids capable of retaining solid inclusions larger than 300 microns (0.3 mm).
- Devices fine cleaning designed to filter out suspensions ranging in size from 5 to 300 microns. They are usually used in post-treatment systems for tap water for domestic and food needs. Such filters are not used in the heating system - such high cleaning is not required here, and the filter elements themselves will quickly become clogged and require replacement or flushing.
Now consider the most common types of mud filters that are installed in heating systems.
Brass mesh "oblique" filters
This is perhaps the most common category of mud filters used in local home heating systems. They have a clutch threaded connection in a fairly wide size range - from ½ to 2 inches, which is quite enough for installation on any autonomous heating pipeline.
The design of the filter is quite simple:
The device of a brass "oblique" mud filter
The cast brass body (pos. 1) is a monolithic pairing of two cylinders, straight and inclined (pos. 3). On both sides of the straight cylinder there are threaded sockets for mounting the filter (item 2). The “oblique” cylinder ends with a brass plug (pos. 4) with a turnkey hexagon. Between the plug and the body there is a sealing gasket, usually Teflon (pos. 5). In the most inclined part there is a filter element - a stainless steel mesh (pos. 6) with cells of a certain size.
The correct direction of flow of the filtered liquid must be indicated on the body with an arrow. The beveled part always faces forward in the direction of flow.
The tables below show the main operational and installation parameters of brass "oblique" filters:
The main performance characteristics of brass "oblique" filters:
Product parameters | Pipeline diameter | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
G½ | G¾ | G1 | G 1¼ | G 1½ | G2 | |
Nominal pressure in the system, bar | 20 | 20 | 20 | 16 | 16 | 16 |
Crimping pressure, bar | 30 | 30 | 30 | 24 | 24 | 24 |
Grid cell size, µm | 500 | 500 | 500 | 800 | 800 | 1000 |
Distance between grid cell centers, mm | 1,1 | 1,1 | 1,1 | 1,4 | 1,4 | 1,6 |
Grid cell density per 1 cm², pcs | 156 | 156 | 156 | 83 | 83 | 59 |
Maximum allowable coolant temperature, °C | +150 | |||||
Degree of transparency (“transparency”) of the filter, % | 39 | 39 | 39 | 53 | 53 | 59 |
Total filtration surface area with a clean mesh, cm² | 17,9 | 32,6 | 44,8 | 55,7 | 77,1 | 111,0 |
Average throughput of the device with a clean filter element, m³/h | 3,15 | 5,0 | 9,9 | 15,5 | 24,0 | 28,5 |
Nominal coolant flow with a clean filter, m³/h | 1,41 | 2,24 | 4,43 | 6,93 | 10,7 | 12,7 |
Average filter life | up to 30 years |
Mounting characteristics of filters:
Nominal passage, Du, mm | Pipe thread diameter | Building dimensions | Empty weight, kg | |
---|---|---|---|---|
height H, mm | length L, mm | |||
15 | G½ | 40.5 | 51 | 0.132 |
20 | G¾ | 47.5 | 63.5 | 0.213 |
25 | G1 | 53 | 68 | 0.285 |
32 | G 1¼ | 65 | 91.5 | 0.573 |
40 | G 1½ | 73 | 102.5 | 0.750 |
50 | G2 | 88 | 126 | 1.160 |
Installation of such filters is not difficult for those who are familiar with the basics of plumbing techniques. Usually, a shut-off valve is installed in front of the filter - it allows you to shut off the coolant supply for preventive maintenance to clean the device from accumulated dirt. But the main thing that is important to consider is the correct orientation of the filter in space:
Correct installation | Wrong installation | ||
---|---|---|---|
Correct installation on a horizontal site. The beveled cylinder is located at the bottom. | Quite often, unfortunate “masters” mount the filter with the stopper up - apparently, for the reasons that it is easier to get to it during maintenance. However, such placement leads to a very rapid overgrowth of dirt in the passage to the filter chamber, reducing bandwidth devices | ||
Correct vertical installation. The coolant flow is organized from top to bottom. | Such an arrangement in a vertical section with the coolant currents upwards does not allow the filtered sludge to concentrate in the cleaning chamber for preventive maintenance. The cleaning capabilities of the device are sharply reduced, and dirt can collect on the walls of pipes or on valves. |
The filter is usually mounted on the return pipe in front of the circulation pump or boiler, if the pump is structurally part of the boiler. Thus, all possible contaminants collected along the heating circuit are removed from the coolant that has described the complete circulation cycle.
Regular cleaning of the "oblique" filter is not particularly difficult. You just need to close the coolant supply valves on both sides (if a check valve is installed behind the filter in the direction of the liquid flow, then it can only be closed from the inlet side). Then a container is supplied from below to collect the flowing liquid and accumulated sludge. The cork is unscrewed with a wrench, the mesh is removed.
Mesh "oblique" sump, densely clogged with sludge
The mesh should be cleaned with a polymer brush and then rinsed thoroughly. strong pressure water. The glass of the "oblique" cylinder itself is checked - there should also be no deposits left. Then reassembly is performed with the plug tightened. At the same time, you can evaluate the condition of the gasket, as over time it may need to be replaced.
Video: device and cleaning process of the "oblique" filter
Care must be taken when purchasing such a filter. All the advantages mentioned in the table are valid only for high-quality brass products (some may have an external shiny nickel-plated or oxidized coating). Unfortunately, there are a lot of cheap fakes made from silumin alloys on the market, and no one will undertake to guarantee the long-term operation of such a filter.
Cast iron "oblique" magnetic filters
Outwardly, such filters are very similar to the brass ones discussed above and, in general, pierce their device. The difference is in the material of manufacture: the body and cork are cast from cast iron. The filter element is the same cylindrical stainless steel mesh. The gasket between the cork and the body is usually paronite.
Cast iron "oblique" mud sump with magnetic block
However, the filtering block is supplemented with one more element. A rack is rigidly mounted along the axis of the plug, on which disk-shaped permanent magnets made of a corrosion-resistant material are located at a certain interval. Thus, filtration takes place in two directions - the mesh captures mechanical impurities, and the magnetic block - particles of metal and scale. The quality of cleaning the coolant only benefits from this.
The main characteristics of the produced cast-iron "oblique" magnetic filters:
Nominal passage, Du, mm | Pipe thread diameter | Construction height, mm | Construction length, mm | Turnkey hex size, S, mm | Metal mesh cell size, mm | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
H | H1 | L | L1 | ||||
25 | G1 | 80 | 140 | 120 | 200 | 32 | 1.2x1.2 |
32 | G 1¼ | 100 | 155 | 140 | 220 | 46 | 1.4x1.4 |
40 | G 1½ | 110 | 180 | 160 | 280 | 46 |
Please note that in the columns of the mounting dimensions, two values \u200b\u200bof the length and height are indicated. L and H are the usual installation values, and L1 and H1 - taking into account the obligatory leaving of the necessary space for the free removal of the plug with the stand and magnets during maintenance work.
Otherwise, the procedure for installing such filters in the system and the cleaning process do not differ from similar operations with "oblique" brass ones. At the same time, the rack with magnetic disks is also subjected to cleaning and washing.
Flanged magnetic mud filters
Such filters almost completely repeat the principle of operation of the cast-iron "oblique" ones - the difference is only in size. Flanged devices are usually installed on pipes from G 2 and above.
Instead of a threaded plug, there is also a flange-type plug. It often has a place for a drain hole, closed with a plug, allowing from time to time to drain the sludge and flush without resorting to removing the entire plug.
Characteristics of flanged magnetic filters
Nominal passage, Du, mm | Construction dimensions of products | Flange bolt hole diameter, d, mm | Number of bolt holes on the flange, n, pcs | Grid cell size, mm | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
height, mm | length, mm | ||||||
H | H1 | L | L1 | ||||
50 | 140 | 200 | 230 | 280 | 18 | 4 | 1.4x1.4 |
65 | 165 | 250 | 290 | 355 | 18 | 4 | |
80 | 195 | 275 | 310 | 385 | 18 | 8 | |
100 | 215 | 315 | 350 | 425 | 18 | 8 | |
150 | 320 | 490 | 480 | 645 | 22 | 8 | 2x2 |
200 | 415 | 630 | 650 | 890 | 22 | 12 |
When installing such filters, the installation length and height (L and H), and operational (L1 and H1) are also taken into account, taking into account the place for removing the plug and extracting the grid and magnetic block.
Subscriber filters sump-settlers
Among the most common filters installed on heating mains, in particular, in areas of their connection to intra-house networks, are the so-called subscriber filters. They can be produced in vertical or horizontal versions, but vertical is much more common. In such devices, the functions of a sump and mesh filtering of the liquid passed through them are combined.
Such mud filters are called "subscriber"
Such devices have a very high service life, are easy to maintain, and their solid internal volume reduces the frequency of regular preventive maintenance.
Structurally, they are a cylindrical body made of steel pipe(pos. 1). Branch pipes with a flange are welded into it on both sides - inlet (pos. 2) and outlet (pos. 3). The nominal diameter of the nozzles corresponds to the pipe into which the filter cuts.
The outlet pipe has a special design. It reaches approximately the central axis of the cylindrical body in length, and is muffled from the inside. On the section from the wall to the plug, holes with a diameter of 5 to 8 mm are drilled in its walls, so that their total area is not less than twice the cross-sectional area of the branch pipe. On top of these holes, a filter mesh (pos. 3) with cells of the appropriate size is laid.
A flange is welded along the lower edge of the body-pipe, to which a bottom-plug (item 5) is bolted. Typically, the plug provides the ability to install a drain cock (pos. 6) for regular cleaning of the cavity from accumulated dirt.
The filter cover is welded tightly, but it has a branch pipe or hole for mounting an air vent valve (item 7).
Characteristics of the line of vertical subscriber mud filters
Nominal passage, Du, mm | Mounting dimensions | Empty weight, kg | |
---|---|---|---|
height H, mm | length L, mm | ||
40 | 217 | 308 | 16.7 |
50 | 240 | 359 | 22.7 |
65 | 369 | 419 | 45 |
80 | 369 | 419 | 48.9 |
100 | 421 | 473 | 70 |
125 | 421 | 473 | 73 |
150 | 563 | 526 | 103.3 |
200 | 669 | 626 | 184 |
250 | 785 | 730 | 269 |
The coolant, passing through a similar filter, passes through two stages of purification. Large and medium particles precipitate under the action of gravitational and centrifugal forces, while smaller ones are already held on the grid.
Due to the simplicity and reliability of the design, the relatively low cost of production, and the large operational potential, such subscriber filters are widely used in house wiring of heating systems. In particular, they are an indispensable element of the elevator assembly.
What elevator unit heating systems?
The temperature and operating pressure of the coolant coming from the heating mains must be brought to certain values that correspond to the capabilities and needs of a particular in-house heating system. One of the simplest and most reliable solutions is the installation, the design and operation of which is described in a special publication of our portal.
Self-cleaning sump filter with additional air vent function
And in conclusion of the publication - an overview of another of the varieties of filters. These are modern self-flushing devices in a compact vertical case that do not take up much space and provide high-quality cleaning of the coolant from impurities.
Moreover, some models are equipped with an additional option - they allow you to separate (separate) dissolved gases and automatically remove them, preventing the well-known "scourge" of any heating system - its "airing", that is, the formation of air jams.
One of these filters is shown in the diagram:
Typically, the body of such a filter is a metal cylinder (pos. 1), with a coupling connection to the inlet (pos. 2) and outlet (pos. 3) pipes. A glass (pos. 6) is screwed to it from below for collecting sludge (pos. 7) - it can also be metal or plastic, including, on some models, transparent, which allows visual control of the filter condition. At the bottom, the glass ends with a tap (pos. 8) for cleaning and flushing the device.
Grids are installed inside the central part of the body. One of them, external, larger (pos. 4), acts as a separator for air and other gases dissolved in water. Bubbles accumulate and grow on it, which then, upon reaching a certain size, independently rise upwards under the influence of gravity.
The internal grid with small cells (pos. 5) is used to filter out solid particles from the coolant.
A unit for collecting separated air (pos. 9) with an automatic air removal system is screwed to the top of the housing. The design of the valve includes a float (pos. 10) connected by an actuator lever (pos. 11) to a needle valve (pos. 12). As air accumulates in the block, the float drops lower and lower, and reaching a certain level, opens the needle valve through the lever. The air escapes through the holes in the cover (pos. 13), the float rises again, and the valve closes.
The procedure for cleaning such filters from sludge has already been mentioned in the publication - just open the tap from below and wash the dirt with a stream of water. It is even better if it is possible to create a reverse flow of liquid for cleaning.
Some filters of this type are additionally equipped with magnetic inserts, which increases the cleaning efficiency. In addition, many models have built-in pressure gauges that show the fluid pressure at the inlet and outlet of the filter. A simple comparison of the readings of these devices can give a very clear picture of the degree of clogging of the filter elements with sludge (with a clean filter, the readings should be approximately equal), that is, signal the need for preventive maintenance.
Cleaning the filter of the heating system should be carried out periodically at least once a month in heating season. You ask how in closed system can dirt get in? Everything is very simple. The heating system needs periodic recharge, that is, we must add water to it to maintain a certain pressure in the system.
Along with new water, various contaminants can enter. The second source of pollution is the system itself. After all, the liquid in it constantly circulates thanks to the pump. Therefore, various particles can be washed out, for example, from the joints or during installation, they could get into pipes and debris. That is why the filter needs to be cleaned periodically.
How to clean the filter?
1. Shut off the water with valves in the place where the filter is installed.
2. We substitute the tray to drain the water and unscrew the filter plug with a key.
3. We take out the filter mesh and clean it with a brush. Then rinse under running water.
4. Insert the mesh back into the filter and tighten the plug with a wrench.
5. Open the previously closed valves.
Pollution that accumulates in the heating system of a private house adversely affects the efficiency of its functioning. For this reason, experts recommend regular flushing of pipes and radiators.
Blockages in heating systems - causes and signs of occurrence
The water used in modern heating systems as a heat carrier contains a number of chemical components. When they are affected high temperatures, there is a release of magnesium, calcium, iron and other elements in the form of small fractions. The resulting particles settle in batteries and pipes (on internal surfaces). As a result, over time, a layer of hard plaque appears. It complicates the circulation of the coolant, thereby reducing the efficiency of the system - the heating of the home becomes of poor quality. As a rule, plaque consists of 50–60% calcium and magnesium deposits, 20–30% iron oxides, 10–15% zinc oxide, sulfur, and copper.
It has been proven that with a total thickness of deposits of 7–9 mm, the quality of the functioning of the heat supply system is reduced by 40–50%. If the owner of the dwelling does not periodically clean the pipes and radiators, the level of their wear and tear at one "fine" moment will reach a critical point. This will result in the need for a complete system replacement.
The frequency of pipe cleaning depends on what material they are made of, in what temperature regime work, as well as other factors. In practice, the need to flush the heating system installed in a private house is determined by the following criteria:
- an increase in electricity consumption when using an electric boiler or fuel when using other types of heating units;
- uneven heating of batteries;
- extraneous sounds, noises during the start-up of the heat supply complex;
- increase the system warm-up time.
If you observe at least one of these signs, it makes sense to clean the radiators and pipes. This operation is performed in different ways. We will talk about them.
Flushing pipes and batteries with water-pulsing mixtures and biological products
You can clean the system in different ways. For these purposes, use:
- special biological preparations;
- water-pulsing mixture;
- water hammer technology;
- chemical compounds.
When using biological products, there is no need to turn off the heat supply system. This technique allows for short time clean pipes and radiators. The essence of the method is the addition of special compounds with a high level of biological activity to the system. The added biological product dissolves in water and circulates with it for some time, dissolving deposits of nickel, iron (rust) and other elements.
The compositions used do not destroy the inner surface of the pipes; from the point of view of ecology, they are completely safe. The technology is very simple and clear. But, unfortunately, an ordinary person, far from plumbing intricacies, is not always able to choose the right preparation for cleaning system elements made of different materials. In most cases, the home master is forced to seek the advice of specialists. Therefore, this technique is used in everyday life relatively rarely.
Self-administration of water-pulsing flushing is also rare. This technology is implemented using special equipment that allows you to fill heating pipes and batteries with a special liquid composition (compressed air plus water) and act on the system with active impulses. The latter quickly clean the lines from the inside, removing deposits of various origins, raids and rust. One procedure of water-pulse washing guarantees a significant increase in the level of heat transfer of any heating system.
Hydropercussion and chemical cleaning - when are they used?
Water hammer technology is indispensable for flushing old heating networks with cast-iron pipes and batteries that have been in operation for quite a long time (10 years or more). It is almost impossible to deal with blockages in such systems in other ways.
The water hammer technique is used for pipelines up to 60 meters long with a standard layout of water channels.
We note right away that the technology we are interested in is considered very labor-intensive. The principle of such cleaning is based on the impact of a shock wave of a certain force on the plaque. You can create the required impact using special pumping equipment. It is also necessary to stock up on a hose and special nozzles for supplying liquid to the pipeline. In order to qualitatively flush the heating system using the hydraulic shock method in a private house, the following steps should be performed:
- 1. We remove water from the pipeline.
- 2. We select the parts of the system that need to be cleaned.
- 3. We dismantle a piece of pipe in the chosen place.
- 4. We introduce a hose with a nozzle into the line, start the pump.
Pressurized water actively breaks up deposits. In this case, mechanical damage to the pipes (their inner walls) is not applied. Almost all (about 96–98%) of the shock wave is directed towards the water flow. After cleaning (the duration of the procedure is usually 50–60 minutes), it is necessary to remove all existing internal filters from the line, fill the heating system with water and rinse it thoroughly. This will remove the remnants of plaque.
If the pipeline is characterized by a complex configuration, it makes no sense to apply the water hammer technique. The flow of water will not be able to remove plaque in hard-to-reach areas of the network. In such situations, it is more reasonable to use chem. cleaning. To implement it with your own hands, in principle, is not difficult. The main thing is to choose the right cleaning composition. Some chemicals sold in specialized stores can destroy polymer and aluminum pipes. Always consult with professionals whether it is possible to use one or another composition for washing products from these materials. And read the manufacturer's instructions very carefully.
Chem. cleaning is carried out using a container for liquid and a pump. They must be connected to the pipeline through nozzles. Chemical flushing is suitable for removing plaque from the entire line, and only from its individual sections. The cleaning process itself is performed as follows:
- 1. Drain the water from the system.
- 2. Pour chemical into the container. compound.
- 3. Start the pumping equipment, the cleaning agent enters the line.
- 4. Wait 2.5-3 hours.
Cleaning is considered complete after deposits from the system no longer enter the liquid container. Important! After using chemicals, the pipeline must be flushed with plain water. This operation makes it possible to wash away the remnants of the used reagents. The final work is the pressing of the heat supply system and its tightness test.
Most of the pollution is formed in the sections of the highway that are located near the heating unit. These places are zones of the greatest thermal influence. They should be cleaned as often as possible. Ideally, flushing the heating network in a private dwelling should be done every 2-3 years. In reality, home craftsmen carry it out every 5-6 years. This is perfectly acceptable.
If the system has not been cleaned for 10-15 years, it is imperative to dismantle the heat exchangers of the heating unit and all installed batteries. Pipes do not need to be disassembled or removed. And the last. After flushing the pipeline, analyze the condition of the clamp and threaded fittings mounted on the main. Often they are also clogged with scale and rust. If deposits are minor, simply remove them. In cases where it is not possible to clean the fittings, replace them with new elements.